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“They sang and joked, and listened to the captain’s droll yarns of 
past experiences.’’ 




Paddling Under Palmettos 


BY 

ST. GEORGE RATHBORNE 

AUTHOR or 

“sunset ranch,” “canoe and campfire,” “dr, jack,” etc. 



NEW YORK 

STREET & SMITH 

PUBLISHERS 




THE LIBRARY OF 
QONGRESS, 
Two CoMed Received 

NOV. 4 1901 

COPVRIQHT ENTRY 
Cl 

CLASS CX/ XXa No. 

% 

COPY J. 


Copyright, 1901, 

By STREET & SMITH 


PERSONAL. 


To the comrades of one of my earliest Florida 
cruises, Dr. Charles A. Neide, formerly Secre- 
tary and Treasurer of the American Canoe Asso- 
ciation, and Capt. Ned Andrews, now a pineapple 
planter of Eden on Indian River, true disciples 
of the paddle, and cruisers from ''way back,*' 
this little volume is inscribed, in the hope that 
many of the scenes herein narrated may revive 
pleasant recollections of our cruising life on the 
Indian River and other waters of fair Florida. 

The Author. 

Mountainside, Westfield, N. J,, April, 1901. 







f 




CONTENTS. 


I — A Canoe Club Launch on the St. Johns . 

II — The Long Cruise Begun 

III — Archie Makes Fast to a 'Coon-Oyster Bar 

IV — On the Wonderful Indian River . 

V — In Which Our Cruisers Strike Game 

VI — Dragging Anchors .... 

VII — A Feather Roost in the Swamp 

VIII — Two Gallant Red Jackets Storm-Bound 

IX — A Deer Hunt on the St. Lucie. 

X — Eden at Last 

XI — Surrounded by Sharks .... 

XII— The Mosquito Fleet at Jupiter Light . 

XIII — How Ned Proved Equal to an Emergency 

XIV — The Outside Passage to Lake Worth . 


9 

20 

32 

43 

54 

65 

76 

88 

104 

126 

141 

154 

168 


ii CONTENTS, 

XV — Beaching the Sea Waif Through the Surf . 182 

XVI — Bruin Receives a Warm Reception . . 197 

XVII — Giant Fireflies in the Pine Woods . .212 

XVIII — How the Cruisers Went Night-Hunting . 227 

XIX — Alligator Camp 238 

XX — The Red Jackets in the Everglades . . 246 

XXI — A Lost Canoe Club 259 

XXII — Okeechobee, the Lonely Lake . . . 268 

XXIII — Good-by to the Cruisers . . . .281 


PADDLING UNDER PALMETTOS. 


CHAPTER I. 

A CANOE CLUB LAUNCH ON THE ST. JOHNS. 

Jacksonville, Florida ! 

The noon train had just come to a stop at the de- 
pot, and the usual rush and clamor began. 

Through the crowd a trio of young fellows forced 
their way, whose fresh, ruddy countenances told that 
they were from the North. 

“Which way, now, Ned?’' asked the tallest one, 
speaking to a more sturdy lad. 

“Bay street is just a square off. We’ll walk to 
the Carleton, get dinner, and then hunt up our boats. 
They were shipped by the new line from New York 
and must surely be here.” 

The day was a delightful one at the beginning of 
the year, and especially charming to those who had 
come from the cold North. It was more like balmy 
May than January. 


10 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

Walking along Bay street a dozen blocks, they 
saw much to attract their notice — many things that 
were strange to at least one of the party. 

Having reached the hotel, opposite the post office, 
they removed the dust of travel and were soon en- 
joying a solid repast. 

‘‘Make the most of it, boys. In a few days you’ll 
be introduced to a different style of living,” said 
Ned, sagely. 

His experience in Florida cruising was apt to 
prove valuable to the party, although the Eastern 
coast was new stamping ground for him, his pre- 
vious work having been in the neighborhood of 
Charlotte Harbor, down along the great gulf. 

Dinner over, the boys sauntered down Bay street 
until they saw on the corner the sign of the Clyde 
line of steamers. 

“Here we are, fellows,” said Archie, turning to the 
left. 

Inquiry at the office revealed the fact that the ca- 
noes had arrived three days before. 

“They lie out on the dock yonder,” said the 
agent. 

A rush was at once made for the boats. They 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 


1 1 

were new craft, built especially for this cruise, and 
the boys had never seen them up to this time. 

All were delighted with the results of an inspec- 
tion. 

Two of the boats were of the Mohican design and 
seemed to have all the requisites for cruising, being 
roomy and stanch withal. 

They were rigged with sails of a pattern known as 
the Mohican settee, with every appliance for reefing 
and labor-saving known to “ye modern builders of 
pleasure boats,” possessing also cruising sails of a 
more modest character. 

The third craft was not much different in so far as 
looks were concerned. Its hull was shapely and 
beautifully put together, but the rig was of a peculiar 
character. Later on we will have an opportunity to 
see how Archie made out with his boat, for there 
were several ideas of his own which the maker had 
ingrafted in the little vessel. 

Each canoe had a tent, double and single paddle, 
and other things such as prove necessary on a long 
trip like that contemplated by the daring young mar- 
iners. 

The boys had brought all their duffel in their 


12 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

trunks, and besides, each possessed a camp chest 
containing screw-top cans for different articles of 
food, two flamme force lamps for cooking, and the 
innumerable odds and ends that go with a cruising 
and camping outfit, and which are so familiar to 
those who have journeyed on river or lake that they 
need hardly be mentioned here. 

When their eyes had feasted upon the boats, that 
were to be their future homes for many days and 
nights to come, until they were satisfied, they re- 
placed the movable hatches and locked them. 

“Where away now?” asked Archie, who seemed 
to be more of a novice in Florida cruising than either 
of the others, although all of them had really seen 
considerable experience in the line of roughing it. 

Dick looked at the little silver watch he carried. 

“Three o’clock. I think we would be apt to find 
some of the boys at the boathouse.” 

“Let’s go, then.” 

“Wait a moment.” 

“What idea’s seized you now, Dick?” 

“I was thinking of our pets here. We’ve settled 
the charges, so that the company is no longer re- 
sponsible for their safety.” 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 13 

‘'You’ve hit it exactly,” cried Archie, with some 
show of feeling, for he had already fallen in love 
with the dandy product of a Canton boatbuilder’s 
handiwork. 

“Well, we’ve an invitation from the gentlemanly 
members of the Florida Canoe Club to make their 
boathouse our rendezvous while here.” 

“Yes.” 

“Then what’s to hinder getting the boats into the 
water and paddling down to the club?” 

“How’s the tide?” 

“On the ebb.” 

“Then it’s a go,” cried the others. 

They threw off their coats in a trice and set to 
work. Such activity promised well for the voyage, 
for determined fellows like these were bound to get 
along by hook or crook. 

In half an hour the three canoes were wedded to 
the waters of the St. Johns and all hatches had been 
stowed away. 

“Aboard with you and cast off,” said Dick. 

They paddled out upon the river. 

“Hurrah ! Isn’t this glorious after freezing in the 
North !” exclaimed Archie, enthusiastically. 


14 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

Poor fellow ! It was his first trip to Florida. 

The others looked at him with a smile, and then 
Dick winked in the direction of Ned. 

They had been there themselves. 

‘Wait !’’ said the former. 

Archie puzzled over that word, but he failed to 
grasp its meaning until the next morning. 

Then he knew. 

“Say, what’s all this?” exclaimed Ned, suddenly, 
as they were swiftly cleaving the dark waters of the 
St. Johns. 

“Halloo! What’s wrong?” from Dick. 

“Mark front,” said Ned, using a term with which 
he had grown familiar in his many duck shooting ex- 
periences. 

Looking down the river their eyes were pleased 
to see several small boats under full sail, beating up 
against a head-wind. 

“Canoes, as I live!” cried Archie. 

“A canoe race. I have it. We’re near the boat- 
house. The boys are having a race on the river. 
Listen — you can hear their friends cheering.” 

Sure enough, from a point just beyond the inter- 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 15 

vening boats came loud calls, mingled with the toot- 
ing of an agonizing fog horn. 

“Hurrah! Ida!s ahead! Good boy! Toot! toot!” 

“Not much. It’s the Louise. There she comes! 
Sound the trumpet, boy!” 

''Madeline wins again! She’s ’way ahead on this 
tack.” 

As the winning canoe brought up near the club- 
house our three cruisers appeared in view, and were 
greeted with a round of cheers. They felt at home 
at once, for the members of the Florida Canoe Club 
were gentlemen who could not do too much for 
them. 

Our little party expected to spend a week in Jack- 
sonville. 

They had accepted of numerous invitations to din- 
ner in this frame of mind. 

When the morrow came they changed their minds. 

“What in the world is that?” exclaimed Archie at 
midnight, sitting up in bed as he heard a whistle and 
howl outside, accompanied by a rushing sound as 
of an express train under full headway. 

Ned laughed. 


1 6 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

'That announces the arrival of an old friend/’ 

"An old what?” 

"An acquaintance whom you left behind — the 
north wind.” 

"Yes, it’s a norther. I expected it,” grunted 
Dick, tucking his head under the clothes, with a 
shiver. 

Archie wondered just then what there was about 
a double-reef breeze to discourage one. He learned 
something before he was done, and that name of 
"norther” became associated with stirring memories 
forever afterward. 

In the morning it was six below freezing! 

Things looked miserable. 

How different from the day before, when the mer- 
cury went up to eighty and all nature seemed joy- 
ous. 

Our friends were filled with animation, however, 
and went about their business immediately. 

It was cold work, and even the baby alligators in 
the windows of the curio stores seemed to have a 
half-frozen appearance. 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 17 

“Ugh, fellows! Let’s get out of this as soon as 
possible,” said Dick, with chattering teeth. 

“If this is Jacksonville in January I’d rather have 
stayed North,” declared Archie. 

Dick pointed down Ocean street. 

The grand river could be seen, its surface ruffled 
into white-caps by the strong wind. 

“You’d miss that up North. This is the grandest 
cruising State in the world,” he said, his enthusiasm 
once more overcoming the dejection brought about 
by the freezing atmosphere. 

“Yes, if you can manage to avoid break-bone 
fever, malaria, and the thousand and one ills that 
come from being on marshy water,” said Dick, 
gloomily. 

“But we came down here for warmth.” 

“Then we must strike south to-morrow.” 

“Can we be ready?” asked Archie. 

“Yes, and take advantage of the wind. These 
northers generally blow themselves out in three 
days, although I have known them to last for six. 
Toward the end there comes a beautiful sailing 
breeze, on which we must try and reach Palatka.” 


i8 Paddling Under Palmettos/ 

^‘Good! I’m with you.” 

They seemed mutually agreed to get farther south 
as speedily as possible. 

Although this same norther makes itself felt 
through the full length of Florida, down at the lower 
end of Indian River it is usually only a strong wind 
with the mercury at from forty to sixty degrees. 

They had a letter of introduction to the Burbridge 
Grocery Company from an officer of the A. C. A., 
and here they had their list filled out, it having 
been arranged beforehand. 

There were stores along their route, for a time 
at least, which saved them the necessity of overload- 
ing in the start. 

Three wide-awake young fellows, full of push and 
determination, can accomplish considerable in a 
short space of time, and when evening came they 
had transferred most of their traps to the canoes in 
the boathouse. 

In the morning they would doff the garb of civili- 
zation, don their regimentals, pack their stores, bid 
good-by to the jolly Pelicans, and be off. 

Unfortunately none of the Florida club could ac- 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 19 

company them, even a part of the way, as they had 
just returned from a cruise and camp-fire down as 
far as Titusville, on the Indian River. 

This was a thing to be regretted, as they were jolly 
fellows to keep a fire warm. 


20 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 


CHAPTER II. 

THE EONG CRUISE BEGUN. 

Morning showed no diminution in the force of the 
cold spell. 

Ice had formed in all the gutters, and the three 
canoe cruisers were determined to head the prows of 
their craft up the St. Johns without delay. 

This river is, I believe, the only one in the United 
States flowing directly north through the whole of 
its course, and our boys had much difficulty in head- 
ing south to believe they were not descending in- 
stead of ascending the grand river. 

It was noon ere everything was in readiness for a 
start. 

Dinner had been eaten with the captain and mate 
of the Pelicans, who waved them adieu from the 
float of the clubhouse as they struck out upon the 
stormy bosom of the mighty St. Johns. 

The wind being very fresh, they proceeded under 
double-reefed mainsail alone. 

It was exhilarating work, and dangerous withal. 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 21 

for the wind came fiercely at times, when there was 
more than usual exposure. 

Fortunately several things were in their favor, and 
these made their start propitious. 

There was much for Archie to see, being a 
stranger in a strange land; but just then his boat 
demanded his undivided attention. 

Four o’clock came and they followed the lead of 
Ned, who had changed his course and seemed to be 
heading for shore. 

‘‘Here’s our camping ground. We’d better take 
it when we can get it,” he called out, and thus show- 
ing the wisdom and philosophy of a veteran cruiser. 

Archie discovered why the little cove had been se- 
lected, for it was sheltered from the searching north 
wind by a heavy growth of live oaks growing on a 
hommock just beyond. 

Into this cove they ran, and as the water was ex- 
ceedingly shallow, all of them had to go overboard 
and pull their boats up on the sandy shore, a piece 
of “tracking” business with which Florida cruisers 
soon become familiar. 

Having made a landing, they immediately started 
into business, two of them constructing an excellent 


22 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

shelter tent with the sails of the boats and a piece of 
extra canvas carried to be used in case of an emer- 
gency, while Archie started a fire with pieces of dead 
live oak found in abundance, fed with fat, resinous 
pine. 

'‘What shall we have for supper?” asked Dick, as 
master of ceremonies. 

“Coffee for two. I’ll attend to that,” said Archie. 

“I can be counted on for a stew out of canned 
corned beef and Boston baked beans,” echoed Ned. 

“I’m hungry for mullet,” Dick said, wistfully, as 
he glanced out upon the water. 

Archie looked up. 

“I thought the fish wouldn’t bite here when a 
norther was on,” he said, quickly. 

“We don’t usually catch mullet with a hook, 
Archie. Look there — see ’em jump.” 

In the shallow waters of the cove small mullet 
were leaping out of the water, sometimes as high as 
two feet. 

“Try them, Dick,” said Ned, nodding his head. 

“I will.” 

Dick had on his rubber wading boots that came up 
to his hips. Archie watched him rummage in the 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 23 

hold of his canoe and finally draw out a net with lead 
weights attached. 

‘‘Ah ! I see — the Spanish cast-net,” he muttered. 

He had never seen one used and watched his com- 
panion with interest. 

It was just growing dusk, and the mullet had 
sought just such sheltered nooks in which to carry 
on their mysterious and apparently meaningless 
acrobatic feats. 

Dick waded out until the water was perhaps two 
feet deep, his careful eye noting the surface ahead 
for signs of a school. 

He held one of the leads between his teeth, and 
had gathered several loops of the remainder in his 
right hand to be released altogether. 

The round cast-net is universally used through the 
South. It is in two sizes, the larger or Spanish net 
being generally for fishermen and difficult to cast. 

Along the bottom are the leads. Leading-strings 
run from these up to a horn ring in the center of the 
net. 

It is cast with a peculiar rotary movement by the 
aid of arms, head, and body, falling flat and fully ex- 
tended upon the surface of the water, when the leads 


24 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

instantly sink, inclosing the unlucky fish with the 
net. 

The heavy cord attached to the leading-strings is 
then drawn quickly, the net assumes the manner of a 
purse, and the fish are safe. 

It requires some practice to cast successfully, but 
later on, when opportunities were plentiful, Archie 
took a few lessons from his companions, who were 
proficient in the art, and learned to do the thing 
with credit. 

After many casts, about two dozen small mullet 
yielded to Dick’s prowess. These he cleaned and 
prepared for the pan. 

Several pieces of fat salt pork were tried out in the 
frying pan first of all, after which he rolled each fish 
in cracker crumbs and dropped them into the pan. 
when a tremendous sputtering began. 

The boys declared the supper fit for a king, when 
the small mullet, browned and crisp, had utterly van- 
ished. 

When it was over they took the tin platters and 
cups, filled them with wet sand, rubbed this with 
the gray moss that hung from the live oaks and cy- 
press trees, and had the dishes cleaned in a trice. 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 25 

The wind still blew heavily from a point almost 
due north, and they prepared to pass the night as 
comfortably as possible. 

All was warm and snug under their shelter, though 
the pungent smoke from the camp-fire persisted in 
entering to some extent. 

Tired with the day’s labor, they soon rolled them- 
selves up in their blankets for sleep. 

It was their first night out. 

Besides the roaring of the wind through the 
branches of the trees, few other sounds could be 
heard, but once when Archie awoke he caught the 
weird hooting of an owl near by and smiled at the 
familiar cry. 

Morning broke clear and sunny, but the norther 
still held full sway. 

Around the camp-fire they studied Ned’s charts of 
the Government Geodetic Coast Survey — of which 
he carried a full assortment — and it had been decided 
that they were some thirty-two miles above Jackson- 
ville, having made wonderfully quick time, consid- 
ering the disadvantages under which they had la- 
bored. 


26 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

An early breakfast and they were afloat once more 
upon the river. 

Up to noon everything worked well, and they had 
made good progress. Then a halt was declared in 
order to make a pot of coffee and eat lunch, for all 
had by this time become thoroughly chilled. 

They had just finished the frugal repast when Ned 
made a discovery — there was an orange grove back 
of them, and of course a house. 

Archie was sent to procure a supply of the golden 
globes for immediate consumption. 

Some thought caused him to take his paddle along 
— perhaps he had a vague idea that a pole would be 
necessary in order to knock the oranges down. 
However that may be, he was ere long glad of such 
an available weapon. 

A couple of savage little curs assailed him, and 
it was only by alternately knocking over first one 
and then the other with the canoeist’s best friend — 
his paddle — that he kept the small fiends at bay until 
a “Cracker,” or native, ran out of the cabin and put 
his assailants to flight. 

As Archie yearned for oranges and the Cracker 
was sadly in need of funds, they soon struck a bar- 






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“The little fleet was tinder way at one o’clock, and skimming along 
over the white-capped waves of the majestic St. Johns.’’ See page 27, 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 27 

gain, and the pilgrim returned laden down with the 
fruits of his victory, and proud to show the marks of 
the dogs’ teeth upon his spruce blade. 

It was the first adventure of the cruise. 

The little fleet was under way at one o’clock, and 
skimming along over the white-capped waves of the 
majestic St. Johns, with Ned in the van and Archie 
bringing up the rear, he being somewhat of a novice, 
although he had sailed before and was willing to fol- 
low where his comrades led as long as he could keep 
his snug craft right side up. 

Let us give what few particulars are necessary 
here and be done with it, as much of a more inter- 
esting nature remains to be told. 

These three young fellows constituted the canoe 
club of a town in New York State not a great dis- 
tance from Lake George. 

They were known as the Red Jackets, in honor of 
that famous old Indian orator of the Six Nations. 

Upon their sails as a totem they had stitched a 
life-like representation of the head of a red fox. 

Ned was captain, Dick the mate, and Archie the 
balance of the club, honors which his broad shoul- 


28 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

ders willingly bore and over which he joked at sun- 
dry times. 

Each man was known at times by the name of his 
dainty craft. 

That of the captain had painted on each side of the 
bow the word Sachem. 

Dick called his canoe Bet, while Archie had gone 
further and named his the Sea Waif, though as yet 
it had never been used upon the ocean. 

Thus let them be known to the end of the chap- 
ter. 

Their cargo it would be hard to describe in detail, 
but by glancing at the inventory of the last-named 
boat it can be seen what each of them was provided 
with. 

First there was a clothes-bag made of waterproof 
material, in which all extra clothing, such as a suit 
of woolen garments, flannel shirt, socks, etc., were 
kept from dampness. Then came a rubber blanket. 

Next to these was the boat tent, made of striped 
awning goods, presumed to be waterproof, but also 
frequently deceiving the trusting youth who slept 
under its warrant. Alongside of this was the camp 
chest containing cans of groceries, such as tea, cof- 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 29 

fee, sugar, flour, cornmeal, oatmeal, hominy, etc. ; 
the canned goods, such as corn, succotash, dried 
beef, Boston baked beans, roast beef, corned beef, 
etc., lying in the bow, as far as possible, to serve as 
ballast. 

A little rack on one side under the deck held a 
double-barreled shotgun in a waterproof case. 

On the other side a similar rack held a heavy fish- 
ing rod. 

Then there were a few small culinary articles for 
use with the Hamme force alcohol lamps, the large 
frying pan, coffee pot, and kettle being divided 
among the three canoes, these to be used only when 
camping ashore — something that might occur only 
once in a while when they got far down in the Indian 
River country. 

Next came a small tin box of fishing tackle, some 
cigar boxes of shells for the gun, a lantern, % camp 
hatchet, or ax, hunting knife, and, of course, other 
things that were needed. 

Two of the boys had shotguns, while Dick carried 
a Winchester repeating rifle, of which he was very 
fond. 


30 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

All this while they had been making progress, and 
at dusk Palatka came in sight. 

“Let’s haul in here and make fast to one of the 
docks,” said Dick. 

“Agreed. Seventy-five miles sailing since yester- 
day noon in a cold breeze satisfies me,” returned 
Ned, as he headed for the city on the right. 

They rounded to beyond a wharf and dropped sail. 

At once preparations were made for the night, this 
being always the first thing thought of before even 
supper was considered. 

The painter was made fast to the dock, about ten 
or twelve feet away, and the three canoes were the 
same distance apart. 

It was easy to get from one to another, in case 
visiting was desired. Tents now went up, and when 
this task had been completed the night was com- 
ing on, so that dinner was the next consideration. 

Archie took a run to the post office for letters and 
to forward their mail. 

Then they settled down for a night of it, the wind 
increasing in force as the hours wore on. 

To a novice the position would have been a 
strange one, indeed, the small boats dancing the 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 31 

livelong night on the waves as the wind caught the 
bow-end of the tents. 

They swung a little, and it was determined that 
before they went to sleep each should throw out 
from the stern a little Chester folding anchor, two of 
which were a part of the complement of each boat. 

Archie slept fairly well considering the novelty of 
his position, for although not much of a canoe cruiser 
he had hunted and fished in many States, and roamed 
the wilds of Canada, camping out many a time, so 
that these things were not new to him. 


32 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 


CHAPTER III. 

ARCHIE MAKES EAST TO A 'COON-OYSTER BAR. 

Archie was the first to awaken, and, poking his 
head through the rear opening of his canoe tent, he 
saw that morning was at hand. 

‘‘Ahoy there, BetT 

“Hello! yourself. Sea Waif! What’s the row?” 

“Why, it’s time to get up!” 

A minute later Dick poked a cheery face out of 
his tent. 

“Another cold day ahead,” he prophesied, with a 
grimace. 

There was every indication of it, for the wind still 
hung in the north, and showed no inclination to 
move out of it. 

The canoeists were in no great hurry this day, for 
they had only a few miles to make to Rollston, where 
the boats were to be taken out of the water, put on 
the cars, and carried to the Halifax River, on the 
coast, a distance of some fifty miles. 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 33 

About ten o'clock they hoisted sail and left the 
bustling little city of Palatka behind. 

A bend in the river gave them every chance to 
try different methods of sailing, but, so far, the wind 
was fair and they found no fault to speak of in their 
boats. 

Rollston landing was reached. 

It was now noon, and the train would not leave 
until after three o’clock, so they concluded to have 
their lunch in the boats before taking them from the 
river. 

Then came the task of lifting the little vessels out 
and carrying them to a point where they could be 
put on the cars. 

As the baggage car would be too crowded with 
the three canoes, a flat-car was obtained, by means 
of which they could be well handled. This was at- 
tached to the rear of the train. 

“Here comes the steamboat,” said Dick, at last, 
pointing down the river. 

It was the Sylvester ^ making her daily trip to Pa- 
latka and this landing. Having deposited a few pas- 
sengers and some freight upon the staging, she 
turned and began her return trip to Jacksonville, 


34 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

‘‘All ready?’' asked the boy conductor of the train. 

“Yes — we can answer for this end of the line,” re- 
plied Dick, laughing. 

“Going to ride on the flat-car?” 

“Yes. We’re anxious about our boats.” 

“You’ll find it cold work.” 

“I guess we can stand it, thank you.” 

A toot of the whistle, and they were en route for 
the Halifax River. 

It was, indeed, a cold ride. 

As the sun sank lower they shivered in the chilly 
breeze, although the thick forests through which 
the new road ran screened them somewhat. They 
were all cheery, however, and with song and laugh- 
ter made the time pass. 

Night came on, but not darkness, for the moon 
was in her proudest state, and arose as the sun van- 
ished from view. 

The train stopped at a little station, just beyond 
which numerous fires coujd be seen in the woods, 
being made by the Italians who were working on the 
railroad. 

“We drop off half a mile below, at Tomoka Creek. 
The conductor says he will leave our car there until 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 35 

he goes back to-morrow. Here’s a key to the new 
storehouse on the other side of the creek, where we 
can sleep to-night, for it’s going to be cold.” 

This was luck, what Ned announced. Archie 
thought that if cruisers were treated as kindly every- 
where they would have little to complain of. He 
knew, however, that letters from their friends in 
Jacksonville had brought about these favors. 

Presently they rumbled across the bridge span- 
ning Tomoka Creek. The flat-car was left in front 
of the new little one-story storehouse, and the train 
went on to its destination. 

In this house the young voyagers made themselves 
comfortable, cooking a square meal. Then, while 
Ned made up his log by the light of a lantern and 
smoked his pipe, Archie and Dick went out for a 
walk and a tour of investigation. 

They found that a staging ran down to the water, 
and it would be easy work to launch their boats, re- 
lieved, as they were, from most of their contents. 

The flat-car, with its precious load, stood in the 
cold moonlight in front of the cabin, and they found 
it all right when they awoke in the morning. 

An early breakfast and then to work. One by 


36 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

one the canoes were carried down and wedded to 
the brackish waters of the creek, at this point some 
sixty feet in width. 

Then the cargoes were stowed, after the masts had 
been stepped. By noon all was ready, and the trio 
of adventurous cruisers ate a cold lunch. 

By this time the wind had slackened and came 
only in puffs along the creek, although they would 
evidently find more of it out upon the river when 
they reached that point. 

Archie had scared up a large bevy of quail among 
the palmettos near the landing, and greatly desired 
to get a crack at them, but forebore on account of 
the need for haste. 

They set sail. Progress was slow but sure, and, 
perhaps, in the end this pleases a canoeist as well 
as a rush, during which the fingers tingle with ex- 
citement. 

Winding this way and that and passing a little 
steam tug with a tow of logs, they finally reached 
the mouth of the creek about two o’clock. 

But for Ned’s charts they might have stuck in the 
mud a dozen times, for the channel here is just 
where a novice would never think of looking for it. 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 37 

Once upon the Halifax, with the wind dead aft, 
they sailed merrily on. As the afternoon grew 
apace the wind increased in strength until the white- 
caps were dancing along the surface. 

It was decided to head for Daytona, and about 
four o’clock they sighted that place. 

The white houses nestling in among the green 
trees proved a welcome sight. A long wharf jutted 
out — it being the universal custom to build them in 
this fashion, as the shores are too shallow to allow 
of a steamer coming close in. Indeed, in many 
places the writer has seen a square platform built out 
in the middle of the Indian River, and the St. Johns 
also, possibly half a mile from the shore, and from 
which passengers and freight were transferred to dry 
ground by sailboats. 

The canoes were secured again as on the previous 
night. It threatened rain now, though the wind 
continued to blow. 

They found Daytona quite a pretty place, though 
the water-front seemed at that time to be about the 
only desirable location. 

It is now considered the most charming town in 


38 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

all Florida, and its Ridgewood avenue under the 
hanging Spanish moss has become famous. 

In the night Archie could, for the first time, hear 
the roaring of the surf, and he realized that they 
were very close to Old Ocean. 

When morning came Dick had some changes to 
make in his boat, so that the cruisers did not leave 
Daytona until half-past ten. 

The wind was blowing fresh from the north and 
clouds covered the sky. Ned took the lead, as he 
carried the charts. 

The channel from this time on was obscure, islands 
appearing here and there; and to make a mistake 
necessitated tracking or paddling back again, if 
nothing more serious. 

Naturally, at a time like this three boats cannot 
always keep side by side. There were occasions 
when for half an hour the canoes were so close to- 
gether that the skippers, seated upon their decks 
with legs crossed and the dandy mast for a back sup- 
port, could converse without howling. Then, again, 
sudden gusts of wind would seem to affect one more 
than the others, and thus the boats became sepa- 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 39 

rated, though managing to keep within hail of each 
other by means of their skippers’ fog horns. 

Archie was so pleased to see his craft do so well 
that he hardly noticed how rapidly he had drawn 
ahead of the others until, when opposite Port 
Orange and trending in toward the peninsula shore 
a mile away, he was aroused from his reverie by 
hearing a tremendous blast from Ned’s fog horn — 
he knew it was Ned’s from a peculiar inflection at 
the end of the sound. 

Looking around, he saw that Ned was away over 
toward the Port Orange shore, standing up and wav- 
ing his arms. 

What did he mean ? 

Dick was about half-way between, but had now 
shifted his course, jibing and running across the 
wind in the direction of the main shore. 

Archie’s curiosity was aroused, but he could not 
make out what it all meant. 

He, too, altered his course. An island hid his 
companions from view, and he aimed to strike below 
this, so as to intercept them. 

These were good intentions, but they came too 
late. There was a sudden grating, grinding noise. 


40 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

and the Sea Waif came to a full stop, almost pitching 
her enterprising skipper into the river. 

Archie looked over the side in dismay. There was 
no trouble in learning the truth. The water was 
clear enough, and he could see the ugly bar of ’coon 
oysters rising almost to the surface, for the tide was 
at its ebb. 

Here was fun with a vengeance. 

To go back was impossible, and a mile of oyster 
bars lay between him and the channel on the other 
side of the river. 

He tried to work off the reef by using his paddle, 
with the sails still set, but made such poor progress 
and at such terrible chances to his boat’s planking 
that it had to be abandoned. 

There was only one other thing to do, this was to 
go overboard and ‘"track.” 

’Coon oysters grow in great clumps, and with the 
edges, sharp as knives almost, projecting upward, so 
it can be seen how formidable a task lies before the 
skipper of a small boat that has become lost among 
the shoals. 

Archie prepared for business by slipping on a pair 
of canvas shoes. 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 41 

Then in he went. The canoe, lightened by this 
act, was readily pulled over the bar. When deeper 
water was reached Archie clambered in again, think- 
ing he had got off pretty easily. 

Hardly had he seated himself before bang! and 
he was high up on another oyster reef. 

More tracking followed. This time he thought 
he would look out, but the wind caught his sail, and, 
ere he could prevent the catastrophe, he was for the 
third time brought to a sudden stoppage, with a ter- 
rible grinding noise that almost palsied him. 

This would never do. His boat, being only of 
light cedar, could not long stand such rough usage. 

Evidently he must devise some other means of es- 
cape or else stay where he was until the tide arose, 
which would not be for hours. 

First of all he realized that he had no use for 
either sail until free from these oyster beds — they 
only swept him on the next bar, so he stowed them 
out of the way. By this time he had also discovered 
that the bars ran out from the larboard shore and 
were some forty feet apart. Between them the 
water was from three to six feet deep. 

His only available course, therefore, was to take 


42 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

the paddle and cut across the river, keeping in this 
veritable canal. This he did as soon as he had 
backed the Sea Waif from her anchorage upon the 
oyster bar. 

It was easy enough — all Archie had to do was to 
keep a sharp lookout ahead, and when he saw the 
water becoming shallow, paddle away. 

He had been floundering about among the reefs 
for half an hour, as he learned when he consulted his 
timepiece, but was glad to have gotten out of the 
ugly mess with only some pieces of 'coon-oyster 
shells planted alongside his keel. 

Where were the others? He found that they had 
‘‘come to” below and were waiting for him ; so, after 
making sure that he was in the channel again, he 
hoisted sail and bore away for the rendezvous. 

This was Archie’s first experience with the little 
yet mighty ’coon oyster of the Florida reefs; but, I 
regret to say, it was not the last. 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 


43 


CHAPTER IV. 

ON THE WONDERTUT INDIAN RIVER. 

At two o’clock the cruisers drew up near the new 
lighthouse, and landing on the sand, proceeded to 
get something warm for dinner. 

Archie took advantage of the halt to change his 
wet clothes and warm himself, for, although the wind 
was now several points nearer the east than it had 
yet been, the air still felt chilly. 

Before them was a fine stretch of water some miles 
in width. A low island was covered with gulls. 
Man-of-war birds, gannets and hawks sailed in the 
sky, innumerable buzzards circled over the land, 
while ducks could be seen in countless numbers. 

“There’s a shark !” said Dick, pointing to a fin that 
cleft the water like a knife. 

“Yes, and here comes a school of porpoises in with 
the flood tide.” 

Archie watched them rolling by. A rowboat con^ 
taining a gentleman and a negro came up, they hav^ 
ing been fishing. 


44 Paddling Under Palmettos, 

“What luck?” asked Archie, with a sportsman’s 
friendly interest. 

He was shown scores of sheepshead caught upon 
the oyster bars and around the supports of an old 
wharf just below. The gentleman handed him a 
dozen or two small fiddler crabs. 

“Anchor about twenty feet from the shore,” he 
said, as his man urged the boat on. 

Archie was a born angler, if nothing else. He 
would rather fish than eat. So he pushed out in his 
craft and commenced fishing, with rare good luck. 

So fascinated was he with the sport that his com- 
panions could hardly get him to take some coffee 
and stew. He then had a dozen fair-sized sheeps- 
head in his boat. 

They determined to push on for New Smyrna, de- 
spite the heavy sea. 

Archie privately believed that this was no weather 
for canoes to be out in, but so long as the others led, 
he was bold enough to follow. 

Off they went, bowling along before a stiff 
nor’east breeze, fresh from the ocean. The water 
was salty and looked green. 

Before long, away off to port, they sighted some 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 45 

houses. Then the opening was seen — they were op- 
posite Mosquito Inlet. 

The breakers were rolling over the bar at the inlet, 
and the dainty canoes plunged like restive war 
horses as they caught the swell. 

It was really less than half a mile across, but the 
passage was rough for the small craft, and, in the 
midst of it, they came near having an accident. 

Archie suddenly heard Dick, just on his starboard 
quarter, call loudly : 

‘'Look out, Archie!” 

He was amazed to see the Bet heading directly for 
him, as though her skipper had gone suddenly mad 
and wished to run him down; or else his boat had 
become unmanageable. 

Archie maintained his presence of mind, and man- 
aged to catch the sharp bow of the Bet, deflecting 
the intruder f»om its course, so that she ran along- 
side, and no damage was done. 

“What’s the matter, Dick?” he exclaimed. 

The young skipper of the Bet pointed to his rud- 
der, and Archie saw that the trouble had been caused 
by one of the stanch cords working loose, thus ren- 
dering it next to impossible to steer. 


46 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

“Shall I take you in tow?” he asked. 

“Not if I even have to steer with a paddle; but I 
think I can lay back and hold the yoke until this run 
is out.” 

It had been a bad time for an accident, as the 
easterly breeze and the morning tide made the sea 
heavy. 

The inlet passed, they entered the more quiet 
waters of the old Hillsboro River. 

An old wreck was sighted, then a long island cov- 
ered with scrubby mangroves. This was called 
Sheepshead Cut. 

Just beyond it they caught sight of New Smyrna. 
A steam yacht, which had come in through the inlet 
ahead of them, was just making anchor half a mile 
above the place. 

Passing by this vessel, they rounded to at about 
half-past three and made all snug, tying fast to a 
long landing, as was their custom. 

They spent a day here, visiting the old ruins up 
the river and the orange groves near by. 

On the next morning they were ready to start 
south once more. Archie had meanwhile laid in a 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 47 

stock of sheepshead, and they had enjoyed a fish 
supper. 

The weather had become warmer, though the wind 
still blew heavily. 

They camped in among the trees the second night, 
where there was a splendid spot, their boats being 
hauled up on the sandy beach. 

There were two wells near by that had been made 
many years before, relics of the early settlers — some 
said the old Spanish indigo growers had dug them-^ 
and from these they laid in a store of fresh water. 
This latter is so hard to get in Florida cruising that 
an opportunity for laying in a stock is never to be 
neglected. 

For about eight miles they had easy work, Ned 
leading the way, with his charts. Then the wind 
became more boisterous from a few points out of 
the north. 

They came to a reach where the river made a ser- 
pentine bend — an ugly stretch. 

Here Ned tacked down the reach with Dick at his 
heels, but poor Archie was not so fortunate. 

First of all, he brought up on an oyster bar, the 
starboard shore being composed mainly of these 


48 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

ugly protuberances, upon which the contrary wind 
seemed bound to blow him. 

The more he paddled the worse became his sit- 
uation, for the treacherous shoals seemed all around 
him. 

By this time his two companions had vanished 
from view. Archie was all alone. He had worked 
like a trooper and made some progress, but much of 
the reach still lay before him. 

There was no help for it — overboard he went and 
began to lead his canoe like a refractory horse. 

When the water got too deep he would straddle 
the boat and make use of his sturdy paddle, the sails 
having long since come down as useless. 

{The situation was one he was likely never to for- 
get, and yet, at the time, it possessed little that was 
laughable. Grit won the day, and by alternate 
dragging and paddling, helped along by some tall 
grumbling, the end of the reach was gained. 

Here the wind proved favorable again. 

Archie brought his mainsail to bear, and, nar- 
rowly missing a bar, upon which he heard his keel 
grate as he passed, he joined his companions, who 

I 

had brought up below. 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 49 

His adventure had been a source of amusement 
for them. They did not find out until later that 
Archie’s boat was rigged so poorly that even the 
most experienced of canoeists would have found it 
hard to beat up against such a head-wind. 

Another reach was ahead where the same trouble 
might be expected. This time Dick hovered near, 
and seeing that poor Archie was about to get into 
distress again, kindly gave him a tow and bridged 
the difficulty. 

This was a kindness Archie never forgot. He was 
so wrought up by the strain of the past experience 
that small things assumed great proportions in his 
eyes. 

They now made furious time for some five or six 
miles, bringing up at Eldora. Here lived, at that 
time, where is now a thriving settlement, a genial 
fellow named Watson, who received them hospita- 
bly and did all in his power to make them com- 
fortable. 

They camped under his live oaks, ate his oranges 
and eggs and enjoyed his society. On the following 
day they walked over to the ocean beach and up 


50 Paddling Under Palmettos, 

some three miles to Turtle Mound, getting a variety 
of shells along the sand and watching the surf. 

Thus Sunday passed. 

The following day being wild and stormy, they 
agreed to lie by until the next morning, thinking it 
might be better for their small craft upon the broad 
Mosquito Lagoon, near the head of which they were 
now camped. 

Mr. Watson invited them to go over among the 
mangrove islands on the other side of the river and 
see if they could pick up a few ducks. 

The ride was a delightful one, Dick taking his 
canoe. After much wading through saw-grass and 
no little work with oars and paddle, they succeeded 
in bagging two pintail ducks, a blue-winged teal, a 
mallard, and three willet. 

Leaving the marshes, they returned to camp and 
arranged things in readiness for an early start in 
the morning. 

After breakfast the three canoes were put in com- 
mission, and away they went before a merry breeze 
that, in an hour, brought them to the ^'cut-off,’' a 
sort of canal made as a means of saving six miles of 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 51 

steamboating, but of little service to sailboats when 
working against a head wind. 

Passing through this, Mosquito Lagoon opened 
before them — a wide, solitary expanse of water, 
very shallow in the middle. 

They sailed down this, and at noon came to the 
Haulover Canal, through which they passed, stop- 
ping at the farther end to eat lunch near the great 
dredge. This was the new ^‘Haulover,” the old one 
being some miles farther south. 

The inner man satisfied, they again set sail, and 
now found themselves upon the broad, placid bosom 
of the wonderful and romantic Indian River, several 
miles broad at this point, and five below Titusville. 

With a light but agreeable wind they made fair 
progress, reaching Titusville some hours before sun- 
down of the same day. 

Here they found letters from home. The wind 
had died but entirely, so that the night seemed very 
still as, anchored to the long dock in their usual 
way, they sat in their boats close together for a con- 
sultation. 

Sounds were heard about them — the splash of the 
mullet, the croak of the mud hen, and the strange 


52 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

cry of the night heron, sweeping along the shore in 
search of food 

In the middle of the night they were aroused by 
the wash and odor of a steamer that had just come 
in from below. Dick declared she must have a 
cargo of carbolic acid aboard. 

Up at daybreak and disappointed to find it a dead 
calm, they proceeded to put in their time seeing 
Titusville. 

This was a small task and easily finished. 

‘‘Look out yonder. Isn’t that a breeze?” asked 
Archie, about nine o’clock. 

“Yes, and from the south, too,” returned Ned, 
ruefully. 

It was determined to make sail at once, and at 
least find some place where they could camp ashore. 

After working for some hours and only making 
about six miles, they drew up under the lee of a 
point. Wading ashore, they built a fire and had 
their supper here. Archie was for fishing, and, with 
the cast-net, succeeded in procuring some mullet for 
bait. 

With these he started in. 

Before ten minutes had gone by, the others heard 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 53 

him give a shout, and, looking out, saw that he was 
engaged in a tussle with a fish of huge proportions. 

He succeeded in getting the gaff-hook into it after 
much hard work. Upon towing his captive to the 
shore it proved to be a monster channel bass, or red- 
snapper, weighing twenty-three pounds. 

“Fun enough?” asked Dick, looking at the per- 
spiring fisherman. 

Archie tossed his head. 

“Well, if you call it fun to tow a log, perhaps IVe 
been having a jolly time ; but for my part I’d sooner 
hitch on to a two-pound, small-mouthed bass up 
North than one of these fellows, any day. But they 
eat well, and he was fairly game at times.” 

And Archie was ready to do his share of the work 
at mealtime. 

That night they again slept in their boats, the 
shore being sandy and with no good camping 
ground. 


54 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 


CHAPTER V. 

IN WHICH OUR CRUISERS STRIKE GAME. 

Archie poked his head out of his tent in the morn> 
ing to find Dick performing his ablutions from the 
stern of his canoe, his tent being different from the 
others and opening at the ends. 

“Halloo, Sea Waif!'’ was his salutation, in a 
cheery voice, as he rubbed his ruddy face. 

“What’s the prospect?” 

“Poor for progress — good for sport.” 

There was logic in his remarks, and Archie 
shrugged his shoulders as he looked out upon the 
tossing waters. At this point the Indian River was 
five miles wide, and the stiff south breeze kicked up 
quite a sea. 

It was resolved, however, to make a long point 
some three miles ahead, and a start soon showed 
poor Archie the folly of venturing out upon such 
rough water in his shell. 

The others also soon had enough of it, and crept 
up along the less troubled waters nearer the shore, 
using their paddles. 


Paddling Under Palmettos. [55 

Finally, all gathered in a little bight, and Dick 
went ashore after some krieker snipe, or pectoral 
sandpiper as they are also known, which he had seen 
feeding nearby. 

The bang of both barrels announced that he had 
got in his fell work. Presently he came in sight, 
and Archie, without looking up from the fire he was 
building among the rocks, called out: 

“How many?” 

“One.” 

Something shiny and beautifully marked fell be- 
fore Archie, and he gave a yell. 

“Is it dead?” he asked, hastily. 

“Well, these diamond rattlesnakes of Florida are 
gifted with a good many strange powers, but I doubt 
if even they can do any harm without a head.” 

It was a monstrous fellow, some five feet in length, 
and as thick through the body as a man’s thigh. 

“He disputed my passage, and it took two shots 
to convince him that I had the right of way. Like 
most men in an argument, he lost his head, and 
hence I won,” laughed Dick. 


'And the snipe?” 


56 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

“Oh ! I knew it was no use going after them. Be- 
sides, it’s going to rain.” 

Sure enough, the sprinkle became heavier, the 
thunder rolled, and the lightning flashed. 

“The fire can’t stand that. It’s lucky we’ve got 
our boat tents up. We’ll have to eat and sleep 
aboard to-night again,” said sage Ned. 

Each man cooked his own supper. 

A curious thing was noticed here. The early 
evening was dark, and with each flash of lightning 
there was a sudden rush of fish in the water, sound- 
ing like the whir of giant paddle wheels — indeed, the 
cove seemed to be fairly boiling. 

Morning showed a fair prospect. After a thunder 
storm, Dick said, came a “norther,” and it seemed 
as though he were correct, for the wind had shifted 
to the north, which was, of course, favorable. 

They got under way after breakfast, and reached 
Cocoa about ten o’clock, landing here for a supply 
of water, some oranges, and a few groceries. 

Again the three canoes cut the water under main- 
sail alone, keeping well together, in case of accident 

Merritt’s Island covered their left, and after pass- 
ing Rockledge they stood over to the other shore. 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 57 

as they would from this time on be better able to 
find good anchorage ground there. 

The mouth of Banana Creek was passed, and they 
kept down the coast line. All the while they could 
hear the booming of the surf, for, at times, only a 
stretch of a few hundred yards separated them from 
the ocean. 

Finally the wind whipped around to southeast and 
at last died out entirely, leaving the cruisers at a 
point of land nearly opposite Melbourne. The ca- 
noes were anchored north of the sand-spit and the 
crew waded ashore to cook supper. 

The cast-net was brought into requisition, and 
while Archie carried a lantern Ned used the net, cap- 
turing a mess of fair mullet. 

Then the fish-spear was rigged, a lantern, with a 
reflector made to throw light down into the water, 
brought into play, and for half an hour they had as 
much sport as one could wish prodding the finny 
denizens of the river. 

Tiring of it at length, they turned in. 

At midnight Archie awoke. What was that? 

''Sea Waif ahoy !” 

He poked his head out of the tent. 


58 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

“What’s up, Dick?” he demanded. 

“Wind’s whipped around to the north again. 
We’re on the wrong side of the sand-spit if it comes 
on a blow.” 

“Yes?” 

“Ned and I’ve been pow-wowing it over, and we 
think it best to paddle around.” 

“I’m with you, boys.” 

Paddling was found to be hard work with the 
tents up and the breeze freshening, so with one con- 
sent they stripped and went overboard, towing the 
craft across the sand-spit and into the shelter be- 
yond. 

The water proved pleasant and the bath enjoy- 
able, though it was a strange hour to take one. 

The morning brought a fresh breeze, northeast by 
north, and by half-past eight the canoe club had 
started on its Southern journey once more. 

On the previous day they had made twenty-three 
miles, and hoped to beat that record, but about half- 
past eleven the breeze died out, leaving them be- 
calmed opposite Grant’s Island. 

The best they could hope for now was to reach the 
St. Sebastian River, some few miles below, and when 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 59 

whistling for a breeze failed to effect their purpose, 
they took the paddles. 

Over the glassy sea they went. There were some 
very picturesque scenes along the shore which Dick 
expressed a wish to photograph, as he had a small 
camera with him. 

Just then, however, a nice little breeze sprang up 
from the east. 

Gladly they dropped their paddles and stretched 
every inch of sail. In this manner they drew near 
the very long pier extending out over the shoals 
from Mr. Gibson’s bluff property, and which had a 
couple of small, picturesque cottages built upon it. 
This pier marks the mouth of the St. Sebastian 
River, and it soon opened to their gaze. 

The breeze was favorable for ascending the river, 
and they went up some five miles, where they found 
a fair camping spot, though the mosquitoes and 
sandflies proved troublesome. 

Here they determined to rest a few days before re- 
suming the Southern journey. All of them were 
eager to indulge in sport. 

Deer signs could be seen along the bank, but the 


6o Paddling Under Palmettos. 

aspect of the country was rather disheartening for 
game. 

The air was filled with great birds, such as cor- 
morants, water-turkeys, hawks, buzzards, cranes, 
and pelicans, but these interested them very little 
now. 

They would have given much to have seen a flock 
of turkeys. 

Ducks they had shot in abundance, but Archie, 
fond as he was of the game, turned up his nose when 
it came to plucking them, for they had such a vil- 
lainous fishy smell that one must needs possess a 
strong stomach to go them. 

Ned finally showed him how easy it was to skin a 
duck or coot and thus avoid the fishy taste which 
seems to lie almost wholly just under the skin. 

On the following morning it was agreed that 
Archie should ’tend camp while the others went off 
into the woods to look for game. 

Archie was nothing loth, for he had heard much of 
the elusive bass of the St. Sebastian and St. Lucie 
Rivers, and was bent on giving them a turn. 

He did try. Fly baits were of no avail ; they might 
have done better in the evening. He experimented 


Paddling Under Palmettos, 6i 

with several things, and at last put on a perch 
caught with a landing net under the boats, when he 
had cast some crumbs overboard. 

The result was a strike. Archie thrilled at the 
first grand rush of a big bass, but after that he came 
in like a log. He weighed eight pounds and seemed 
to be nearly all mouth. Indeed, Archie, when he 
saw that cavern open as he drew him in, trembled 
lest the fish should swallow the boat. 

He found there was a difference between bass na- 
tive to the cold lakes of the North and these warm 
streams of the Sunny South. It was easy to poke 
his finger into the side of this fish. 

Archie fished no more. He was used to having 
br^ss show game to the last, and a fish of that size 
t ight to be ashamed to allow himself to be dragged 
to gaff in less than half an hour. He had gently 
wrestled with the bass four minutes. 

As fishing was played out, he thought he would 
paddle up tffe little stream a short way and see what 
lay beyond. The boats of his companions seemed 
safe where they were. 

Before he had passed the two bends just above, he 
had discovered a long, yellow water-moccasin, had 


62 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

caught sight of his first alligator — a small fellow 
about five feet in length, that slid into the water at 
his approach, being exceedingly wary — and had also 
seen several ’coons along the shore. 

^^Come — this is growing interesting,” he thought. 

Flocks of robins were to be met with, sometimes 
numbering many thousands. They congregate here 
and mate, when they go north a little later. 

Ah! what was that — another ’coon? No, Archie 
knew the bushy tail too well, and the spry move- 
ment. It was a dark fox squirrel — a good-sized 
fellow, too. 

Why not make sure of him? He would be good 
eating in the pot. 

A minute later the shotgun had spoken. It was a 
little Parker twelve-bore that Archie had used for 
years, duck and snipe shooting along Shinnecock 
Bay, Long Island, upon the Jersey marshes, in Ohio 
and Kentucky, and far away among the famous 
Canadian Muskoka Lakes. 

He knew fairly well how to handle it, and Mr. 
Squirrel went into the bag. This success induced 
him to look further, and he found a second fellow, 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 65 

at whom two shells were fired before he conde- 
scended to succumb. 

Satisfied with his little side hunt, Archie now 
turned his canoe down the stream and in five min- 
utes sighted the camp. 

The fire was still smoldering on the bluff, and the 
canoes seemed all right. 

He paddled carelessly along, and when near the 
landing-place broke out with a line from one of 
Dick’s favorite shanty songs: 

‘‘We’re rolling home from old Mohea!” 

Hardly had the words left his lips than he became 
aware of the fact that there was a great commotion 
aboard the Sachem. 

The canoe rocked violently, being drawn up just 
so far on the ground as to place her upon an uneven 
keel. 

Archie’s eyes opened wide with astonishment. 
Had the boys reached camp, and were trying to play 
a joke on him? The idea brought a smile to his 
lips. 

Perhaps, however, it was something of a more se- 
rious nature. A remnant of the old Seminole tribe" 
still lived in the Everglades — they had seen theii" 


64 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

hunting fires on the last two nights reflected in the 

sky. What if 

His cogitations were cut short. 

The rolling of the canoe grew more violent until 
it careened over to one side. Was that Ned fum- 
bling at the tent opening? 

^'Sachem, ahoy, there !” he shouted, cheerily. 

There was a more confused movement and then 
a black object landed with a splash in the shallow 
water. Archie gave a whoop. It was not the first 
time he had seen a black bear upon its native heath. 
Instinctively he reached out his hand for his faithful 
little Parker. 



'‘The bear had by this time scrambled to the shore and offered a 
beautiful shot as he climbed the bluff.” See Page 65. 





Paddling Under Palmettos. 


65 


CHAPTER VI. 

DRAGGING ANCHORS. 

The situation was plain enough. Even at that 
moment of excitement he could grasp it. 

Urged on by hunger and seeing no human being 
about the camp, the bear had been nosing around 
until his keen scent had carried him to one of the 
two canoes. 

Here he had clambered over the side and had 
been busily engaged trying to devour the edible con- 
tents, when Archie’s shout had struck alarm to his 
guilty heart. 

Like all other thieves he was a coward, and his 
first motion had been toward escape, a feat that he 
found some trouble in accomplishing, having neg- 
lected to mark the spot where he entered the tented 
boat, the flap serving as a door being down. 

Archie reached for his gun. He forgot that it 
held charges of No. 6 shot. The bear had by this 
time scrambled to the shore and offered a beautiful 
shot as he climbed the little bluff. 

Both barrels were let fly. Bruin growled and 


66 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

turned half-around, as though disposed to resent 
such an insult as this. 

Archie slipped in two more shells, but when he 
raised his eyes to look for the bear, behold ! the lat- 
ter had vanished like dew in the morning. Discre- 
tion was better than valor. 

When Archie drew his boat up alongside the oth- 
ers, his first act was to dive down into one of his 
cartridge boxes and secure several buckshot shells. 

Two of these he slipped into his gun. 

Then he went ashore and climbed the bluff, but if 
he expected to see the bear sitting there on his 
haunches waiting for him he was mistaken. Bruin 
was more shrewd than that. 

Seeing no signs of the late thief, Archie went be- 
low to ascertain what damage had been done. 

He found a sorry mess in the Sachem, where the 
brute had knocked the lid from Ned’s camp chest 
and spread himself upon the provender. Archie 
firmly believed the bear had been about to open a 
can of baked beans with the can-opener when he 
was disturbed by the shout outside. 

He covered up the traces of the old wretch’s visit 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 67 

as well as he could and then climbed aboard his own 
craft again. 

Presently he heard the voices of the others return- 

itig. 

They soon came in sight. If he was looking to 
see them bearing a deer or even a wild turkey upon 
their shoulders, he was disappointed. 

Both Ned and Dick looked tired and mad. They 
scanned Archie’s face closely. 

“Where’s your game?” asked the latter, in the 
quizzical way usual to the party who stays at home 
to guard the camp. 

“Oh! we’ve left ’em all in a heap down on the 
bank of a creek. Too warm work toting ’em. Per- 
haps we can send a wagon down, or maybe you feel 
like going after ’em,” replied Ned. 

“Honest Injun, now ” 

“No honest Injun about it, Archie. We haven’t 
fired our guns since we left. Saw a few signs, but 
this is a poor country for game. The Seminoles 
have cleaned it out. But we did hear you pop away 
half a dozen times. What was up? Shooting at a 
mark, I reckon?” 

‘^No — bear!” Archie replied, nonchalantly. 


68 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

“A bear?” almost screamed the others. 
“Where?” 

''Right here in camp.’' 

"In your imagination, I reckon.” 

"Ned, do you know a bear’s tracks when you see 
them?” 

"Well, I ought to,” replied the other. 

"Look before you. What d’ye call that?” 

Ned bent down — then he uttered a grunt. 

"Bless me if he isn’t right, and they seem to have 
come up over the bluff. A bear has been down to 
drink. Where was he when you sighted him first, 
Archie?” 

"In the Sachem — turned skipper and cook.” 

The boys looked incredulous and Dick laughed. 

"If you don’t believe it look for yourselves,” con- 
tinued the camp guard. 

Presently various bitter denunciations from Ned 
attested that the mess in his canoe had convinced 
him that Archie spoke the truth. 

Nothing short of the story would satisfy them 
now, so Archie told it all, holding up the squirrels 
in proof. 

The hunters had about concluded that they did 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 


69 


not want to stay up the St. Sebastian longer, as the 
prospect for game was small, so it was concluded 
to leave on the next morning, providing the wind 
was favorable. 

Another poor night was passed. It was warm, 
and both sand flies and mosquitoes were trouble- 
some. 

Their bars of cheese-cloth came in very handy — 
indeed, they could not have existed well without 
them. 

When morning came it brought a welcome breeze 
from the west. 

As usual, when from this direction, it was puffy, 
but suited their purpose very well. Breakfast was 
cooked upon the shore. They had made a stew of 
the squirrels on the previous night, so that now they 
had fried bacon, hominy, and flapjacks, together 
with maple syrup and coffee. 

‘‘All hands on deck to make sail!” called Ned as 
the breakfast pans were disposed of. 

It took them only about five minutes to get under 
way, and they were soon moving down the river, 
which was nothing more than a deep creek at this 
point. 


70 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

The wind at times died away, so that they were 
some hours in reaching the mouth of the river. 

They found a nasty sea awaited them out on the 
Indian River, with the wind veering toward the 
south, so it was concluded to land. 

Some time was spent wandering about the planta- 
tions on the romantic-looking bluff that marks the 
southern shore of the St. Sebastian at its junction 
with the Indian River, and finally they determined to 
paddle down below the long pier in search of an an- 
chorage. 

This was found, and for once they were foolish 
enough to anchor in an exposed place with short 
cables. 

They never did it again. 

The afternoon was balmy; shielded as they were 
from the wind by the bluff that arose some ten feet, 
surmounted with cabbage palms, they even took a 
bath and enjoyed it. 

Archie had donned a straw hat coming down the 
St. Sebastian, as the sun’s rays were powerful, and 
his sailor comrades had jokingly declared that hat 
would bring some evil down upon them ; but Archie 
was stubborn and stuck to the hat. 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 71 

Alas ! the prophecy was fulfilled. 

At about ten o’clock, waking up, Archie looked 
out. It was a quiet night — ominously so, but he 
thought it lovely, not knowing the treacherous na- 
ture of this Florida country as well as did his two 
companions. 

He looked at the sky, and saw the stars shining 
brightly. The air was still balmy. All around could 
be heard the rush of the mullet as their enemies, the 
channel bass, cavallia and sea trout, chased them 
through the shallow water. 

From the water line came the croaking cry of that 
weird bird, the night heron, and an owl solemnly be- 
moaned his sad lot from one of the dead live oaks 
and cypress trees in the potato field beyond the bank 
of the stream. 

Archie yawned and crept back to his blanket, fall- 
ing asleep almost instantly. 

It was about midnight when he was aroused by a 
dull, roaring noise that came sweeping down the 
river, and sounded like the onrush of a freight train. 

Startled, he sat up. 

At that moment the boat began to heave to and 
fro violently, and the tent to wabble about in a ter- 


72 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

rific manner. No need to tell Archie now what was 
the matter, while these fearful noises were singing 
about his ears like mad hornets. 

A terrific ‘‘norther” had swept down upon them 
like a thunderbolt from a clear sky. Already, as he 
sprang for the bow, he could feel the little boat drag- 
ging her anchor, which, with a short cable, had no 
grip upon the sandy bottom. 

He tore loose the end of the tent and looked out. 

Around him all was inky blackness. The wind 
was howling like a pack of demons let loose as it 
surged through the tall palmettos that, standing 
upon the river bank, were outlined against the sky. 

Overhead it was ominously gray — the stars had 
vanished. 

Archie saw that he was being swept along with 
almost race-horse speed. He fancied he heard his 
companions shouting, but the clamor of the storm 
drowned their words. 

Instantly he let out all the cable there was at- 
tached to his anchor — about fifty feet — but it was 
of no avail, the tent catching the terrific wind like a 
sail. Then he snatched up his second anchor, or 
left bower, rigged it, and cast it off the starboard 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 73 

bow, paying out that cable and fastening it to the 
mainmast. 

Still his progress was unchecked — the anchors 
would not take hold. He could see the palm trees 
apparently gliding past. It was raining now, and 
Archie thought the deuce was to pay. 

Ah! what was that? His keel grated on the 
sand. This was a chance to draw ashore — no tell- 
ing what might happen if he passed beyond the point 
near which he now found himself. 

Without another thought than of saving his boat 
as well as himself, he immediately sprang overboard. 
The water was only to his knees, but already the 
waves were sweeping along in rapid succession, and 
each one arose nearly to his hips. 

Through the darkness and rain he dragged his ca- 
noe in to shore. 

Here fortune favored him, for he found a tree 
that had fallen into the water, and behind this he 
moored his boat. 

, Then he crept in to put on his vest, and begun 
to shiver in the chilly blast, wet with spray as he 
found himself. The tent was flapping so wildly 
from his tearing the fastenings loose, that he 


74 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

thought it best to cut it down and secure it over the 
cockpit in lieu of a hatch. 

What of his companions? Old cruisers as they 
were should have been equal to such an emergency 
and early surmounted the difficulty. 

Looking out and up the coast line, he saw a light 
that could only come from the tent of a canoe, and 
determined to ascertain how they had fared. Archie 
waded ashore and stumbled along the little beach 
until he reached the light. 

The Sachem had come ashore, and veteran Ned 
was busy lifting her out so that she would not pound 
against the rocks. 

‘‘Whereas Dick?” 

“Here,” said a voice, as a water-logged individual 
arose out of the waves, and Dick’s jolly face ap- 
peared in view. “Got an extra cable, Ned?” 

“Yes. In the boat, back of the mess chest.” 

“Tell you why later. Befs all right.” 

And as he seized the rope Dick vanished in the 
gloom, wading out into the rolling waves. 

After a little the others saw a light on the water, 
and they knew that Bet was riding the storm. 

When Dick appeared in the morning he told of his 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 75 

peculiar adventure. The Sachem had swung around, 
narrowly escaping a collision with his boat, which 
dragged anchor more slowly than the rest. 

Dick, finding he could not make the anchor hold, 
had leaped overboard up to his waist, in order to do 
something more radical. 

As luck would have it, his foot struck a sub- 
merged stake. Quick as thought he had whipped 
his cable around it and then gone ashore as before 
stated. 

Archie crept back to his boat, and with Ned’s 
help anchored the Sea Waif out so that she could not 
pound against the rocks. Then he crept under the 
blankets, and held the tent-cover down for at least 
five mortal hours, the longest he ever spent. 

It was a night to be remembered. 


76 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 


CHAPTER VII. 

A FEATHER ROOST IN THE SWAMP. 

Archie was shivering part of the time, for, be it 
remembered, he had three times been in the water, 
not to speak of the rain and spray that dashed over 
him when every wave that came rolling along would 
strike the Sea Waif on her starboard bow with a 
bang and then splash over the tent-hatch, while the 
wind at times tried hard to tear the covering loose. 

Wearied and cold, he determined to go ashore, 
and, climbing the bank, see if a fire could be started, 
as daylight was not far off. 

As he made his way along with some dry clothes 
in his hand he saw a few sparks shoot heavenward, 
and, pulling himself up the bank by means of some 
roots, found Ned toasting his shins before a small 
fire. 

Morning came. They were all full of talk about 
the night’s mishaps, and the two old cruisers 
thought they had the laugh on Archie for his scare, 
but he secretly believed that when the rush of the 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 


77 


norther burst upon them and they realized that they 
dragged anchor, these selfsame veterans felt in any- 
thing but a laughing humor — at least his recollec- 
tion favored such a theory. 

The wind howled all day, although the sky was 
perfectly clear. Dick and Archie walked down to 
the Sebastian post office, which was also the general 
store. Sebastian had about three houses, with the 
inevitable steamboat pier jutting out into the river. 

One of the postmaster’s boats, a skipjack, had 
torn loose from her moorings in the gale and could 
be seen half a mile down the river, where she had 
become fast again, riding the waves, buoyantly 
enough for a castaway. 

That night the boys determined to sleep ashore, 
and passed the hours of darkness comfortably 
enough. 

It was decided to move on the next day, and ride 
out the end of the norther. 

About noon they bade farewell to St. Sebastian 
and the scene of their midnight revel. 

The wind held out until they were well in the 
Narrows, when it began to die out; still they 
floated on the rest of the afternoon with the tide, 


78 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

which was on the ebb, and passing out of the Indian 
River Inlet. 

A wonderful echo was discovered by Ned, which 
repeated a whole line, or a long tra-la-la on his horn 
as plainly as it was given. He secured all the solid 
amusement possible out of it, and so like a human 
voice did it appear that Archie almost expected to 
hear an indignant answer to some of the humorous 
questions Ned propounded. 

They met a sharpie, manned by half-a-dozen oys- 
termen, proceeding in a way common to the natives 
— by means of the setting-poles. 

The water being generally shallow, progress could 
be readily made in this way when the wind failed, 
though, of course, our lads, with their paddles, had 
a better means of getting on — a spruce wind. 

At last it was determined to enter a cove Dick 
found upon his charts, where they prepared to pass 
the night. 

Mangroves surrounded them, flocks of pelicans 
and cranes flew overhead, aiming for certain roosts 
near by, and Archie saw numerous egrets pass by 
with considerable envy, for he desired a skin, and 
was determined to get one. 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 79 

Presently his gun sounded and a large, white bird 
fell with a splash into the water of the cove. Archie 
had bagged his game, and was satisfied. 

It was a lovely evening, with the sky clear, and 
a gentle zephyr breathing upon the face of the water. 

Some oystermen rowed by out in the Narrows, 
trolling a song, and soon they were followed by three 
fishermen in a large boat bound for Indian River 
Inlet, miles below. 

Supper was eaten just as the balmy night and the 
carnivorous mosquitoes closed around them. Pipes 
were brought into play to keep the tents clear, and 
the little bars of cheese-cloth arranged so as to ex- 
clude the pests. 

Archie *had just finished his log and was thinking 
of paying a visit to his comrades, when 

‘‘Ahoy, Sea WaifT 

“Well?” 

“What are you doing?” 

“Just finished my log and meditating.” 

“Pve got a proposal.” 

Archie poked his head out of the canoe. 

“Glad to hear it.” 


8o Paddling Under Palmettos. 

'There’s a 'roost’ over in the swamp, and I 
thought you’d like to visit it.” 

"What’s a 'roost?”’ 

"You noticed that all the birds flying over us went 
to the north?” 

"Yes.” 

"Well, they congregate by the thousand in a cer- 
tain high patch of timber a quarter of a mile or so 
above. It’s a sight worth seeing.” 

"What says Ned?” 

"Oh! he’s not in the deal. He’s seen too many 
roosts to bother. If you’d like to go, say the word.” 

"I’m your rooster. What shall I do?” 

"Put on your wading-boots, see that your lantern 
is filled, and take your gun along and a variety of 
shells, for there’s no telling what kind of game we 
may run across in the swamp. That’s all.” 

"Ready in ten minutes.” 

Archie was true to his word. 

Dick crawled aboard the Sea Waif, and the canoe 
was pushed to the northern side of the cove. 

The tide was going out, but little earth could be 
found, only the strange roots of the mangroves, 
looking like the fingers of a man with the gout. 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 8i 

Over these they would have to make most of their 
trip. 

Both had lighted lanterns, for it was very dark 
in the trees. Before leaving they took their bear- 
ings and arranged a code of signals with Ned in case 
they should get into trouble. 

Then they set out. 

A strange sight to see two fellows in red flannel 
shirts working their way through that odd timber, 
carrying guns and lanterns. No doubt the owls 
stared and the ’coons looked down in wonder. 

They made slow progress. 

More than once Archie was sure he saw the sim 
uous folds of a snake vanishing from their path, but 
he said nothing, for once embarked in an enterprise 
he was bound to stick. 

Frequently he felt the hanging Spanish moss 
sweep against his cheek, and could not but shud- 
der at the thought of it being some vampire bat, 
such as he had read about in travelers’ tales of the 
Amazon country. 

Their surroundings became even more gloomy as 
they went deeper into the stretch of land existing be- 
tween the Indian River and old Mother Ocean. 


82 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

The feeble beating of the surf, that hollow, muf- 
fled sound, told them the tide was going out, for 
when the flood came in the waves sounded doubly 
sonorous. 

They soon found themselves in a swamp, and had 
to pick their way along in a very careful manner. 
Splashes here and there told of some reptile drop- 
ping down from cypress hummock into the water at 
their approach. 

Archie watched his companion nervously. 

There was no wavering on Dick’s part — he was an 
old woodsman; and, although he had never been 
here before, he had watched the flight of the great 
birds at sundown and knew from infallible signs just 
where the ‘Toost” must be located. 

Presently the swamp seemed to end, or else they 
had come to an oasis in the heart of it, for the 
ground appeared, and with it some timber other 
than the everlasting mangroves. 

“We’re nearly there,” said Dick, breaking the 
silence that had fallen upon them. 

“Glad to hear it,” returned Archie, heartily. 

The skipper of the Bet was right — they were close 
upon the roost. 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 83 

Such a sight! Would Archie ever forget it as 
long as he lived? The trees were laden down with 
great birds, and in places broken branches lay upon 
the ground, which was covered with guano to the 
depth of many inches, showing that this had for 
years been a favorite resting rendezvous for this mul- 
titude of birds. 

They walked about surveying the scene as well as 
they could by the aid of their feeble lanterns. 

It was amazing, the number and variety of water- 
birds here congregated, for they could discover 
herons and cranes, water-turkeys, buzzards, crows, 
egrets and others. Yes, they even saw upon the 
water of a small pond scores of pelicans that seemed 
to appreciate company. 

Dick pointed out the birds. 

“I see a sand-hill crane that Tm bound to have. 
They eat as well as turkey, and are seldom found ex- 
cept in a solitary state. Listen and watch.’’ 

He glanced along the barrel of his gun and then 
came the discharge. A great commotion ensued, 
and yet few birds left their roosts. Thousands 
might have been slaughtered by plumage hunters. 


84 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

The wretched sand-hill crane fell and Archie gath- 
ered him in. 

“I don’t call that bird a crane,” said Dick, when 
the commotion had ceased, ‘'though he goes by such 
a name. He don’t live on frogs and fish like the 
rest of the tribe, but lays on to grain most of the 
time. That’s what makes his flesh so good. That’s 
why we hear his cry back from the water in the 
wood tangle. To me he is a plover, or the prince 
of the curlew tribe. I’m only astonished to find 
him here.” 

They found no mate to him. 

After shooting a few more birds to obtain the 
feathers and skins, among which were one scarlet 
ibis, a white ibis, and an egret, they thought about 
returning. 

This was easier said than done, and when they had 
floundered about for some time even honest Dick 
was forced to admit the solemn truth. 

They were lost ! 

Ordinarily this might mean nothing, but a night 
in this swamp was anything but a pleasure to antici- 
pate. ^ 

Dick remained cool, however, for he wished to 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 85 

show Archie, whom he knew to be something of a 
woodsman, that such a little thing did not discom- 
pose him. 

Under all circumstances the first thing must be to 
keep from becoming excited, and determine what 
was the best course. 

^‘As near as I can tell the camp lies in that direc- 
tion from which we can hear the distant booming of 
the surf. The wind is light and dead east, as you 
can tell from the stars. Yes, the camp must lie in 
that direction. What do you think, Archie 

‘T would put it a point farther west ; say, straight 
toward that blazing star.” 

“Glad to hear you speak so positively. Now, Til 
give Ned the signal, and both listen for all we’re 
worth.” 

He took out a revolver and fired three shots in the 
air, with an interval of five seconds between each. 

Hark ! Was that a shout ? 

“Ahoy!” it came. “Ahoy! ahoy!” 

Dick looked at his companion. 

“Archie, you were right. That voice seemed to 
come directly from the blazing star. The camp lies 
there and is close by.” 


86 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

Then he raised his voice and answered Ned's hail. 

In ten minutes they were upon the edge of the lit- 
tle cove where the three canoes had put up for the 
night. 

“I was lying here watching the sky and thinking 
how bright the Indian hunting-fires were to-night 
to make such a glow in the western heavens, when I 
heard your signal and answered it. If I hadn't got 
a reply I'd have fired the rifle," said Ned, after he 
had tossed over their trophies with the air of one 
who had seen much of this sort of thing. 

“Why do the Indians have hunting-fires in the 
night?" asked Archie, who believed in gaining in- 
formation even at the expense of exposing his ig- 
norance. 

“They come up from the Everglades on a grand 
hunt, warriors, squaws and boys. The squaws and 
boys start a fire from one given point to another, ac- 
cording to the wind, and watch the blaze, while the 
men do all the hunting. They hunt to windward of 
the fire, and, forming in line, chase the deer on un- 
til, hemmed in by the flames and their human ene- 
mies, the game is gathered in a small space, per- 
haps a patch of timber. From this point they are 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 87 

started one or two at a time, it may be, and killed. 
The Seminoles have become butchers, for they 
slaughter game for the sake of the hides now, which 
they sell for wyhomee.” 

^‘What’s that?” 

“The booze — whisky. I have known them to kill 
four hundred deer and about a hundred bear within a 
short distance of where we are camped, over on the 
main land, where their fires now burn.” 

“The scamps ! No wonder game is getting scarce 
in Florida. What a waste — and to think IVe never 
even had a chance to get my first deer !” said Archie, 
indignantly. 

“Your time will soon come, my boy,” laughed 
Ned. 


88 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 


CHAPTER VIII. 

TWO GATI^ANT RED JACKETS STORMBOUND. 

The weather was now clear and warm and very en- 
joyable. 

When breakfast had been duly disposed of, it was 
found that there was a failing north zephyr, which 
they were anxious to take advantage of. Not long 
after starting they found themselves becalmed, and 
there was nothing to do but await the coming of a 
breeze. 

Dick had broken his patent Radix brass center- 
board in some way, and he was anxious to reach 
Eden in order to fix it. 

As the case now stood, his boat was almost help- 
less in a head sea and wind, as she could not eat her 
way into the teeth of the wind as ordinarily. 

So there now existed a delightful uncertainty as 
to the direction from whence the breeze would 
spring, for there was certainly wind in the sky. 

“Southeast !” grunted Dick, in disgust, as he 
pointed to a slight ripple on the otherwise smooth 
water in that quarter. 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 89 

And southeast it was. 

In ten minutes a fine breeze was on and the boats 
began to show their merits. 

Ned had to hold the Sachem in like a restive steed. 
He drew near the others. 

“What shall I do, Dick? This is Thursday, you 
know, and we agreed to meet the old captain at 
Eden on Sunday. He won’t wait, and if this breeze 
holds out three days, as it gives indications of doing, 
you can’t get there on time.” 

“Would you go on alone?” 

“If Archie and yourself don’t mind. Half our 
sport would be lost should we miss the jolly old cap- 
tain.” 

“Bon voyage, old fellows!” called out Archie. 
“Dick and I’ll stick closer than brothers. We’ll pull 
into Eden some time if we have to wade there.” 

Ned was off, the beautiful little Sachem riding the 
water like a duck and making fine headway. 

Dick and Archie breasted the seas on long and 
short legs until one o’clock. By this time they had 
grown tired of tacking, and it proved wet work, too. 

Ned had passed out of sight around a head point, 
and was bound to reach St. Lucie by night, if not do 


90 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

better. Another day would bring him to Captain 
Richards’ place at Eden. 

The wind was very boisterous and the sea held 
high carnival, for they were now about the head of 
St. Lucie Sound, which is some miles across. 

At Dick’s advice they made one more short leg 
across, losing ground, and anchored under the lee 
of the eastern shore. 

Here they proceeded to cook dinner, and it was 
one bright feature in their eventful cruise, that no 
matter what trouble they passed through they were 
always ready to do full justice to their meals. 

When this important duty had been concluded and 
both of the adventurous cruisers were feeling pretty 
bold, Dick suggested that they tackle the stiff breeze 
again for a spurt. 

They had little or no shelter where they had 
stopped should the wind whip around to the south- 
west, and it was apt to do just that at any time. 

Archie looked out on the heaving sea, but said 
nothing, though he thought a great deal. He would 
have preferred creeping down the coast line in quiet 
water, using his paddle moderately, until a good 
spot was found for the night. 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 91 

Dick threw his dandy forward, stowing away the 
mainmast and sail. Then they started out. 

Archie could outpoint the Bet, now that the latter 
had a crippled centerboard, and neither of them 
made much headway in the heavy sea. 

It was pretty dusty out in the middle, and every 
nerve was strained to the utmost tension as the lit- 
tle cockle-shells dashed on, making good time but 
poor progress south. 

Between one and two hours used them up, and 
even then they had only made a mile, but Dick ac- 
complished what he had set out to perform. 

His chart had shown him a cove on the eastern 
shore. 

They made it. 

Here they were beautifully screened from every- 
thing but a west wind, and even that in shallow 
water would not cause them much inconvenience. 

The cove was not very large. At the upper end 
was a little creek, which had a turtle pen in it, used 
by the turtlers to keep their captives. 

Not a living soul did they see. 

Archie paddled around the point on a tour of in- 
vestigation, as well as to see if he could find oysters. 


92 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

In fifteen minutes he returned with a hundred fine 
ones, picked up by hand in the shallow water. They 
needed a little salt, but were fat and luscious, some 
being as large as the palm of the hand. 

Here Dick proved his right to the title of the oys- 
ter king. He said he ate fifty-seven raw, and the 
pyramid of shells under the canoe seemed to verify 
it. A dozen satisfied Archie, but he opened a tin 
cupful to fry for breakfast. 

They had only made about five miles that day, but 
hoped to do better on the morrow. 

Archie boiled a saucepan of rice, a favorite dish 
with him, and invited Dick over to help eat it ; but a 
woeful accident allowed the lantern to drop square 
into the kettle from the hook above in the tent, just 
after the condensed milk and sugar had been stirred 
ii:. 

There was a suspicious odor of kerosene about 
the feast, although Dick, who had not eaten any sup- 
per since punishing the oysters, declared he liked it. 

Archie was up at dawn and had finished his break- 
fast long before Dick. The wind arose gently in the 
east and gave promise of some weather. 

When Archie had packed his tent away and 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 93 

washed off the deck of his canoe he was ready to 
Start. 

As Dick, with the wisdom of an old cruiser, did 
not believe in hurrying at any time, Archie amused 
himself watching a fishhawk that sat on a rock out 
in the water anticipating his morning meal. 

He had not long to wait. 

As usual, the mullet were leaping about like acro- 
bats. Suddenly the hawk arose in the air, fluttered 
for a few seconds almost stationary, and then, dart- 
ing down like a flash of light, struck the water, not 
head first as the gulls and pelicans do, but in a way 
to fasten its claws into its victim. 

As the hawk arose, the skipper of the Sea Waif 
saw a fat mullet in its talons. But a shadow fell on 
the water, and, looking up, Archie saw that pirate of 
the air, the noble white-headed eagle, circling 
around, watching Mr. Hawk. 

In vain the hawk circled and climbed the air. He 
was steadily followed by the feathered robber until 
at length, to save himself, he was obliged to let the 
mullet fall. 

They were far up in the heavens to all appear- 
ances when this occurred. 


94 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

Archie heard a rushing sound, and then saw the 
lordly robber just over his head with the disputed 
fish in his possession, deliberately winging his way to 
an old dead tree on the shore near by. 

'‘Dick, I’m going to try for that old villain,” he 
said, hotly. 

Slipping a couple of buckshot cartridges into his 
gun, he took the paddle and crept along the shore 
line in his canoe. But the white-headed bird’s keen 
eye noticed him, and it left its perch ere he had 
reached the point he was aiming for. 

Archie snatched up his Parker and fired one bar- 
rel after the other. Some feathers fell, but the bird 
kept on. Probably one of the buckshot had passed 
through its wing. 

Dick announced himself ready at last, and Archie 
threw both sails to the gentle breeze. They could 
make fair enough progress while the wind remained 
in the east. 

They kept within a reasonable distance of the 
friendly east shore, but it was not long before Archie 
piled up on an oyster bar 

“I knew that was there. I could see the shoal,” 
said Dick, sagely, as he sailed past in deeper water. 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 95 

Archie made a laughing reply to the effect that he 
always liked to study the topography of the river 
bottom, and released his stranded craft easily enough 
by backing. 

In five minutes there was a grating sound. This 
time it was the Bet piled high on a shoal which her 
skipper did not see. 

He could not back water, because his broken cen- 
terboard prevented, so he had to push with might 
and main. 

After that they set over for the western shore, as 
the channel seemed to run there. Dick’s chart had 
come to an end with the last night’s camp in the 
cove, so that from this time on they must make 
guesswork of it. 

Until ten o’clock they made fine time, but about 
then the wind worked around to the same old quar- 
ter, southeast by south, and the sea became very 
heavy as they were passing Indian River Inlet. 

They made slow time at St. Lucie, but persisted, 
and came near being swamped more than once. At 
this point the sound was several miles across, and a 
sweeping wind made an ugly sea on the west shore. 


96 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 


When noon came they hauled in near a couple of 
turtlers’ cabins. 

Lunch was eaten and they put to sea again, but 
the wind was working so to the south that even 
hardy Dick confessed it was foolish to buck against 
it. Progress under such circumstances is dearly 
bought, and on the Indian River, especially, it pays 
to wait for a fair breeze. 

They anchored in the mud, but the prospect of 
spending the night in this exposed position was not 
very acceptable to one who liked solid comfort as 
much as Dick. 

A mile below, on the other shore, they saw what 
seemed to be a cove. 

*‘This is no canoe weather, Dick, and I don’t like 
the idea of sleeping here. We might go ashore, but 
my canoe bed is the most comfortable. What say?” 

‘T’d propose cutting across for that cove. This 
deuced wind may hold us for days, and we want to be 
comfortable.” 

'‘Well, if you say so, lead on. But please be care- 
ful.” 

'T think we can risk it with the dandy. Secure 
everything, for it’s wild enough out in the middle 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 


97 

for any Mohican or Red Jacket who ever sailed in 
a mosquito fleet. Is it a go?’’ 

‘‘Yes,” said the novice, boldly. 

Archie would not have backed out even had he 
known he was in for an upset in the middle of that 
turmoil of water. 

They made all safe. 

Dick started first, and was a quarter of the way 
across ere Archie headed the brave little Sea Waifs 
nose into the wild wind and sea. 

They fell off considerably to leeward, but that was 
to be expected under the circumstances. 

When the middle was gained Archie had shipped 
very little water, but it required no inconsiderable 
skill to meet each unusually heavy wave that came 
rolling on so that the canoe would plow into it Had 
one of them taken her squarely on the quarter there 
might have been some extraordinary excitement. 

Slowly but surely they crossed, and at length lost 
the sweep of the wind that came out of a large 
bayou, or pocket, ahead. 

Closer up to the shore it was gentle sailing. At 
four o’clock, exactly, they passed into the snug har- 


98 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

bor formed by the cove they had seen from across 
the sound. 

Here they dropped anchor, surrounded by man 
g^roves ; but no solid ground could be seen. 

Dick explored a sort of creek at the end of the 
cove, and reported a dead turtle, around which the 
buzzards were gathering. 

Putting on his wading-boots as evening drew 
near, Archie whipped the water with a white miller 
fly. Soon he had a small cavallia, and the next 
time a peculiar prize, with a stripe, that Dick pro- 
nounced a sergeant fish. 

So it went on. Fish seemed plenty, though none 
were of any great size. 

The mosquitoes were in evidence, too, and now 
they proved in an energetic way that they did not be- 
long to the harmless “blind” tribe. 

The captain of the Bet finished the supply of oys- 
ters brought along, and mourned because they had 
gotten beyond the immense oyster beds of the In- 
dian River, though a closer search might have re- 
vealed the bivalves near by. 

They had logged some thirteen miles that day, ac- 
cording to guesswork, and, being just in sight of St. 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 99 

Lucie’s white houses, they believed the settlement 
five miles away. 

This made Eden eleven miles away. 

Oh ! for a fair wind on the morrow. 

The sky in the west looked black, and the surf 
roared unusually loud. Were these indications of a 
storm? 

Archie looked out for the last time ere going to 
bed, and, finding things serene, turned in. 

It was a restless night; the canoe cramped him 
and seemed almost like a coffin, so that he was glad 
when morning came. There seemed to be no 
change in the aspect ; the wind came from the same 
quarter and the sea was just as heavy. 

Dick was for going on. 

Archie said nothing, but made ready, and let his 
comrade lead the way. They kept rather close to 
the shore, and made a mile in gallant style. 

Then the big bayou opened on them. Phew ! how 
the wind tore out of it, and the seas rode high. 

Archie laughed and set his teeth hard, driving the 
Sea Waif into the wind as well as she would go. 

It was slow work and wet work, but they could 


LofC. 


100 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

have made it in time, and once beyond the bayou the 
shore line would have protected them as before. 

Archie’s full attention was directed to managing 
his canoe, and when he heard a shout he looked up, 
surprised to see the Bet jibe and turn on the back 
track further out. 

He tried to come about, but it was impossible in 
such a heavy sea, and he then understood why his 
companion had jibed. 

This easy but dangerous manoeuvre was accom- 
plished without spilling more than a bucketful of 
water into the bowels of the Sea Waif, and shortly 
after they were in comparatively quiet water. 

Dick pulled up and anchored half-way to the cove. 

“No use, Archie. The Bet is in a dangerous con- 
dition with the loss of her centerboard. She rolls 
like a log on the waves. We must lay to and wait,” 
he said, with resignation. Dick was nothing if not 
philosophical. 

The sun was warm, and soon the cruisers lay back 
engaged in reading light literature brought for the 
purpose — Marryat’s works. 

When noon came they had lunch, being able to 
use their Uamme force-lamp stoves to advantage. 


Paddling Under Palmettos. loi 

“I say, Dick,” said Archie, in a subdued tone, the 
canoes being only a score of feet apart. 

‘‘Well?” 

“If I get a ’coon will you skin him?” 

“Will I? Count on me. Til skin all the ’coons 
you shoot about here. Why, about three years ago 
when I was visiting ” 

The bang of a gun interrupted him. 

“There’s your ’coon kicking among the roots of 
that tree, Dick. Hush! Byjovel here’s another 
smelling him — a young, fat fellow.” 

“Hold on! I didn’t bargain ” 

Another bang! 

“Down he goes. This is fine work. I feel equal 
to a dozen. Bring on your ’coons,” exclaimed 
Archie, slipping in fresh shells. 

“But I don’t. Spare me,” said Dick. 

No more were seen, so Archie secured the two 
victims, and gravely deposited them on the deck of 
the Bet, He expected to see his companion toss 
them overboard, but instead Dick felt of them with 
glistening eyes. 

“This young one is prime. Now, perhaps, I can 
show you how I saw the darkies cook a ’coon on 


102 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

my long canoe trip down the Mississippi River. I 
don’t know whether you will eat it, but if you like 
young baked pig I think it will strike you about 
right.” 

He went ashore, for there was a little dry ground 
at this place, and half an hour later Archie saw 
smoke ascending. 

He forgot all about it until later on, when Dick 
produced the baked ’coon. 

Neither of them took a great fancy to it, but 
Archie could see how a taste for the dish might be 
cultivated. 

“How did you bake it without an oven?” he asked, 
in surprise. 

“I made one.” 

“Out of what.?” 

“Mud.” 

“Oh, yes; I’ve heard of old hunters doing that, 
but I didn’t dream you knew of it.” 

“I’ve been around some,” said Dick, smiling 
quietly. 

Indeed he had. Few young fellows had seen more 
of the country east of the Rockies, from snowshoe- 
ing and moose hunting in New Brunswick, canoe- 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 103 

ing in Maine, Canada, and upper and lower Missis- 
sippi, many of the rivers and lakes, down to the Gulf 
and the intricate waters of Florida. 

As the afternoon waned they paddled back dis- 
consolately to their last night’s harbor, with no 
progress made. It was discouraging. Worse than 
this, real trouble stared them in the face, for their 
fresh water was getting low. Dick had about two 
gallons, while Archie guessed he had one. 

This was far from pleasant. Why, it made them 
thirsty only to think of it. All day they had seen 
but two boats on the river, and these were scudding 
before the wind under what Dick called a ‘‘goose 
wing,” being a mere capful of canvas. 

It was a boisterous wind that closed the curtains 
of that night. 


104 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 


CHAPTER IX. 

A DDER HUNT ON THE ST. LUCIE. 

The next day was Sunday. 

Archie awoke about the middle of the night. It 
looked threatening, as clouds were scurrying across 
the face of the sky and the wind caused his boat to 
tug at her anchors, so he steadied her by throwing 
out a second mud hook from the stern. 

Even while he worked some drops of rain fell, but 
the storm passed off, and morning found things just 
as they had been for such a weary time. 

There was no hope of leaving their present an- 
chorage that day, for the broken centerboard made 
beating against such a combination next to impos- 
sible. Their fresh water was very low; they now 
used very little for cooking except for coffee or tea. 
What they had was far from fresh, having been in 
the tins since leaving Cocoa. This is the one objec- 
tionable feature of canoe cruising on salt water. 
Larger boats have little trouble in carrying all the 
fresh water they need, but canoes are small at their 
best and their stowage capacity limited. 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 


10 ^ 


The weary day wore on. 

Everything was lovely, save the one fact that the 
strong breeze came from the wrong quarter. 

^‘We’ve had wind enough from the south and 
southeast these three days back to have carried the 
fleet from Jupiter up to Titusville, and yet we haven’t 
made an inch, so to speak,” grumbled Dick. 

It was so sunny and balmly in the cove that to- 
ward noon Dick sailed out to see what the weather 
looked like down in the direction of that big bayou. 
He came back and reported it as rough as ever, and 
hoped that pocket of wind would soon give out. 

Two sharpies came in sight, tacking down the 
river. 

They were the first boats going that way the boys 
had seen for several days, and they fired a gun to at- 
tract attention, so that if the captains ran into Eden 
and found Ned they could report all well. 

Slowly the afternoon closed. 

Dick looked critically at the sky. 

“I think to-morrow will see a change,” he an- 
nounced, eagerly. 

‘‘Surely the wind can’t blow this way forever,” 
said Archie, doubtfully. 


io6 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

‘This isn’t anything to what I saw it last winter 
when I was down in this region. Then it howled 
from one quarter for a whole week. Being storm- 
bound I went off with the captain deer hunting.” 

“Tell me about it,” demanded Archie; “anything 
to kill time and make us forget we are marooned 
here in this miserable cove.” 

“There were some things about that deer hunt 
that impressed it upon my mind, and I don’t mind 
telling about it.” 

The canoes were side by side, as they had not ar- 
ranged them for the night. Dick lay back on his 
cushions, puffed away at his pipe reflectively, and 
then began: 

“Some one had left an old birch-bark canoe with 
the captain, and I took a fancy to paddle it around 
to revive our recollections of days spent in Canada. 
The captain proposed that we take the boat and go 
up the St. Lucie for a deer hunt. I was agreeable, 
so we put the canoe on board his sharpie and set 
sail. The wind was steady, a point east of south, 
and my destination being Jupiter Light, there was 
no use in trying to beat through the Narrows, so I 
was biding my time. 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 107 

“Up in the mouth of the St. Lucie we anchored 
the sharpie and passed the night. Early in the 
morning we were up, and breakfast was speedily dis- 
posed of. Then, leaving a boy on board, we entered 
the birch-bark and paddled several miles up the 
river. 

“The captain had hunted so much in this region 
that he seemed to know every foot of territory. We 
were aiming now for a certain spot where a deer 
trail led to the water. It is customary, as you know, 
having been there yourself, Archie, to watch these 
runways in New York State while the hounds are 
after the deer back in the timber, and when hard 
pressed the deer make for the water, thus affording 
a splendid chance for a shot. All that is legitimate 
sport. This clubbing deer to death in the water is 
an abomination, a butchery which I can’t too 
strongly condemn. 

“Well, their methods of hunting deer down in this 
region differ exceedingly from those. Here they 
generally 'still hunt.’ On the pine levels the eye can 
see a long distance through the trees, for there is 
little or no undergrowth. Hunting to windward, 
when by standing on a stump or a log one sees a 


io8 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

deer in the distance, perhaps at one of the ‘burns,' 
it is next in order to creep within gunshot. Some- 
times dogs are used, but in a more legitimate way 
than up North.” 

“What is a ‘burn,' Dick?” asked Archie. 

“It is an open piece of ground where the dead 
grass is burned each winter, so as to start the green 
growth. They are attractive spots, and cattle come 
to graze there. Of course the deer take advantage 
of this fact, too, and at this time of year can gen- 
erally be found in such places. Well, the captain 
posted me on the edge of the water, in some tall 
saw grass. I was in the canoe. He himself went 
around the pond — for the patch of water was little 
else — and I saw no more of him for some time. 

“I watched the water for an hour, and there was 
no sign of deer. Becoming wearied, I sat down 
and dozed. Every little while I would raise my head 
and give a glance around the water's edge. You can 
understand this thing became quite monotonous af- 
ter a time. 

“The sun was low in the west and twilight near; 
still no deer. I was dozing no longer, because the 
plagued sand flies had put in an appearance, and 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 109 

were swarming around me in a way savage enough 
to make a fellow wild. Some people don’t mind 
their stings, but just then I seemed peculiarly suscep- 
tible to them. My face and hands burned like fire. 
In vain I drew on gloves and elevated the collar of 
my pea-jacket — they seemed to concentrate more 
furiously upon the parts still exposed, until I was 
ready to give up. A smudge would have sent them 
off, but how was I to build one watching for deer? 
The idea was absurd, but I determined that, as I 
was only there for fun, this martyrdom was not to 
be endured any longer. I would strike out upon the 
water and call for the captain. 

“Standing up in the bow of the boat I gave one 
push with the paddle, mechanically holding my gun 
in the other hand. The birch-bark, light as a cork, 
floated out upon the water. Then I received such a 
shock as I had never before experienced. Bless me, 
old fellow, if there on the other shore, just at the 
foot of the runway, didn’t I see a herd of deer — yes, 
actually a herd, and the leader with the biggest ant- 
lers I ever saw on a Florida runt deer. 

“The sight nearly paralyzed me, and yet, to my 


no Paddling Under Palmettos. 

credit, I had sense enough left to drop the paddle 
and push my gun forward. It was a Winchester, the 
best gun I ever handled, and as true as steel. Judge 
of my astonishment just then to see the captain poke 
his head and shoulders out of the thicket not twenty 
feet away, to all appearances, from where the deer 
stood. The animals had by this time noticed me, 
but they showed little signs of fear. It was quite 
evident that the captain did not know of their pres- 
ence until he saw me standing there with my gun 
at my shoulder. I picked out the fellow with the 
noblest pair of horns and let drive, for I had never 
been able to get a good pair of antlers on a Florida 
deer before then. He dropped, and the rest turned 
to make off. My game sprang to his feet, but be- 
fore he had made two leaps I had fired again, and 
once more he went down, this time to rise no more. 
It was pretty late to send a shot after the others, but 
I did it, and felt rather than saw that the bullet had 
gone home. 

“The captain, at my first shot had leaped back in 
the thicket, and I could hear him crashing along. I 
knew he was trying to reach the runway before the 


Paddling Under Palmettos. iii 

deer were out of sight. A single shot from the 
woods announced that he had at least managed to 
accomplish this, and with what success I could hardly 
say. I paddled over to the other side and sprang 
ashore. My game lay there safe and sound, and, 
hearing the captain calling, I went up the runway. 
To my surprise I found him bending over a dead 
deer, which already had its throat cut, a duty I had 
not neglected to perform ere leaving my game. 
The captain’s bullet had struck just back of the fore- 
leg as the deer was rounding a bend in the trail that 
in another second would have concealed him from 
view. 

“ ‘How’s this ?’ I said, pointing to a hole in his 
body besides. ‘I didn’t hear you fire twice.’ 

“ ‘I only shot once,’ he replied. 

“ ‘Then this was the fellow I struck on the full 
jump.’ 

“There could be no doubt of it, and the singular 
thing was that the captain had picked out the same 
animal. Probably the wound had caused it to fall 
behind its fellows and enabled him to get in his fire.” 

“It was a peculiar hunt. How came it the cap- 


1 12 Paddling Under Palmettos, 

tain did not know of the deer until he saw you ready 
to fire?” asked Archie. 

''We never really knew — they came on the scene 
like ghosts,” said Dick, musingly, for successful 
hunts always bring keen pleasure to the participant 
in later days. 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 


113 


CHAPTER X, 

EDEN AT LAST. 

Again it was morning. 

Archie slept a little later than usual, for his night 
had been a restless one, what with the soughing of 
the wind, the rocking of the boat, and clamorous 
voices of night birds, and his dreams of home. 

^‘Sea Waif, ahoy!’^ 

This familiar hail aroused him, and out came his 
head. 

“What’s the good word, Dick?” 

“Wind died down about four o’clock, and now 
blowing very soft.” 

“From where?” 

“South southeast.” 

“The deuce !” 

“Don’t fret. We’ll get no more wind from that 
quarter for some days. It’s blown itself out now.” 
i “Yes, time for a norther,” declared Archie, sar- 
castically. 

“Mark me, we’ll have it before night,” and the 


1 14 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

wise weather prophet looked all around the horizon 
at the “signs.” 

Something was brewing, that was positive. 
Heavy clouds were in the west — in fact, all around 
it looked lowering. 

“On what grounds do you base your prophecy?” 
asked Archie, interested. 

“On the way the clouds are gathering in the north. 
We may get westerly squalls first, but something 
will follow.” 

“We can’t stay here.” 

Dick shut his teeth hard. 

“And Eden ten miles away. We’ve got to get 
out of this now or never.” 

“Hurrah ! I’m with you, old man.” 

Breakfast was soon ready. Archie was for start- 
ing without, in his impatience, and eating a snack 
of ship biscuit and dried mullet on the way, but Dick 
put his foot down on such a proposition. 

“In all my cruising there have been few times that 
I failed to get a decent morning meal when I had the 
opportunity. No man can tell how he will be able 
to get the next one in such cruising as ours. No, 


Paddling Under Palmettos. ns 

sir, I am in for coffee and a stew,’’ he declared, 
stoutly. 

'‘Then put me down for coffee, bacon and buck- 
wheats. Might as well be hung for a sheep as a 
lamb,” laughed Archie. 

His best trait was his good nature. His compan- 
ions never found him anything but cheerful, even 
when buffeting the most adverse circumstances. 
That means much when two or three are thrown 
together for weeks at a time, on a cruise. 

When eight o’clock came it found them ready to 
do battle with the elements in all their whims. 

Every inch of sail was set, and in the light breeze 
they hoped to make their way down the shore. If 
they could do no better they could cross the sound 
and reach the house of a turtler, where their water 
cans might be replenished. 

Before they had gone fifty yards Archie saw that 
the change his companion predicted was coming. 

The clouds had gathered in the west, and looking 
back he discovered that St. Lucie was blotted out of 
sight. 

A tremendous rain squall was sweeping down the 
river, and it came from the north, sure enough. 


ii6 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

They slipped on their oilskins in haste. By this 
time the squall had struck a skipjack a mile astern, 
and it was immediately blotted out as if by night. 

Archie did not like the looks of things. 

“Fm going nearer shore and anchor until we see 
what’s what,” he called out. 

His mind was full of the night of confusion at the 
mouth of the St. Sebastian, when they went drag- 
ging anchors before the terrible norther. 

Dick called to him to come on, and reduced sail 
himself, but the wind was already howling and 
Archie did not catch his words. 

He ran in near the shore where the ’coons had 
been shot on the second day before, and anchored. 

By this time the storm had arrived, and rain fell 
in torrents, so that Archie afterward had to bail the 
Sea Waif out. 

What should he do? To go on was impossible, 
as he could not see thirty feet away in such a rain- 
fall. To go back to the cove was his only recourse 
should the squall keep on. He sat down to wait. 

For ten minutes the rain continued to pour down; 
then it ceased as suddenly as it had begun. 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 117 

Archie’s feet were wet, for he had on canvas 
shoes, but the oilskins had protected him otherwise. 

The wind still blew very strong, but it was now 
from the northwest. 

Losing no time Archie cracked on every inch of 
his cruising sail, raised his anchor, and then went 
whirling down the sound before a piping breeze. 
Where was the Bet? Not in sight, that was sure. 
Dick had evidently hauled in somewhere to wait for 
his companion. 

As Archie reached the mouth of the big bayou he 
saw the Bet at anchor behind the point and shouted 
to his friend, who immediately started to join him; 
but the treacherous wind began to die out and finally 
whipped around to the old quarter, southeast. 

How aggravating! 

By half-past ten they had made three miles and 
reached a small house on the west shore of the river, 
the property of a Chicago man, who allowed them a 
small quantity of water of very poor quality — from a 
barrel-spring — for emergencies, in case they did not 
get to Eden. He was building a better well some 
way off, he said. This place was afterward called 
Ankona. 


Ii8 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

When they were ready to go on again the wind 
was fair. It came out of the west. Dick’s prophecy 
was being fulfilled, for it must surely work into the 
north now. 

So they glided along. 

How lovely it was to lie back and feel the wind 
fill the sails, after the drudgery of paddling and pol- 
ing. 

It was exhilarating! 

They kept very near together. The wind grew 
fresher, and, as is usual down in that strange coun- 
try, when out of the west, began to come in gusts. 

They tore along, keeping near the west shore, for 
the water was not as rough there, being sheltered by 
the banks. 

So savage were these flaws that they presently had 
to stow the dandy. 

Even then, when they saw a squall strike the water 
and rush along with incredible swiftness, it became 
necessary to ease up the sheet and hang over the 
weather side to hold her up. 

Eternal vigilance is the price of safety in a canoe 
when enduring squally weather. The eye must be 
quick to see, and the body equally responsive in its 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 119 

action, for many a time the loss of a second means a 
disastrous upset. 

Nothing of the kind, however, occurred to our ad- 
venturous voyagers. 

Eden was sighted in the distance, the usual pier, 
a thousand feet long, just being built, some boats at 
anchor, and a white house back of the smaller dock 
— the post office and old store belonging to Captain 
Richards. 

As they drew nearer, all doubt was expelled from 
Archie’s mind by a large sign bearing the name 
Eden. 

Talk of shipwrecked mariners feeling joy at sight 
of a vessel, or lost travelers in the desert finding a 
spring of bubbling water in a green oasis under the 
palms! it compared well with the grateful feeling 
that came upon our young friends when they 
reached the object of their long-deferred hopes. 

Ned awaited them on the pier And had a hearty 
hand-shake for each. 

He had been getting a little worried about them, 
and yet, knowing the weather so well, could guess 
how they were stormbound. 

Archie went at once for letters and was fortunate 


120 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

enough to get one, although there had been no 
mail down for a week. 

Eden struck him as by far the prettiest place along 
the river. At this point the river bank was some 
twenty feet in height. Captain Richards' house, 
where he, at that time, took boarders, was a very 
pleasant building with a porch along the front. 

It was surrounded by flower beds and orange 
trees. The air was full of the odor of blossoms, for 
lemon and lime trees were in full bloom, and the 
sour or native oranges were breaking out. 

Archie was enchanted. 

Here, at last, was the realization of what he had 
fancied he should see in Florida, and which he had as 
yet failed to find. 

Ah ! Here was the well-known captain, the *‘pine- 
apple-man of Eden,” as he was known along the 
river, a tall Jerseyman, formerly from Newark, jolly, 
obliging, and with a twinkle in his eye that was a suf- 
ficient guaranty for his love of fun. 

Archie liked him from the start. His boys were 
grown up and built upon the same plan as their 
father — good-natured. 

The captain was erecting a house of eight rooms 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 12 1 

as an annex, but the season did not promise to be 
heavy, so he would hardly need it that year. 

Ned was eager to get away, but in consideration of 
his friends having arrived after so much trouble, he 
said nothing about going yet. 

The old captain had been on hand, though he was 
away just then on Richards’ sharpie fishing and get- 
ting oysters at Indian River. 

Later in the day he turned up. 

Archie looked through the vegetable garden and 
was pleased to know it was really possible to have 
strawberries and tomatoes here very nearly every 
month in the year. 

These things made up, in a measure, for the many 
discomforts. He had already become philosophical, 
and learned to take things as they came, being sur- 
prised at nothing, and surprises were plentiful 
enough, many of them very disagreeable in their na- 
ture. 

Then he walked up the rise through the great 
pineapple patch, acres in extent. 

This was before the time when ugly sheds were 
built over the fields, marring their beauty, but sav- 
ing the plants from frost and sun-scorching. 


122 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

Back of this was a windmill, or wind-engine, for 
raising water, and beyond a lake, or savannah, that, 
only a few years back, was full of alligators, although 
it was extremely doubtful whether one remained at 
this day. 

The alligator is extremely well thinned out along 
all traveled routes in Florida. If you want to see 
him in all his hideous glory, you must penetrate the 
swamps or go to the Everglades. There you will 
find enough of them to make the sight common. 

By ascending the fresh-water tributaries of the In- 
dian River in small canoes that only draw a few 
inches of water, you can still shoot some of these 
reptiles, but they are fast going in that quarter. 

The invitation extended to strangers is about like 
this: ‘'Come and see me, and we’ll have a ’gator- 
hunt in the swamp.” Thousands are slain for their 
hides alone and the teeth thrown in. Tourists with 
their guides kill other thousands, so that it is only 
a question of time as to when they will be so thor- 
oughly cleaned out that to see one will be the ex- 
ception and not the rule. 

Archie walked back to the house. 

All was so pleasant on shore that it was hard to 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 123 

believe a norther had started in, and yet such was 
the case. 

The wind was blowing down the river now just as 
hard as it had blown up stream for the last three 
days. It rushed through the tops of the palmettos 
with the sound of an express train. There were no 
longer any squalls, but a steady wind that would 
have taken a good sharpie and a bold skipper from 
Titusville to Eden in twenty-four hours, barring any 
accident. 

In the gardens were flowers of many kinds, all in 
full bloom, for there had been no frost in Eden this 
year. 

Near the boat landing several young cocoanut 
trees were rearing their graceful heads to the top of 
the bank. Bananas, guavas, figs — all these things 
Archie had seen, and they no longer possessed that 
novelty that brings with it the charm of newness. 

He was ready to start when the others gave the 
word. 

When he reached the river he found that the 
sharpie had arrived and was anchored out in the 
stream, the water being too shallow to permit her 


124 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

coming to the small dock, though this northern wind 
would soon raise it. 

With Dick and Ned leaning against the railing of 
the steps leading down below, was a grizzled old sea- 
dog — a man whose bronzed face and gray hair told 
that he had seen a life of adventure on the water. 

This was the captain. 

He was quaint in his way, and yet he could strike 
a truth home with sledge-hammer blows. 

Archie was introduced, and stood near listening. 
At the same time he was taking the measure of 
Ned’s old friend, with whom he had cruised the 
waters of Charlotte Harbor two years before in a 
large boat. 

Archie’s conclusion was that he would like the 
old captain. 

He was a walking encyclopedia — a fund of in- 
formation on any topic. 

Through his whole life he had been a lover of the 
gun and rod, and never neglected an opportunity to 
indulge his weakness when business would permit. 

In his way the old captain was rough, but Archie 
soon learned that he was a keen reader of human na- 
ture and could “size” a man up to a dot. 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 125 

Besides, the captain always had a fund of reminis- 
cences at his tongue’s end, and when, of necessity, 
he was the hero of his tale he spoke of his achieve- 
ments in a modest way, as though it were an every- 
day occurrence to pass through the worst gale 
known on the lakes, and attempt to demolish a 
lighthouse with a vessel during that same storm by 
running his bowsprit though the building. 

Archie liked to hear him talk, and in their rela- 
tions in the future these two became fast friends. 

He found that they had been talking the matter 
over before his arrival, and had, to all appearances, 
come to a conclusion concerning a departure. 

‘‘Can you be ready to start in the morning, Archie, 
if the wind shifts to-night?” asked Dick. 

“Yes. Whereaway?” 

“Jupiter Light. Then either Lake Worth or the 
Everglades,” came the answer. 


126 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 


CHAPTER XI 

SURROUNDED BY SHARKS. 

Archie would have liked to have spent more time 
in this delightful spot, but the wishes of his two 
companions were law to him, so he spent the rest 
of the day in looking about the place. 

When night came the norther was still howling 
down the river. 

The wind was not a chilly one, the mercury mark- 
ing sixty. They had advanced too far south to feel 
the cold now, although this same norther would 
probably be marked at least to the freezing point in 
Jacksonville. This was one consolation. 

That night they all gathered in^ the office of the 
little house, and stories were the order of the hour. 
Many strange experiences were told which showed 
the perils of their past lives. 

The old captain was requested to again tell of that 
night of storm on the lakes when his vessel had had 
the collision with the lighthouse. He did so, mod- 
estly, but his hearers could infer from what little he 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 127 

said that upon him had fallen the full burden of the 
trials and sufferings of that night. 

There was also one present who had seen much 
of life upon the sea. 

He did not speak often, but was a good listener. 
Along the Florida coast he spent much time in 
shark fishing. No one seemed to know what there 
was so fascinating to him about the sport. 

Generally anglers wish to catch a few sharks to 
say they have done it, but the effort is such hard 
work that they soon give it up and proceed to more 
gentle sport. 

This white-haired old man, however, seemed to 
love it. 

He carried with him great shark-hooks attached to 
strong chains and swivels, solid steel grains for 
spearing the fish, and a great assortment of lines, 
from a hawser to an ordinary-sized fishing line of 
Cuttyhunk. 

It had been suggested that he might be in some 
peculiar business, such as securing shark oil from the 
dead fish for some purpose, just as they take it from 
porpoises for jewelers’ use. Those who had watched 


128 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

him fish, however, had seen that he only extracted a 
single tooth from each victim. 

These were kept as trophies, marked with ink as 
to the time of capture, and if there was anything 
peculiar about the affair the particulars were jotted 
down in a big logbook. 

No doubt that volume would have been very in- 
teresting reading. 

When pressed by the others for a story, this gen- 
tleman, the Shark Hunter, as he was often called in 
sport, looked calmly around. 

'T am tempted to tell you, gentlemen, the reason 
of my strange hatred for the pirate of the ocean — the 
shark,” he said, with a gleam of humor in his eye. 

One and all were delighted. So various had ru- 
mors become that a great deal of curiosity had been 
excited, and even ridiculous stories set afloat con- 
cerning his queer occupation, some asserting their 
belief that a man lived upon shark’s flesh. 

He was undoubtedly about to take advantage of 
this opportunity of setting himself right before the 
world. 

When those present had hastened to assure him 
that such a story would be very agreeable to them, 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 129 

the old gentleman, with a smile upon his face, leaned 
back in his chair and began : 

“Some ten years ago I was aboard a vessel that 
sailed from New York for Havana. I was her cap- 
tain, to tell you the truth. 

“We had fair weather for quite a time after leaving 
New York, and soon rounded Hatteras without 
much trouble. 

“This unusual good luck we paid up for later on, 
as you will see. 

“One night it came on a hurricane, blowing great 
guns. It was such a storm as I had seldom met with 
in my twenty years of service along the coast, and 
came from the direction of the Windward Islands, 
that breeding place for cyclones and howlers. 

“Our vessel was stanch but old, and we drove be- 
fore the gale. Generally, these real cyclones sel- 
dom reach the Florida coast, it being about the ex- 
treme line of their circuit, as Captain Richards here 
can tell you, for he is on the lookout for them about 
August, and has a chart of their usual course. 

“I soon learned that we were in a bad place, and 
there was a strong chance of our striking some one 


130 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

of the numerous submerged reefs that abound in the 
neighborhood of the Florida keys. 

‘‘I am not much of a yarn spinner or I might de- 
scribe the awful scene when we struck. It was at 
midnight. The worst of the cyclone had really 
passed over, and but for this catastrophe we would 
have gone through, with but the loss of our main- 
mast. 

‘'Some of my men had been washed overboard, 
but there were seven besides myself still remaining. 
The schooner was heavily laden with such things as 
farming implements and machinery, so that she 
must soon sink, and the wild waves would dash over 
her. 

‘T knew the sea would soon go down, but it would 
be too late to save us. 

“The vessel floated off the shoal and hope flashed 
into our hearts. Alas ! when I made my way down 
below I found that already the vessel was settling, a 
great hole having been knocked in her bottom. 

“She must sink inside of ten minutes, and our po- 
sition seemed hopeless. The boats were either gone 
or knocked to pieces, and we could find no material 
for making a raft in that short time. 


Paddling Under Palmettos. ni 

^‘Some of the men were for throwing themselves 
into the sea on a hatch, but I convinced five of them 
that it was our only chance to climb up into the rig- 
ging of the remaining mast. 

“We had some show, for I believed the vessel in 
sinking would reach bottom and leave her broken 
spars out of water. 

“Two of them threw a hatch overboard and leaped 
after it. One caught hold and the other was 
drowned in our sight. Hatch and sailor were swept 
away to leeward out of sight. 

“We sprang into the rigging, and had just time 
to secure a hold up near the spar when the vessel 
went down with a moan like that of a drowning man. 

“It was a fearful position, and only for the flashes 
of lightning we would have been in utter darkness. 
I prepared for death, and believed the chances of liv- 
ing through the night were about one in a thou- 
sand. 

“As I had expected, the vessel reached the bot- 
tom, leaving part of her mast and spars above the 
surface. 

“Here we lashed ourselves. 

“If I should live to the age of Methuseleh I would 


132 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

never forget the horror of that night. The heavy 
cargo of the schooner held her down, and unless the 
billows swept the mast entirely away, it was apt to 
stand for some time. 

''Minutes seemed hours and hours weeks. The 
sea raged and the spray flew over us, for the shal- 
low nature of the place caused the billows to break 
badly. 

"Morning came. Only four of us saw it. The 
others had been washed away during the night. 

"Through the livelong day we hung there, wet, 
weary and dispirited. Around us was solitude. Far 
away on one quarter we could see the low-lying 
keys, but the day passed without a single sail com- 
ing in sight. 

"It was only a question of time as to when we 
should fall victims to the multitude of sharks that 
hovered in the neighborhood. 

"Already they had feasted upon our unlucky com- 
panions, no doubt, and our fate seemed plain. 

"Hour after hour dragged by. 

"We were fascinated by the awful sight, and I felt 
my brain reel. 

"One of the sailors became mad from the effeqt 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 133 

of the exposure, his fear, and the awful doom await- 
ing us. I knew what was the matter when I saw 
him creeping stealthily toward me knife in hand. 
His eyes blazed with the fire of his brain, and there 
was murder in his glance. 

“Self-preservation is the first law of nature, and, 
although death seemed so near and so positive, I 
made up my mind that I would not submit tamely. 

“He crept up like a tiger. I had tied myself to 
the spar with a piece of rope which I had cut from 
the rigging. 

“As he drew nearer I warned him to keep back, 
but he simply scowled. One would think it was his 
worst foe upon whom he was thus advancing instead 
of a friend. 

“At last he sprang at me. The shock was ter- 
rible. I managed to clutch the mad sailor’s arm so 
that the descending knife did me very little injury. 

“As was natural, however, we both lost our foot- 
ing and fell over. I felt a thrill of horror shoot 
through my frame, and expected to feel the teeth 
of a shark in my flesh, but the rope with which I had 
tied myself saved me. There I hung, my feet almost 
touching the water. 


134 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

‘'I heard a human shriek, a bubbling cry of an- 
guish, a swirl of the waters, and my very soul shrank 
with horror as I realized that the man had been 
torn to pieces by the hungry sharks. 

^‘My turn might have come, too, only that I threw 
my arms up, and clasping the spar drew my body be- 
yond danger. Even as I did this a monster made a 
snap at my dangling legs, his jaws coming together 
with a pistol-like report. 

this time my companions had recovered 
enough to help me up. 

^‘We were only three when the sun went down 
that evening, and it was doubtful whether any of us 
would answer to the muster roll by morning, for 
there seemed to be a chance of a storm in the air. 

“By this time our finer senses had become dulled, 
so that even when in the dead of night I heard the 
awful cry, the splash and the rush of the monsters 
below that announced the death of another comrade, 
only a faint shudder came over me. 

“Once more morning came. Two of us were left, 
but we had not eaten a bite for thirty-six hours, and 
were completely worn out with exhaustion. 

“Below us those horrible monsters glided, pa- 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 135 

tiently biding their time. Surely, they are the tigers 
of the sea — man-eaters. 

“Eagerly did we scan the horizon as soon as the 
day had come, and far away we sighted a little col- 
umn of black smoke upon the sky. 

“That meant a steamer. 

“Whether it had passed us in the night, or was 
coming the other way, was a question on which our 
lives depended, for if we lost this chance we might 
as well give up the struggle. 

“I cannot tell you how eagerly we watched and 
waited. Finally we were overjoyed to see that the 
steamer was north-bound, and must pass within a 
few miles of us. 

“We began to signal. Never in all my life have I 
passed such an hour. The thought that the steamer 
might go past and leave us to our fate was the most 
terrible anguish I ever experienced. 

“Just when it all happened I do not know, but 
some time during this fearful experience my hair 
turned from black to white, just as you see it now. 

“The steamer saw our signals and answered them. 
Coming slowly up, she lowered a boat, and at last 
we were safe. 


136 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

'The sharks seemed to realize that they had been 
cheated out of their expected prey, for they showed 
it by even attacking the heavy yawl, but shots and 
harpoon-thrusts wounded so many that they turned 
their attention to fighting among themselves. 

"That is my story, gentlemen. What I suffered 
has been too terrible to relate, at greater length, 
but from that day to this I have entertained a bitter 
hatred for sharks, and spend all my winter cruising 
in the South, where I can put in my time ridding the 
world of these voracious creatures.” 

"And from what I have heard you have put quite 
a number hors de combat,'’ said Dick, quietly. 

"A large hammer-head shark that I caught at Ju- 
piter the other day made my list just one thousand 
seven hundred.” 

Archie studied the man. Here was a strange 
character, indeed. No doubt the events of that time 
of danger had slightly affected his mind. On all 
other subjects he was rational enough, but when the 
matter of fishing for sharks came up he was enthu- 
siastic, or, as Jack said, "a crank.” 

They spent a very agreeable evening. 

How strange to see summer flowers and many 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 137 

night-blooming cereus at that, all about the room in 
this wintry time. One could hardly believe it was 
January. 

Captain Richards pressed them to remain and go 
on a deer hunt. 

The deer were scarce up above, for the Indians 
had cleared them out, but some might be found 
within five miles of Eden. 

^‘How is that, captain?” asked Ned. 

“Thereby hangs a true tale. Some years ago, 
during a terrible storm, some wretched Seminole 
braves came here and asked shelter. They were in 
a pitiable condition. We let them sleep m one of 
the boats, and fed them until the weather settled. 
When they were going off one of them came to me, 
and sweeping his hand back toward the pine woods 
said : 

“^Captain hunt deer?’ 

“I said I expected to later on, when I found time. 

“Tndian no hunt captain’s deer,’ said the fellow 
as he walked off. 

“Very little in itself, but it meant much, for there 
has not been an Indian hunting within miles of Eden 
for three years. The fellow kept his word.” 


138 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

‘'Are there many of these Indians?’’ 

“Several hundred of them. They are divided into 
about three groups, one down on the Miami, another 
deep in the Everglades, and the third further north. 
They make a detour to avoid Eden in coming and 
going.” 

“Then you don’t fear an outbreak?” 

“Outbreak! Nonsense.” 

“They are a peculiar people.” 

“Granted.” 

“And come of a warlike race.” 

“Oh I yes. Osceola and his braves made a desper- 
ate fight, you know.” 

“What if when I was out hunting I should meet 
one of these Seminoles?” continued Archie.^ 

“Well?” 

“What would he do?” 

Captain Richards laughed. 

“I’ll tell you. If you should step up to him and 
say, ‘Give me that gun,’ the chances are ten to one 
he’d give it to you.” 

“What!” 

“Why, so far as I have seen them, they are the 
most docile of people, fearful of doing anything to 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 


139 


arouse the anger of the whites, for they have sense 
enough to know that if war came this time it would 
be one of extermination for them/^ 

‘This is news to me.” 

“Captain, I have heard that they still have ne- 
gro slaves in their village — the only slaves held in 
this country. How is it?” 

“I have heard the same thing.” 

“Is it true?” 

“Very possibly, but there are none among the 
Miami Indians, for I have seen their home.” 

“But it may be a fact among those deeper in the 
Everglades ?” 

“I could easily believe it.” 

Although the proprietor of Eden pressed them 
so hard to stay, it was thought best to sail in the 
morning if the breeze proved favorable, for the 
wind, in the north, might be too strong for navigat- 
ing Kobe Sound with comfort — broad, treacherous 
water that it was. 

If they did stay over they would accept his kind 
invitation for a hunt in the pines. 

When Archie crawled into the Sea Waif at about 
ten, the wind was still in the north. 


140 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

^^Anchor out where you can have swinging room, 
Archie,’" called Dick from his craft, “for I think it’s 
going to shift soon.” 

Jn jten minutes the skipper of the Sea Waif was 
in the land of dreams. 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 


141 


CHAPTER XII. 

THIS MOSQUITO FUEET AT JUPITFR UGHT. 

About an hour after midnight Archie awoke. 

He believed the wind was getting a better swing 
at his boat than before, and with a suspicion as to 
what this meant, poked his head out. 

The sky was clear, the stars bright, and the wind 
due east. That was good. 

“Halloo, Sea Waif!” said a quiet voice, and look- 
ing over to the Bet he could see the head of her skip- 
per poking out of the bow end of the canoe tent. 

“I see the wind’s changed,” said Archie. 

“Yes.” 

“What were you up for?” 

“Giving the Bet a little more line. The wind 
has a free sweep at us here, now that we are not pro- 
tected by the bulkhead.” 

“Shall I do the same?” 

“It is wise.” 

“No need of two anchors?” 

“Bless your dear, timid heart. Sea Waif, no ! This 


142 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

is holding-ground totally unlike the affair up the 
river.” 

The floating weeds and sea grass catching on the 
cable held like fun, and nothing short of a tornado 
could have swept them off. 

“We’ll leave in the morning, Dick.” 

‘Tf the breeze holds east, yes.” 

“I’m off to dreamland again, then.” 

“Ditto, when I’ve smoked this pipe.” 

Rocked in the cradle of the deep, Archie slept 
soundly and knew no more until, hearing voices on 
the landing, he looked out, to find the sun about to 
rise above the low-lying peninsula a mile and a half 
away, beyond which was the ocean. 

As the wind still held east, it seemed settled that 
they would try and make Jupiter Inlet that day. 

There is much routine work in cruising. This be- 
comes more fatiguing in Florida waters, where as a 
general thing each cruiser must sleep and cook 
aboard his own craft, for the plain reason that so 
much of the shore is illy adapted for camping pur- 
poses. 

Then the cheery camp-fire, where the burden of 
preparing meals ic divided, making it a pleasure, the 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 143 

social pipe and conversation, the jovial yarn-spin- 
ning — all these things are lost, and each man, light- 
ing his little Harnme force lamps, or battery of Flor- 
ence lamp stoves, proceeds to cook his solitary re- 
past and eat it alone. 

Generally when the boats are close together pleas- 
ant badinage will be indulged in from time to time. 
Dick and Archie used to exchange ideas as to the 
all-absorbing question of meals, and it was a com- 
mon thing to hear the former call: 

‘^Ahoy, Sea Waif! What’ve you got good for 
supper ?’" 

^^lOh! I’ve got a stew of canned corned beef and 
succotash thickened with broken ship biscuit, and a 
kettle of rice with condensed milk and sugar in it. 
Bully, too! Now, I’m enjoying a cup of English 
breakfast tea. It goes right to the spot. What’ve 
you got, Betf' 

‘‘I never saw a fellow get along so fast. My 
grub’s cooking yet. Let’s see. Here’s a hash of 
canned roast beef and Boston baked beans which I 
shall thicken with flour, a pot of hominy of which 
I’m very fond, and a pannikin of tea. I shall make 
out with some pilot bread, I reckon,” 


144 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

It can be readily understood that the appetites of 
our cruisers, always good, became extraordinary at 
times. Their bill of fare was limited, but it was not 
variety they sought, only quantity. 

Let us see what Archie had on board, in order to 
get an idea as to how they fared. 

There were canned goods in the shape of con- 
densed milk, pound cans of corned beef, corn, suc- 
cotash, Boston baked beans, roast beef, chipped 
beef, and a few other things of like ilk. Then came 
a canvas bag holding some six pounds of ship bread, 
or pilot biscuit. There were also potatoes of two 
sorts, onions, oatmeal, flour, sugar, tea, coffee, rice 
and hominy. All but the first and second of these 
were kept in the mess chest of each boat. Besides 
these, there was a stick of bacon and some four or 
five pounds of pink salt pork. Down South the one 
is called breakfast bacon and the other bacon. 

Butter was carried when possible, and if eggs 
could be procured they were generally placed in the 
tin boxes holding flour, oatmeal and hominy. 

Thus it will be seen that the cruisers were in no 
danger of starvation. 

They might have been away from civilization a 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 


145 

month and lived well, providing water could be ob- 
tained. This was hard to carry. The room was 
limited in a canoe, and, although the can stowed 
fairly well, it was forever in the way, often under 
one’s feet. 

It is one of the penalties of a salt-water cruise in 
a land where fresh water cannot be obtained all 
along the route. A trip through Long Island 
Sound, through the great South Bay, or along the 
Jersey coast would not necessitate any such ardu- 
ous carriage. 

They were now below the line of stores at which 
anything could be procured, the last being at Eden, 
and they would not meet with another until they 
reached Lake Worth. 

Breakfast over, they bade good-by to the hospita- 
ble folks at Eden. Captain Richards and his fam- 
ily saw the Red Jackets off. 

In their red shirts the skippers looked very pic- 
turesque that morning, the white sails of the boats 
catching the steady east wind and their sharp prows 
cutting the water of the river. 

It was about nine o’clock when the canoe fleet left 
the dock at Eden. 


146 Paddling Under Palmettos. 


The old captain had a boat which had been made 
by himself. It was larger than the others both in 
length and beam. Besides, she had a heavy center- 
board and was yawl-rigged. The captain had no 
faith in the patent brass centerboards that shut up 
like a lady^s fan, declaring them too flimsy for a 
cruiser. 

Dick had mended his centerboard with the help 
of young Richards, so that the Bet was now in work- 
ing order. 

Archie had shown his boat to the captain, who 
had admired the hull but smiled at the rig. He 
promised at the first opportunity to remedy the se- 
rious defects in her sail, so that she would make up 
to windward as well as either of her companion 
boats. 

So the mosquito fleet left Eden, and once more 
sailed out upon the waves of the Indian River. 

The day was a lovely one and the breeze all that 
could be desired. 

Under such a wind Archie easily held his own. 
The boats were kept well together for the sake of 
company. If one found himself going ahead be- 
cause he received the ben^t of some peculiar freak 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 147 

in the wind he shortened sail and waited for the oth- 
ers to come up. 

Ned led the way. 

Dick had never been below Indian River Inlet be- 
fore, so that this was new stamping ground to him 
also. 

Waveland was passed about eleven o’clock. It 
lies about six miles south of Eden. 

Dick and Archie were alongside, and the former 
consulting his map, said: 

‘'Sixteen miles to Jupiter yet. If this wind holds 
out we’ll get there by four.” 

“Will it last?” 

“Give it up. Ordinarily, down here, an east wind 
is steady for days at a time, but we have seen no 
such breeze this season.” 

“It came steady enough from the southeast,” said 
Archie, shaking his head. 

“While we were crippled in that cove? Granted, 
and that would have been a glorious wind with which 
to have sailed to the Haulover Canal up above Titus- 
ville,” laughed Dick. 

“You are right there.” 

Jupiter Narrows required some care lest they 


148 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

should get lost. The channel was blind at times, but 
Ned knew where he was heading, and the boys never 
once found him to make a serious mistake. 

By nature Ned was jolly, and sitting in his boat or 
at the camp-fire, his voice — he had a good one, too, 
a baritone — could often be heard raised in some fa- 
vorite song. 

Most of those he sung were of the sea, but now 
and then he tuned up on some really pathetic bal- 
lad. Archie wondered when he listened to some of 
these whether Ned had not left some fair girl at 
home. 

Dick, too, warmed up under the genial glow of 
the camp-fire and once in a while gave the com- 
pany some shanty sailor song that in times past he 
had learned from an old tar. Captain Kendall, or 
‘‘Tarpon,’’ with whom he had made a canoe cruise 
from the lakes down the Ohio and Mississippi Rivers 
and along the gulf to Pensacola. 

Thus it will be seen that where circumstances al- 
lowed of their sitting around a fire they passed a 
very enjoyable evening. 

Dick’s fears were not well founded, for at three 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 149 

o’clock the breeze was still in the east and they had 
arrived within a few miles of Jupiter. 

This made them all happy. They had been buf- 
feted so much lately by adverse winds that a little 
good fortune came in very acceptably. 

“Look!’’ cried Archie, suddenly, pointing ahead. 

The others did so. 

“That’s Jupiter lighthouse,” said Dick. 

It could be plainly seen, being built upon a co- 
quina rock elevation. 

At four o’clock they came to a pause, making 
Ned a good prophet. 

The canoes were drawn up on the smooth, white 
sand, and their skippers getting out, proceeded to 
stretch their legs. 

“Well, here we are,” said Ned. 

“Right side up with care, too, thanks to your sa- 
gacious leadership, Ned.” 

“Bosh ! Anybody with eyes could have done the 
same thing with this map.” 

Ned was modest. It was not every one that 
could sail by chart. To do so over unknown 
ground requires great sagacity. The eye must be 


150 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

continually on the watch for signs, and suppositions 
have to be proved at the next available opportunity. 

He had done his duty well. 

From Jupiter Light on, there were no charts un- 
til Biscayne Bay was reached, so that this duty had 
now come to an end without the young pilot having 
made a single error. 

Presently the smoke of a fire arose as Archie, 
camp ax in hand, started in to business. 

The others also busied themselves in spreading 
a tent with the sails, for they intended spending 
some days here to enjoy the fine fishing, and they 
might as well experience the satisfaction of a per- 
manent camp. 

By the time these things had been accomplished 
the day was nearing its close, and it was too late to 
visit the lighthouse, which pleasure could be re- 
served until the morrow. 

While they were at supper, however, they re- 
ceived a visitor. This was a gentleman who walked 
into camp; he had on leggins and a corduroy suit. 
His face was that of a gentleman sportsman, the eye 
keen and withal pleasant. 

Our cruisers recognized him from description as 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 15 1 

a gentleman who had left Captain Richards’ place a 
day or two before their arrival, bound for Jupiter 
on a fishing trip. He was from Somerville, N. J., 
and had a companion along. They had come on to 
Jupiter in a small catboat belonging to Eden. 

He was made welcome. In camp good-fellowship 
generally becomes the rule, and seldom are visitors 
received in anything but a friendly spirit. 

This party proved to be good company, and know- 
ing the fishing ground was able to give the skippers 
of the mosquito fleet valuable advice. Around them 
was the great wilderness. Beyond the inmates of 
the lighthouse, and those on board a couple of 
sharpies that had come in over the bar and were 
lying to, waiting for daylight ere attempting the pas- 
sage of the Narrows. Probably not a human soul 
could have been found for miles around, unless it 
was some wandering alligator hunter in the vast 
tangle along the little river emptying into the In- 
dian near Jupiter Inlet. 

Breakfast was cooked in company, for it was a re- 
lief to be out of the boats. 

The tide promised to be favorable in an hour, so 


1^2 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 


they busied themselves laying in a supply of live 
bait, after which each man embarked. 

Soon the tide was rushing over the bar, and with 
it came multitudes of fish of a dozen varieties. 

This was a new method of fishing to Archie 
Forbes. At first the excitement was immense. 
When he struck home there was a delicious uncer- 
tainty as to whether one was fast to a game fish or a 
ten-foot shark. 

Ned described it exactly when he said it reminded 
him of the time when the labels washed off all his 
cans, and when he selected one at random there was 
an agony of suspense as to whether supper would 
consist of baked beans or peaches. 

It was laborious work pulling the fish in when 
caught, too. 

Playing them was utterly out of the question, for 
their antics would be sure to attract the attention of 
a shark, who would relieve the strain on the line by 
taking channel bass, hook and all — indeed, it was 
sometimes considered lucky to save the line. 

Archie lost seven hooks, thirty feet of line, several 
sinkers, and cut his hands in a number of places. 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 153 

True, he hauled in a hundred pounds of fish, but 
saved only one, having no use for the others. 

Finally he quit and joined the others on the shore, 
they having given it up before. 

Dick had been watching him. 

“Well, what do you think of it !” he asked. 

“The fishing is immense, but the sport — bah! 
Trout and bass in the clear streams of the North can 
never be compared to it.’^ 

Dick grunted. 

“Glad to see you’re so sensible. Still, this is a 
great country for ye cruiser.” 

Archie was ready to admit that — water there was 
in plenty, open water, when the North lay in winter’s 
cold embrace, and many of the days were balmy 
enough to suit the most critical. Yes, Florida had 
charms that no other State could lay claim to, since 
California offers little opportunities to the midget 


cruiser. 


154 Paddling Under Palmettos. 


CHAPTER XIII. 

HOW NED PROVED EQUAL TO AN EMERGENCY. 

“If you want a fine view walk over to the tower 
and ask the keeper’s permission to go up.” 

It was their friend of the night before who had 
said this, and they thought now was as good a 
chance as any to do this same thing. 

The view was grand, indeed. They could see the 
open sea, the coast line both north and south, and 
even get a fine view of the Indian River for miles. 

Looking into the interior they saw what appeared 
to be a wilderness of palmetto trees, saw grass and 
swamp land, where the smaller river wound its sinu- 
ous course — a fearful place to be lost in. 

“There’s the smoke from the Indian fires,” said 
Ned, pointing north. 

“It may come from the steamer, Indian River y land- 
ing at Eden.” 

“No. It is too heavy for that. The Indians are 
hunting up there. It is the time of year they do 
this.” 

“There’s another smoke in the southwest, a thin 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 155 

column. What does it come from, do you sup- 
pose?’' 

‘^Ah! that must be the mysterious smoke of the 
Everglades. No one has ever found out what it is.” 

‘‘They have an idea?” 

“All sorts of theories have been advanced, one 
even that there is the crater of an old volcano in the 
Everglades — a volcano that has in times past been 
pushed up out of the sea just above the level, and 
land formed around it. Learned men have even 
come here with the belief that they might solve the 
mystery attending the peculiar formation of South- 
ern Florida, but if they thought to find a strata of 
ashes and lava beds I’m afraid they were sadly dis- 
appointed.” 

“What is the true theory?” 

“About the formation of Florida?” 

“Yes.” 

Dick shrugged his shoulders. 

“Undoubtedly the little insect that formed the co- 
quina rock ages upon ages ago had much to do with 
it, as we can see now from the growth of the Keys, 
but beyond all question the currents of the ocean 
and gulf had much to do with it also.” 


156 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

have heard it said that long, long ago the St. 
Johns River was like the Indian River is to-day — a 
mere lagoon separated from the ocean by a strip of 
land, and with an inlet where Mayport now stands.” 

“For one I have never seen the theory disputed or 
proved untrue. These things are singular, and yet 
probably correct. The peninsula along the Indian 
River was once a series of reefs, which gradually 
filled in and formed land. Some time that will prob- 
ably happen to those reefs lying a mile or so off the 
shore, and a second lagoon be formed. That will 
not occur in our day, however,” laughed Dick. 

“The springs here are of immense size. Isn’t it 
strange where they come from in a land where there 
are no highlands?” said Archie. 

“Yes, and some of the largest within a few miles 
of the coast, inland, are hardly above tidewater. 
They could float a man-of-war on some of these 
springs. It has puzzled me to tell where the duece 
the limpid water comes from.” 

“Oh, that’s plain enough,” said Archie, readily. 
“There can be but one explanation. The water 
comes from the nearest mountain range, probably 
away up in Georgia.” 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 


157 


seems incredible/’ 

“I can prove it. More than once springs have 
been found on the very summit of elevations around 
which for many miles lay a level plain. How did 
the water get there? It came from higher moun- 
tains, perhaps hundreds of miles away.” 

'‘I see. There was a connection between the two, 
and the law of nature forced the water as near its 
own level as it could get.” 

“Exactly. That is the only explanation that can 
be given. Depend upon it, you will find it the true 
one.” 

“See here, fellows!” 

It was Ned who spoke. He had been looking 
south through his glass all this while. Business with 
him was always before pleasure. 

“What is it, Ned?” 

“We are bound for Lake Worth in a few days, and 
we had better be studying our course, for we have 
no charts, and it’s a dangerous piece of business to 
run outside unless we get a west breeze and little 
surf.” 

They saw the wisdom of his words, and coming to- 
gether proceeded to get all the information possible. 


158 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

The lighthouse keeper appeared on the scene 
just then, and various questions were put to him 
which he answered to the best of his ability. 

With the glass glimpses could be obtained of 
Lake Worth. Their worst trouble would, in all 
probability, be in crossing Lake Worth bar, for, as 
the creek connecting the lake with Jupiter was un- 
navigable just then, it was positively necessary that 
they make this outside run. 

Of course they would not leave Jupiter except un- 
der favorable conditions, as they were not inclined to 
be foolhardy. 

It was about ten miles to Lake Worth, over a fine 
stretch of beach, along which many walked who were 
passing from one place to the other. 

When they had looked to their satisfaction and 
learned all about the machinery of the flash-light of 
Jupiter, the canoeists descended again and went 
back to camp. 

Then Dick racked his brain in the endeavor to 
give the boys a fine fish dinner. 

Variety was not lacking, and from the manner in 
which the tin platters were passed back for more 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 159 

it was evident that Dick had excelled himself as to 
the cuisine. 

“Who’s for the beach?” asked Ned. 

“I for one,” replied Archie. 

“Count me in unless the captain wishes to go. 
Then I’ll keep camp ; but the captain declared he felt 
lazy and would remain by the boats. 

“Look out for a storm, boys. There’s one brew- 
ing,” he cautioned. 

They fought their way through all obstacles, and 
finally came out upon the beach, where they found 
the breeze strong, and already the surf roaring 
loudly. 

Archie gloried in this, and he ran about picking 
up quite a variety of marine curiosities for memen- 
toes. 

Ned did not demean himself. 

“Wait until we get on the west coast, if we ever 
do, and you’ll see shells that will make your eyes 
open. I sent home a whole barrel of them from 
Charlotte Harbor two years ago. Dozens of ships 
could be laden with them and the supply not be ex- 
hausted.” 


i6o Paddling Under Palmettos. 

‘'Do you think we can get through the Everglades 
and Lake Okeechobee, Ned?’' asked dubious Archie. 

“I am sure of it. The water, I understand, is 
higher in the Everglades than it has been at this 
season for many years, and I have Colonel Med- 
way’s map with full directions. If he could do it in 
a twenty-foot skipjack, surely we may in our ca- 
noes.” 

“It will be a great undertaking.” 

“Oh! I don’t know. We will know a good deal 
about Southern Florida when we are done, that’s 
all.” 

Archie thought he had acquired half a dozen vol- 
umes of information already, but he was ready for 
more, being of a receptive nature. 

It was grand to look out upon the sea when the 
mad waves were rolling in. The canoeists had put 
on their oilskins at the suggestion of the weather- 
wise captain, and now had good reason to feel glad 
of it, for the rain came down in bucketfuls. 

Finally they returned to camp. 

All was snug there. 

The canoes had their tents pitched, and the old 


Paddling Under Palmettos. i6i 

captain had seen that all were buttoned down, so 
that not a drop of water had entered. 

As the boats were in a sheltered nook, they felt no 
serious effect from the gale, which grew in violence 
as the day ended. 

Ned pronounced it a ‘‘corker fresh from the bat,’^ 
an expression that all understood[^ for he had long 
been connected with the famous Philadelphia 
League baseball team under the veteran, Harry 
Wright. 

The shore tent had to be changed somewhat to 
suit the gale. After all, Archie and Dick decided to 
pass the night in their boats, preferring the com- 
fort there to a crowded shelter tent, so the latter was 
left to the other couple. 

The Sea Waif and the Bet were hauled out from 
the shore and doubly anchored with room to swing 
in. 

By this time Archie had become used to sleeping 
in his canoe. He enjoyed the rocking of the little 
craft, although haunted now and then during a gale 
by the memory of that sudden awakening and alarm 
up at the mouth of the St. Sebastian. 


1 62 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

He slept like a log, and when he awoke it was 
morning. 

The storm had gone down, the sky was clear, but 
the wind still holding in the east and southeast, they 
could not have gone out over the bar, even had they 
been dreaming of such a thing. 

More fishing with the flood tide and no lack of 
fun. Archie caught a shark and held him until a 
bullet entered the monster’s brain, and he was 
beached. He thought of their acquaintance at Eden 
when he gazed upon the monster, and took a tooth 
as a trophy of his capture. 

His next adventure was with a sawfish, and it 
proved so dangerous that he did not care to try for 
these aggressive monsters any longer. 

A blow upon the long snout paralyzed the saw- 
fish just as he was about to demolish the Sea Waif in 
a hurry. 

They landed sheepshead, channel-bass, groupers, 
drumfish, crevalle, cavallia and other species of salt- 
water fish ad dnitum. 

Even Archie, with the spirit of angling as strong 
within him as ever it grew in the breast of an ardent 
devotee of the sport, wearied of such work. 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 163 

He did not call it sport, but slaughter. 

“I never went in for quantity,” he said. ''Up at 
Greenwood Lake, in New York State, made famous 
by Frank Forrester's sporting stories of 'Warwick 
Woodlands,' you remember, I enjoyed a day in my 
little cedar boat with the utmost zest, and never 
caught a fish. To me the surroundings are nine- 
tenths of the sport in angling.” 

"Well, what do you think of your surroundings 
here?” asked Dick. 

Archie looked about him and shrugged his shoul- 
ders, at which both of the others laughed, for, like 
most sportsmen who have read up Florida for years, 
he found much room for disappointment in the real 
thing. 

True, the fish, the game — everything was there 
that he had expected, and yet his surroundings were 
so different that he could not enjoy them with the 
zest anticipated. 

"If we could unite this air and these fish with our 
Northern scenery — ah! then we'd have something 
to talk about.” 

So many a sportsman has said, as, sweltering in 
the heat of a hot day, he looked down upon his pile 


164 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

of game, his mind wandering back to scenes far dif- 
ferent from the quagmires with which he was sur- 
rounded. 

The boys took a trip up the little river and found 
a wilderness. It was the best glimpse Archie had 
had of lovely Florida. 

Pushing ahead of the others under paddle alone, 
he passed under overhanging trees and surprised 
dozens of aquatic birds. Herons and cranes, blue 
and white, stalked along in the shallow water near 
the shore in search of the fish they fed upon, it be- 
ing apparently the one issue of life with them to 
eat. 

They took wing as Archie appeared upon the 
scene, their long legs sticking out behind like a fish- 
ing pole. Other birds were seen, some of which 
were of beautiful plumage. 

Alligators were plentiful, for down here they were 
out of the reach of the general tourist, who only 
went in certain lines of travel. 

Archie surprised many a sleeping fellow lying on 
a log by giving him a prod with his paddle, and 
laughed to witness the unseemly haste with which 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 165 

the reptile tumbled off his sunning spot into the 
water. 

Water-moccasins could be seen, too, their yellow 
folds flashing through the dark water of the river. 

These things become tiresome, especially when 
the adventurous explorer is constantly surrounded 
by a cloud of sand flies, and his face and neck burn- 
ing as though he had applied a mustard plaster. 

So they turned back, anxious to get to salt water 
again. 

Here they could breathe more easily. There was 
a bracing richness in the breeze and salty air that 
invigorated them. 

If they carried out their original plans and crossed 
to the gulf coast they would see all they wanted of 
the interior. Better enjoy the coast while they 
could. 

On the way back Ned suddenly snatched up his 
Winchester. 

They saw him take a quick aim and fire. Then 
came a tremendous shriek as of a demon. A dark 
body sprang through the air and alighted upon the 
forward deck of the Sachem. 

Archie had just time to see a pair of yellow 


i66 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

gleaming orbs in the bristling mass of hair and real- 
ize that it was a wounded wildcat, when again Ned’s 
rifle rang out. 

The animal was blown from the deck of the ca- 
noe into the water, where it gave a few last spas- 
modic kicks. Ned drew it to him with his paddle 
and laid it on his deck. 

‘T’ve ruined the skin, for which I’m sorry, as I 
would have been glad to have kept it,” he said, 
apologetically. 

Wildcats and panthers are to be met in the woods 
of Florida. They generally frequent dark ravines in 
the daytime, while the deer are in the open woods. 

In times past bear have been very plenty. 

They are hunted in the spring, as it is easier to 
get them then. 

One of Captain Richards’ neighbors explained to 
Archie their manner of lying for bruin. 

It seems that the black bear has a great weak- 
ness for turtle eggs, just as in other countries he has 
for honey. During the spring, at the time the green 
and loggerhead turtles come up on the beach to 
deposit their eggs, the hunter secretes himself in 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 167 

the bushes at a point where he can command a view 
of the shore. 

A moonlight night is taken if possible, although a 
reflection lantern may be used to advantage on a 
dark night. 

Presently along comes the bear, on the lookout 
for his supper. Instead he receives a deadly shot 
from the bushes. More than once, only wounded, 
he has been known to rush forward on his prey, and 
a deadly struggle ensue on the beach. 

It is a novel method of ambushing bears, and like 
success in all a woodsman’s craft could only have 
been discovered by a close study of the animal’s pe- 
culiar ways. 

The season of the year was not propitious for such 
work, but perhaps by the time they made the west 
coast it might be tried. Archie was determined to 
take a bearskin home with him, however, in case the 
opportunity qffered. 

They arrived at camp before sundown, and now 
awaited a west wind and clear sky ere attempting the 
dangerous outside run. 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 


1 68 


CHAPTER XIV. 

the: outside passage to lake worth. 

Two days passed. 

They were all that could be desired in themselves, 
with fair skies and a pleasant breeze. Still, it was 
no canoe weather over the bar at Jupiter. 

Such a run, although short, was extremely dan- 
gerous. There would probably be a certain amount 
of surf, caused by the tide rolling over the shallows, 
and to avoid this wash they must go about half a 
mile out, and then keep down the coast. 

At last the time came. 

They were electrified to hear the old captain de- 
clare that all things were as favorable as could be 
expected. True, there was some surf over the bar, 
but this only afforded a chance for a lovely little 
run. 

Young fellows with such natures as theirs natur- 
ally love excitement, and here was an opportunity. 

Everything was made ready. 

Archie may have been full of suppressed excite- 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 169 

merit, but he did not show any sign of it either in 
looks or actions. Systematicaly he prepared the 
Sea Waif for her first run outside. They would have 
more of it if they concluded to go on to Biscayne 
Bay so as to ascend the Miami River. It was just as 
well to prepare for emergencies. 

^‘All ready?” cried Ned. 

‘'Ay, ay!” called the others. 

“Then up anchors and away.” 

It had been arranged that they were to go two 
abreast, for several reasons, the principal of which 
was the fact that they might be able to be of as- 
sistance to each other in case of accident. 

Archie and Dick brought up the rear. 

The Sea Waif having had her rig completely al- 
tered by the old lake captain, now worked beauti- 
fully, and her skipper had been charmed by the way 
she made up into the eye of the wind. 

He could lay his course nearer the wind than any 
of his companions, and hence the remark of the cap- 
tain to the effect that properly rigged the boat would 
outpoint any of their craft, was realized. 

Just now, however, this did not matter one iota. 
Her Weatherly qualities were what would save her 


1 70 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

skipper from a ducking, added, of course, to his good 
seamanship. 

The four little craft of the mosquito fleet went 
over the bar in gallant style. Archie found the Sea 
Waif rushing through the seething, tumbling water. 
How big the waves seemed, now that he was among 
them. 

He could hear a trumpet blown from the light- 
house, as if to encourage them, and was the only one 
who got hold of his battered horn to send back a 
response. 

For a brief space of time he was in the midst of 
foaming waters. They even washed his deck, but 
the coaming around the cockpit and the canvas 
apron he had drawn about him, prevented any drops 
from entering the boat. 

Then he passed beyond. His boat still rose and 
fell upon the rollers, but he had gone beyond the 
bar. 

All were safe. 

The wind was in the northwest and blowing a gen- 
tle sailing breeze. Things could not have been more 
propitious, and yet all of them had experienced the 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 17 1 

sudden changes in Florida weather, and knew that 
these things might not be depended on. 

In ten minutes, with a change of tide the wind 
might pass to the north and then east, kicking up a 
terrible sea, in which such diminutive craft would 
have small chances for living. 

Under such distressing circumstances they had 
already formed their plans. 

They would take no chances. As soon as the 
wind veered to east of north, and without waiting 
for the sea to come up, they would turn their boats 
toward the shore and beach them. 

The canoes could be carried beyond the reach of 
the waves, and a camp made back in the scrub, 
where they could await a favorable turn in the wind 
ere continuing their voyage to Lake Worth. 

It was well to provide for emergencies, even 
though such occasions might not arise. 

The wind remained west of north, and they had 
a delightful run of ten miles or so. 

Archie enjoyed it perhaps more because it was 
his first canoe trip outside, and there was a tingling 
of the nerves, produced by excitement, while the 


172 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

voyage lasted, to think of such mere cockle-shells 
upon the heaving bosom of the mighty ocean. 

Finally they sighted Lake Worth Inlet. 

The observations taken from the lighthouse tower 
at Jupiter and the directions obtained from the 
keeper were now valuable, and they ran the bar 
neatly, for their craft drew very little water. 

All of them kept well to the south in making the 
inlet, as is habitual along the coast, as the bar makes 
out from the northern end. To be plainer, when ap- 
proaching from the north it is well to thoroughly 
‘‘open’’ the inlet before attempting to enter. The 
same can be applied to the St. Sebastian and other 
streams emptying into the Indian River, the bar al- 
ways lying to the north. 

The quartette of cruisers passed over the bar in 
fine style. This inlet had been made by the settlers 
themselves, for it was not a great many years ago 
that Lake Worth was a fresh-water lake, fed by 
small streams and water from the swamps. Now it 
is a fine sheet of salt water, with all the fish to be 
found at the inlets, and even oysters at one end. 

The inlet is near the upper end. Here the water 
is more shallow than further down, and one has to 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 173 

be careful when his boat draws more than a foot, 
for stumps and other impediments to navigation 
abound, so the canoeists had been told, although 
they did not discover these things by experience. 

They sailed down the lake and soon drew up on 
the western shore. 

Their appearance was greeted with cheers on the 
part of the hospitable people, who wondered to look 
upon such dainty and small craft. Sharpies and 
shipjacks they were accustomed to see enter the 
lake, for these boats possess weatherly qualities that 
make them safe even in bad weather outside the 
bar, but never before had four little canoes braved 
the perils of the deep and come sailing down the 
lake flying their club token, and the burgee of the 
A. C. A. 

Our young friends made themselves quite at home 
— indeed, so hospitable were the good people of 
Lake Worth they could not well have done other- 
wise. 

Nothing was refused them. Presents of fruits 
and vegetables were forced upon them from all sides, 
and Dick declared they would have to leave Lake 
Worth or be spoiled. 


174 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

Their evenings around the camp-fire were jolly 
ones. 

They had many visitors, many of them ladies, and 
until late in the night both Dick and Ned were kept 
busy singing their songs, the whole party joining 
in the chorus. 

The favorite with all was probably ‘‘White 
Wings,” which Ned’s baritone rendered in a strik- 
ing manner, and the chorus rolled grandly over the 
water; but there was a deep interest maintained in 
Dick’s shanty, which, from the recollections asso- 
ciated with it of pleasant camp-fires and still more 
pleasant company, I give here verbatim. 

He called it 


OLD MOHEA. 

Once more with flowing northerly gales 
We’re bounding o’er the main, 

Those verdant hills of the tropic isles 
We soon shall see again. 

Five sluggish moons have waxed and waned 
Since from those shores sailed we, 

But now we’re bound from the Arctic ground, 
Rolling down to the old Mohea. 

CHORUS. 

Rolling down to old Mohea, my boys. 

Rolling down to old Mohea. 

We’re once more bound from the Arctic ground. 
Rolling down to old Mohea. 


Paddling Under Palmettos, 


•75 


Thro’ many a blow of rain and snow 
And bitter squall of hail, 

When masts were bent and canvas rent, 

We braved the Northern gale. 

Those snowy piles of ice-girt isles 
That deck the Arctic sea 
Are many and many a league astern, 

As we steer for old Mohea. 

CHORUS. 

Thro’ vapors’ dawn with the rising sun 
Old “Niger” rolls away, 

Or sleeps in the mist, by moonbeams kissed. 

On the waves of St. Lawrence Bay: 

For many a day we have toiled away 
On that wild Kamtchatka Sea, 

And as we toiled we chatted and sung 
Of the girls of old Mohea. 

CHORUS. 

Up thro’ the land where the iceberg looms. 

Up thro’ the wastes of snow. 

With rigging and sail all coated with ice 
When the bitter blasts do blow; 

With a hurricane on our weather-bow 
And breakers on our lee, 

It seemed the blast, as it whistled past. 

Brought tidings from old Mohea. 

CHORUS. 

Oh ! I love that land, with its fragrant breeze, 
Its odors fresh and rare. 

Its verdant glades and sunny maids 
That are ever kind and fair. 

There even now bright eyes look forth 
Each day in hopes to see 
Our snow-white sail before the gale 
Rolling down to old Mohea. 


CHORUS. 


176 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

An ample share of toil and wear 
We seamen undergo, 

But when it’s o’er what do we care 
How hard the blast may blow ? 

For homeward bound is a joyful sound, 

Though as yet it may not be — 

But we’ll think of that as we laugh and chat 
With the girls of old Mohea. 

CHORUS. 

No song of the sea ever sounds one-half as full of 
melody sung in a parlor or concert room as out upon 
the water or when a party of jolly spirits are gath- 
ered around a camp-fire. 

There is a charm and melody to the stirring- 
words, an enchantment that hangs upon one until 
the last quivering note dies away in the woods and 
over the water, followed by the intense silence of 
Nature. None but those who have been there can 
appreciate this truth. 

They had a chance while at Lake Worth to go on 
several hunts. 

The captain got his deer, shooting the little buck 
straight through the heart. It was while out on this 
trip that Archie had an experience he was apt to 
remember. 

While crossing a stretch of country in order to 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 177 

reach a ravine where he had been given to under- 
stand there was a chance of finding either deer or 
turkeys he accidentally trod upon a small rattler. 

Like a flash the reptile had struck at him, and 
Archie received such a shock as he had never before 
experienced. Nevertheless he retained his presence 
of mind, and with one terrific kick he sent the reptile 
flying. 

Before it could recover from the stunning force 
with which it had brought up against a tree near by 
he placed his gun close to its head, and with the re- 
port the rattler’s head was blown to atoms. 

With trembling hands Archie unbuckled his 
leather leggins — every Florida sportsman ought to 
wear leggins as a protection against snakes and 
thorns, though heavy knee-boots are about as good, 
if cumbersome. 

Heaven was kind. At the very point where the 
snake’s fangs had struck, his pants had been doubled 
over, making three thicknesses, besides drawers and 
leather leggins. There was not the faintest scratch 
upon his leg. 

Archie breathed a prayer of thanks. The en- 
counter made him extremely nervous for a day or 


1 78 Paddling Under Palmettos. 


two. If anything touched him, however acci- 
dentally, he would give a start as though shot. 

And yet he did not turn back, but kept on his way 
to the ravine, although he walked as if on eggs, and 
his eyes were more on the lookout for snakes than 
turkeys. 

Luck was with him, for he came upon a hand- 
some gobbler, which had answered his “call,’’ and 
when Archie let him have one of his buckshot cart- 
ridges, the distance being fully a hundred yards, Mr. 
Turkey yielded himself a “prisoner, rescue or no 
rescue.” 

Retracing his steps, he took the dead rattler also 
into camp. The boys declared he had had a very 
narrow escape, and Ned assisted him to skin the rep- 
tile. 

“Some time when you wear a pair of slippers 
made out of that same skin, and are toasting your 
shins before a comfortable grate fire, while the cold 
wintry wind roars outside, you will remember all wc 
passed through down here, and feel a pang of pity 
for such cruisers as we of the old Red Jacket Club.” 

They all laughed at Ned’s words. 

Nevertheless the incident was impressed on their 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 179 

minds, and they felt that from this time on they 
would have to be more careful how they tramped 
the jungle where so many hidden perils lurked. 

The days passed pleasantly, and the evenings were 
one round of amusement, for around a roaring 
camp-fire, with the canoes pulled up on the shore, 
they sang and joked, and listened to the captain’s 
droll yarns of past experience, until the waning 
stars warned them that it was time to seek their 
couches. 

Dick, from force of habit, persisted in sleeping 
aboard the Bet each night, but the others took to 
the tent shelter, such as it was, and in front of which 
burned their fire. 

ITiey soon came to the end of their stay, and be- 
gan to get ready for the still more perilous outside 
passage to Biscayne Bay. 

Archie had learned all he could at the lake, and 
was ready to go on. 

It would be their last outside trip. If they reached 
this place in safety, they meant to ascend the Miami 
River, and by means of the map possessed by the 
party, cross the Everglades to Lake Okeechobee, an 
amazingly bold enterprise for such diminutive craft. 


i8o Paddling Under Palmettos. 

There was an unpleasant feature to the case — the 
chance of losing themselves in that great wilderness. 
They looked at such a possibility with calm delibera- 
tion, and were not alarmed. 

When there seemed to be a prospect of the wind 
shifting to the west or northwest, according to the 
signs read by the old captain, they bade their good 
friends farewell, and accompanied by their best 
wishes, set sail. 

Arriving near the inlet, they found that the time 
was not propitious for crossing, and hence came to 
anchor. 

About ten o’clock the tide was full. With it came 
a calm. Then the wind began to pull out of the 
northwest. 

This suited them beautifully, and they made the 
run over the bar in gallant style. 

They were not alone. A sharpie owned by Char- 
lie Moore accompanied them, being bound also for 
Biscayne Bay, with two men aboard. 

There was now a run of some hours before them, 
the dangers of which were not to be treated lightly. 
Going to sea in a canoe only thirty-one inches beam 
by fifteen feet in length, is not the safest thing in the 


Paddling Under Palmettos. i8i 

world, especially along the Florida shore, where the 
wind is changeable to an extraordinary degree. 

Archie's nerves were strung to their highest point, 
but he sat his boat like a veteran and kept along with 
the other cruisers. 


1 82 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 


CHAPTER XV. 

be:aching the sea waie through the sure. 

The wind was strong. It came from the north- 
west, and being very favorable, once they had 
crossed the bar and were out upon the open sea, 
bowled them along at a merry rate. 

At times the canoes rolled somewhat, but on the 
whole they made remarkable time, and were soon 
putting miles behind them. 

Noon came. 

It found the little fleet still flying down the coast. 
Archie was near his friend Dick, but they only 
called out a few words now and then. 

Would the wind hold out long enough to take 
them to the Hillsboro’? 

This was a question of the greatest importance, 
since it was to be by all odds the longest run they 
would have outside, being some forty miles, a dis- 
tance they had never yet made in a day. 

As the hours passed on, however, they began to 
believe that after all they were destined to be fa- 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 183 

vored. The breeze had sent them a score of miles 
on their way. 

At about one o’clock they sighted a building on 
the shore. 

This was House of Refuge No. 3. 

Archie had seen No. i, not far from Sebastian, on 
the strip of land between the Indian River and the 
sea. No. 2 was situated about opposite Waveland, 
at Gilbert’s bar, just below where the new Santa Lu- 
cia inlet has of more recent years been opened 
through the enterprise of the pineapple growers 
along the coast. Here shipwrecked mariners could 
be taken care of in their time of trouble. 

The favorable breeze still held out, and they be- 
gan to hope that the whole forty miles would be 
made without trouble. 

The old captain looked over his shoulder pretty 
often, and it was evident that he at least had some 
fears of a change. There were perhaps ten miles to 
be sailed, and it was two o’clock in the afternoon. 

Archie all at once became aware that his progress 
had changed — he was no longer making such fast 
time. 

When he turned to the others he found they were 


184 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

at his side. Then it must be that the wind was 
slacking. 

That was rather a singular thing at this time of 
the day, and might mean much, especially as a low 
bank of clouds seemed to be gathering along the 
horizon. 

Did this mean a storm? 

In spite of his fortitude and bravery, Archie felt 
a thrill of alarm at the prospect. To be caught out- 
side in a gale meant sure destruction. 

He had loved ones at home, and his mind often 
turned to them. For their sakes he had promised 
himself not to take any risks that could well be 
avoided. 

And yet Archie was not the one to speak at a 
time like this. Had he been alone, he would have 
headed at once for the shore and beached his boat, 
drawing the little craft far up beyond the reach of 
the waves. While in the company of his fellow- 
cruisers no word of alarm from him would be uttered 
that could swerve them in any choice of movement. 

From certain short talks he heard pass between 
his companions he realized that they were debating 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 185 

the chances they had of reaching Hillsboro’ Inlet be- 
fore the storm came or the wind died out. 

From what he heard, he made up his mind that 
the chances were about even, and this was not a 
very encouraging prospect. 

Meanwhile the breeze was slowly but surely dying 
out. Their progress became slower and slower, un- 
til they rolled upon the swell with hardly any per- 
ceptible headway. 

This looked serious. 

They were still several miles from their destina- 
tion. What was to be done? 

As veteran canoeists, Ned and Dick did not have 
to ask that question twice. 

They must start what is sometimes known as a 
"spruce breeze.” 

Out came the paddles. 

The sharpie seemed to catch some breeze away up 
near the tops of her tall masts, and was half a mile 
ahead, making very good time down the coast. 

Under this new influence the mosquito fleet began 
to move again. All they hoped for now was that 
the wind would hold off. If it was going to be un- 
favorable when it came, far better that it kept away. 


i86 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 


They worked like Trojans, but in their excitement 
seemed to move like snails. 

The air began to thicken, as though flying mist 
had descended. With this there sprang up a breeze, 
but it was northwest. 

At the same time the low-lying clouds along the 
horizon began to come up. The storm was ap- 
proaching. 

It now became intensely interesting, for between 
the two possible results it seemed nip and tuck. 
Would they make the inlet or be swamped? 

Archie thought their chances were very small. 
He would have been willing to have tossed up a 
penny and abide by the result, for with the rising 
wind the sea became rough and the little craft were 
washed about like corks in a gale. 

In spite of this they hoisted sail, reefed of course, 
and moved on, with constantly increasing momen- 
tum, until presently it seemed to promise a race for 
life ; for the boats were half under part of the time, 
and their skippers hanging out well to windward. 

At times they even lost sight of each other, and 
the sharpie had long since passed beyond their range 
of vision. 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 187 

They had arranged beforehand a code of signals. 
Dick was to give them, or Ned if he chanced to be in 
advance. 

Archie was comparatively alone, for he had only 
seen his companions once in the last five minutes, 
when he chanced to be on the top of a billow at the 
same time as they were. 

Was it of any use for him to keep on? 

He could not know when they were opposite Hills- 
boro River Inlet, and hence he might even pass it. 

Besides, the wind was constantly rising, and the 
sea becoming more boisterous with each passing 
minute. Ere long it would be fully as dangerous to 
attempt to beach the canoe as to stay out where 
he now was and outlast the storm. 

What then? 

Evidently the Sea Waif must go ashore. 

No more time must be lost in following a hope- 
less game, but he must beach the canoe while there 
still remained a chance of doing so with some show 
of success. 

He had hardly made up his mind to this and was 
recalling all the directions that had been given him 
for use at such a trying time — for Archie had never 


i88 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

yet beached a canoe through the surf — when he 
caught a strange sound. 

It came back from leeward, and seemed for all the 
world like the braying of a donkey. 

Archie knew that sound. 

It was Dick’s battered fog horn — whenever he 
wished to introduce a new key he was wont to ham- 
mer the poor old thing upon the gunwale of the ca- 
noe. 

The racket was answered by Ned with two blasts, 
while Archie signified that he heard and understood 
by sending three blasts to leeward, and presently the 
captain was heard from. 

The signaling was intended to inform them all that 
to continue on was us'eless. Each daring canoeist 
was expected to stow his sail, head his boat for the 
shore, and paddle the best he knew how. 

Archie thrilled with the thought. The danger 
was greater, staying out half a mile from the shore, 
as an upset meant death, but the excitement of go- 
ing in on a giant roller was something to stir the 
blood. 

To stow his sail was the first job, and he found it 
a difficult one. 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 189 

He was wet through with the spray, but had not 
dared to don his oilskins, for fear of finding them 
heavy in case of being thrown out of his boat. 

The sail was finally secured, although he had two 
nasty seas strike him that came very near causing 
a capsize. His double paddle was handy, and he 
picked it up. To turn the Sea Waif shoreward was 
easily accomplished, and then he began to use the 
paddle vigorously. 

No longer was he rolling in the trough of the sea, 
but after dipping and rising upon a huge billow, he 
started in. 

Talk about your toboggan-ride — its excitement 
could never equal that of riding a giant roller in a 
frail cedar canoe. 

With incredible swiftness Archie shot toward the 
beach. He could see everything now — the beach, 
the surf, and his intended course. Would he pass 
along it in safety? That could only be told by ex- 
perience. 

Even at such a time Archie had found a chance 
to cast a swift glance around him, and he smiled to 
see the whole three of his companions riding a 
white-maned horse in the race for the beach. 


190 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

There was no time to see more, for the Sea Waif 
had reached the spot where the surf began. 

All around him Archie saw the water bubbling 
and boiling and frothing. He set his teeth hard and 
went at it. 

By this time he had found out how to manipulate 
the boat in order to keep upon the crest of the wave. 
The tendency was to fall behind, and had this been 
done he would have been swamped by that monster 
following so closely in his rear. 

A roaring filled his ears. He paddled as though 
in a race, every muscle being exerted, his eyes on 
the watch to observe everything. 

The speed with which he was hurried through this 
whirlpool of waters was really astonishing, and yet 
though the time that passed could be counted by 
seconds, to him it was ages, and he remembered 
every little incident as plainly as though it had been 
indelibly stamped upon his mind. 

Dipping his paddle in deep, he urged the gallant 
little bark on. 

Thus far all had been well. Now came the really 
dangerous part of the trip, for around him were 
foamy waters. A confused roaring was in his ears 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 19 1 

— it seemed as though he were mounted upon a huge 
tidal wave and being borne through a mill race. 

This could not last forever. 

The bubbling and rushing sound gave way to 
others, and he knew he was nearing the beach, when 
his tactics must be changed. 

Water had swept his deck, but the canvas apron 
drawn closely around him had saved him from being 
swamped, for this would surely have happened in the 
midst of that boiling sea. 

Onward he was borne. 

The billow upon whose snowy crest he had ridden 
into the surf carried him up far along the beach. 
When he found that he could touch bottom with his 
paddle he sprung out of the boat, and seizing hold 
of the foremast drew the Sea Waif up beyond the 
reach of the next billow. 

Hurrah ! He had accomplished the task in safety. 
The Sea Waif was beached ! 

Archie now recovered his breath and turned to 
discover how his comrades fared. 

The captain was near him, tugging at his boat, 
which, being heavier than the others, was harder to 
beach. 


192 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 


Archie ran to help him 

Just then he saw Ned some distance below and 
working the Sachem up on the sand. 

Between them they got the captain's boat high up 
beyond the water’s reach. 

Where was Dick? 

Could it be possible that he had met with an ac- 
cident? Such things will happen to the best of men, 
whether veteran canoeists or novices. The turn of 
a wrist may bring about a catastrophe, or avoid it, 
and at such times as these the mind has to think like 
a flash and the hand be quick to obey. 

Still none of them could believe Dick had been 
swamped. 

Anxiously they looked up and down the shore 
where the wild waves were breaking, and then a 
welcome sound broke upon their ears. It was the 
toot-toot of Dick’s fog horn. 

“There he comes!” laughed Ned. 

Looking out, Archie saw the gallant Bet sweeping 
in upon the crest of a billow larger than any that 
had preceded it. Just like Dick to wait for such a 
monster. 

Archie fairly held his breath as he watched his 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 193 

friend come in. Dick sprang overboard at the right 
moment and speedily snatched the faithful Bet from 
the jaws of the hungry waters. 

‘‘Hip, hip, hurrah ! All safe !” he called. 

“Everything is lovely.” 

“And the goose hangs high.” 

They now proceeded to lift the boats one at a 
time, and carry them to a point where the waves 
could never reach them, after performing which 
duty they found time to look around and see what 
manner of place they had reached. 

It did not differ in any material respect from other 
spots with which they had become familiar. There 
were palmetto trees back of the beach, and under 
these they could make a camp. 

Perhaps an hour still remained of daylight, and 
working with a will they got their camp in order. 
None too soon were the boats carried up and tilted 
over to form a shield against the wind, with the 
canvas and sails fastened so as to shelter them from 
the rain. 

The storm came howling down, and with it the 
rain. In torrents fell the latter, but our cruisers had 
taken time by the forelock. Their tent being cov- 


194 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

ered with rubber blankets, did not leak a drop, and 
even the wind was kept out fairly well, so that it was 
very comfortable. 

The canoes were also close at hand, and arranged 
so as to form a wind-break. 

Some trouble being experienced in keeping a fire 
for the heavy rain that fell, they banked it down and 
sheltered it from the dripping water, so that it could 
be resuscitated later. 

This placed their supper in jeopardy, and hence 
Archie, clad in his oilskins, brought a little Hamme 
force lamp to the rescue. 

In one way or another they managed to get 
enough to eat, but it was trying work. 

There are always some such occasions that arise 
during a trip. Good cruisers and companions tide 
over these difficulties with laughter and much joking. 
At times a joke is the best tonic a man can take. 
That is why camping out agrees so well with most 
fellows. They are forced to be congenial, and can- 
not get alone to brood over business, with its 
many troubles. 

Meanwhile the storm raged furiously. 

Later on they donned oilskins and went to the 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 195 

beach to look out upon the raging ocean. It was 
a sight such as Archie would not likely soon forget. 
Flashes of lightning illumined the picture, and away 
out could be seen the tumultous waste of tossing 
waters, foam-crested and lashed by the fury of the 
tempest. 

How terrible they looked ! Upon that heaving sea 
their canoes could not have lived five minutes, and 
it would have been only short of a miracle to reach 
the beach with them except in splinters. 

Lucky indeed were they to have come ashore at 
the proper time. 

‘‘Look! Was that a vessel?” shouted Ned. 

He pointed far out, and with the next flash they 
strained their eyes to see. 

A spectre bark could be faintly distinguished run- 
ning under bare poles for the south. Then the 
gloom hid her. When the electric fluid again 
illumined the scene they looked for her in vain. 
Some curtain of mist had swallowed the vessel, and 
she had vanished as completely as though engulfed 
in old ocean's maw. 

After enjoying the strange sight and watching the 
huge billows hurl themselves upon the beach with 


196 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

the foice of tremendous machinery, so that one had 
to shout in order to be heard above the din, they 
concluded to return to camp and make all snug for 
the night. 

There was a prospect of the storm being a short- 
lived one. 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 


197 


CHAPTER XVI. 

BRUIN RECEIVES A WARM RECEPTION. 

An hour later Archie discovered that the rain had 
ceased. The wind still continued but the clouds had 
been riven, and the bright stars peeped forth. 

The storm was over. 

They passed the night comfortably, all things con- 
sidered, being old enough campaigners, and up to 
the many little tricks that come into play on such oc- 
casions. Besides, they were possessed of the phil- 
osophical spirit that takes things just as they come 
and makes no complaint. 

The fire was easily resuscitated, and before its 
cheerful blaze they chatted and told yarns of past ad- 
ventures. 

Strange things some of them had seen, and such 
stories always lose half their flavor when told away 
from the camp-fire's ruddy glow. 

They had been wise enough to save quite a supply 
of dry pine knots, and some of these pitched upon 
the fire made a flame that, for intensity of light and 


198 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

heat, Archie had never seen equaled. This South- 
ern pine beats the world for firewood, its only bad 
quality being smoke. 

Thus the night passed away. 

Morning broke bright and clear. The wind still 
held from the east, and the surf was running very 
high. 

There was no possibility of launching their boats 
upon such a sea, and it would probably be some 
days ere they could do so. Much as they disliked 
the necessity of this inaction, they could not help it. 

Ned sat down to examine his map of the region to 
see where they were stranded. Suddenly the others 
heard him give utterance to a loud cry. 

'‘What’s the matter?” asked Dick. 

“Matter enough. Come here.” 

They gathered around him. 

“You remember this small creek just back of the 
palmettos yonder, which we were surprised to see 
so close to the beach?” 

“Yes.” 

“I have discovered beyond a doubt that it is a trib- 
utary to the Hillsboro’ River, and that by launching 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 199 

our boats on it we can paddle or sail down to the 
river, regardless of the wind or the surf outside.” 

^‘Hurrah for the inside passage!” 

They followed Ned upon the map. There could 
be no mistake. He proved to them, first of all, just 
where they were, and this was done so as to dispel 
every doubt. 

Then he followed the line of the stream just be- 
yond the hommock until it joined the river. 

‘That settles it.” 

“Ye^. Who made that map, Ned?” 

‘T got it from a gentleman at Lake Worth. He 
said he had surveyed this region thoroughly with a 
view to using the information some day in selling it 
to the Government, as a chart had never been made 
of this section of coast; but had given up the idea.” 

‘Tt is presumably correct, then.” 

“He declared it to be accurate.” 

“We will have to trust to him.” 

“Yes. Fellows, now for a portage.” 

The distance was short, and they carried all their 
dufile over first, after which came the boats. 

When the latter had all been launched upon the 
dark waters of the creek, the cruisers began to pack 


200 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

again. Knowing just exactly where every article 
went by this time, they experienced little trouble in 
stowing things away. 

Then lunch was the order of the day, in which all 
took a hand. A stew soon sent its savory odor up 
among the palmetto leaves. Archie attended to the 
coffee, and opened another can of milk, while Dick 
toasted some bread brought from the lake. 

At half-past twelve all was finished. 

‘‘All aboard !” cried Dick. 

Three minutes later the mosquito fleet was mov- 
ing down the creek. It was too narrow to use sails, 
and the spruce, single-blade paddle was brought into 
play. 

As they proceeded the creek became rapidly 
wider, after the manner of most Florida streams, 
until quite a fine breeze ruffled the water. Unable 
to stand it any longer, they raised their bunting and 
stood down the water course. 

It was devious in its course and took them some 
distance from the coast, but, as long as the wind 
remained favorable, they cared naught for this. 

Finally those in the lead gave a shout. The 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 201 

others understood that the Hillsboro’ was at hand, 
and in five minutes they were floating on its bosom. 

Plainly they could hear the boom of the surf, but 
the white-caps were out of sight. 

“This is what I call luck,” said Archie, enthusias- 
tically. 

“It is a thousand times better than hanging out 
upon the coast there, where we got that searching 
wind,” answered Ned. 

They were one and all ready to acknowledge this. 
Being far enough from the coast line the trees broke 
the force of that keen wind rushing in from the 
northeast, and rendered their position comfortable. 

They paddled along until the position they wanted 
was discovered, when they drew the boats upon the 
shore and proceeded to make a new camp. 

In this way the balance of the day was passed, but 
what cared they? The sun was warm, and they felt 
comfortable. 

Archie, seized with a desire to fish, got his heavy 
bass tackle in readiness. Then, entering the little 
dinghy which the captain towed behind his boat — a 
seven-foot Douglass folding canoe — he paddled 
along the river. 


202 


Paddling, Under Palmettos. 


Presently he had a strike, for he was trolling a 
Hill spoon made for the purpose of Florida fishing. 
Then came a short tussle, which ended with his 
using the gaff and landing an eight-pound, big- 
mouth bass. A little further and he took in a second 
one out of the wet. 

He had not started out to troll, however, and, as 
the evening was now close at hand, he changed the 
spoon for a single fly — a coachman. 

With this he cast over the shallow places and 
wherever he thought it likely the bass would be in 
hiding. 

They did not take to it very well, and he only se- 
cured one — a small fellow. 

Then Archie thought of a plan that had been used 
in Florida more than a hundred years to lure the 
bass, but which seems as taking to-day as in the 
times of Ponce de Leon or any other ancient worthy 
who might, after a fashion, have tried its alluring 
qualities. 

He took out a peculiar-looking object. 

This was nothing more nor less than a set of three 
stout hooks soldered together back to back, and 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 203 

then concealed in a bunch of gaudy feathers, and 
hair from a deer. 

The triple hook was fastened to a stout piece of 
cord about three feet in length, and the other end of 
this secured to a long pole which Archie cut, not car- 
ing to use his bass rod for such a purpose. 

Selecting a place where tall reeds and grass grew 
along near the shore, he glided in his little dinghy 
and began “bobbing,” as this style of fishing is 
known down South. 

The bunch of hair and feathers was allowed to 
touch the surface of the water now and then with a 
light, skipping movement. 

Then the bass, hiding among the reeds and lying 
in wait for his prey, would rush out and make a leap 
above the surface of the water at the tantalizing ob- 
ject, probably taking it for a tidbit in the shape of 
a juicy moth. 

Generally he succeeded in catching it, and was 
then yanked along the water to the boat without 
ceremony. 

Archie’s experiment was an immense success, and 
he had all the fun he wanted in about ten minutes. 


Then he desisted. 


204 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

“I’m not a fishmonger,” he said, as he looked at 
the pile of flapping bass in his boat, “and I know 
when I’ve got enough.” 

He did not like “bobbing.” It might do for a lazy 
“Cracker,” whose sole object was a desire to secure 
fish for dinner, but he preferred less fish and more 
sport. 

No one could ever induce him to try this method 
of fishing again. On the way back to camp he 
whipped the stream with a fly, and succeeded in tak- 
ing two good-sized “green trout,” as they call the 
black bass down South, both of which he tossed back 
again to their native element, they being uninjured. 

All was comfortable that night. Their camp-fire 
being made with some slabs they found near by, 
some person having carried them up from the beach 
for burning, was very comfortable, indeed. 

All of them but Dick slept ashore. 

I He seemed to prefer his boat, as he knew just how 
everything lay there. Besides, he enjoyed the 
swinging movement of the little canoe, rocking 
upon the waves, and no doubt slept more comforta- 
bly there than the others on the shore. 

Every night on shore now they had to rig up a 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 2015 

bar made of coarse cheese-cloth, for the mosquitoes 
were gathering. These pests with punkies, sand 
flies, and fleas, made camp life in the Pelican State 
one of misery at times. 

Even the balmy air cannot offset the discomfort 
wrought by them. Of course, they are found every- 
where in America, except in high latitudes, where 
the mountains rear their heads. In no place are 
they worse at certain seasons than in Canada and 
New Brunswick. It is a fallacy to believe that mos- 
quitoes are only natives of the tropical countries. 

Morning again. Ned had arisen with the dawn 
and paddled down near the mouth of the river, where 
he could learn how the weather stood. 

He came back under full sail just as the others had 
breakfast ready, and announced that there appeared 
to be no chance of their leaving that day at least. 
The wind had got around to southeast by east, but 
the sea was very high. 

So they concluded to take things just as com- 
fortably as they could. 

During the morning Archie and the captain went 
down in their boats near the mouth of the river fish- 
ing. 


2o6 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

They had wonderful success. The sharks gave 
them much trouble, snapping off a fish before they 
could haul it in, and finally the captain swore to have 
revenge. 

He rigged a shark-hook to a chain about three 
feet in length, and then rove this latter to a hempen 
line almost as thick as an ordinary clothesline. 
Upon the shore at the point he drove in a stout 
stake, which he called a snubbing post. 

Baiting the hook with a five-pound channel bass, 
he and Archie paddled out a short distance and 
threw it overboard. 

When the Sea Waif was half-way to the land 
Archie heard a shout. 

The captain already had a shark, which was quick 
work, indeed. 

In vain did the furious monster endeavor to tear 
away — hook, swivel, chain, and rope held firmly 
enough. The captain would have been pulled into 
the water but for the snubbing post. Around this 
he had quickly taken a turn with the rope, and thus 
kept a check on the shark, allowing him to go but 
slowly. 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 207 

When Archie sprang upon the sand and hurried to 
his side the shark was in part exhausted by its strug- 
gles. 

They took hold of the rope and began to haul 
their prey ashore by walking away with it. 

Despite the struggles of the great sea-tiger, it was 
drawn up to the beach, where a blow from a heavy 
club provided for that purpose dispatched it. 

Now it was Archie's turn. 

The captain baited the hook and went out with 
the line. Hardly had he thrown it overboard than it 
was seized and bodily carried off. 

Archie saw the line uncoiling, and had just time 
to make two casts around the stake when the shark 
seemed to feel the steel, for the rope flew out with 
great rapidity. 

Then there was a shock, but the post had been 
well planted, and it held firm. 

Archie had all he wanted to do, however, to hold 
the monster. It rushed back and forth, making a 
great wake in the water. 

‘‘Surely that ain’t a shark. It must be a whale,” 
thought Archie. 


2 o 8 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

“I think it’s a jewfish,” said the captain, now 
coming up. 

“What’s a jewfish?” 

“Wait and see. We’ll get him ashore.” 

This was easier said than done. They worked for 
an hour at the marine monster, but by degrees his 
struggles grew less, although he still continued to 
give his captors trouble. 

At last they were able to haul him up on the sand, 
but it required the aid of both the others, who, at- 
tracted by the shouts of the toilers, came down the 
river. 

The jewfish was as big around as a hogshead, 
and something of that build — about as ugly a mon- 
ster as they had ever gazed on. 

Archie had had all he desired of this heavy fish- 
ing. His hands were sore from pulling at the rope. 
It was too much like working for a living ; and then 
the monsters — could they compare at all with a trim, 
small-mouth bass, or the beautiful speckled trout of 
cold Northern waters? He thought not. 

Returning to camp, they lay around discussing the 
prospects of the future. Ned had been examining 
his map again, and learned that by following a cer- 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 209 

tain branch of the river it would take them a num- 
ber of miles on their way south. 

When they reached a certain point they could 
make a short portage, and camp upon the beach, 
ready to go on as soon as the wind and sea would 
allow them. 

They talked the matter over, and it was decided 
that, as the day was so far advanced, there was no 
use of moving then, but, should things not look more 
favorable in the morning, they would attempt it. 

The captain took his Winchester and went off for 
deer. He had always been passionately fond of 
deerstalking, and in the past had slain dozens of 
the animals up in the North Woods of Michigan. 

Around the camp the others were lounging, tak- 
ing it easy upon the white sand. 

Suddenly one of them gave a shout : 

''A bear! a bear!” 

Consternation ensued. Sure enough, there was a 
black bear in the camp. How the marauder had 
come there it might be hard to say, but just then it 
was difficult to tell which was the more surprised, the 
bear or the young cruisers. 


210 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

Arcnie made for the shelter. His gun lay just 
within, and he experienced a savage exultation in 
the thought that there were now buckshot shells in 
the little Parker. 

Ned had fallen over a log. 

As he arose to his feet he grasped a hatchet in his 
hand, which he had found. As for Dick, he elevated 
his arms and cried “shoo 

Finding the animal would not move a step, either 
because he was frightened, or else stubborn, Dick 
snatched up a tin basin and dipped it full of boiling 
water from a pot that swung over the fire. 

By this time Archie’s eager hand had clutched 
his gun. He stood there, but hesitated about firing. 

“Shall I shoot, Dick?” 

“Yes. Aim just behind the fore-shoulder, and 
give him both barrels.” 

That bear was surprised in another moment. So 
was Archie. When the latter recovered from the 
violent shock of firing both barrels so near together 
that the recoil was as of one, he looked toward the 
bear. 

At the moment of firing Ned had hurled his camp 
ax, and Dick had sent his basin of hot water flying, 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 21 1 

so that between them all poor bruin was in a bad way 
indeed. 

He went down as though a log, and by the time 
Archie had slipped other shells in the place of the 
discharged ones, and the whole party had advanced, 
the bear was suspiciously still. 

An examination showed a terrible hole back of his 
foreleg, which was also broken. Death must have 
ensued instantly. Twenty-four buckshot at short 
range make a fearful wound. 

Archie could scarcely credit his senses — he had 
actually killed a bear ! 

True, Ned claimed some of the honor, for the 
heavy camp ax had struck bruin fair and square in 
the head, but no one could doubt tl e agency of his 
death when they looked at the gaping hole in his 
side, although Dick was heard to mutter something 
about sudden death from fright at sight of his bold 
attitude and the hot-water gun. 

‘‘See here, boys,” said N'^d. 

They bent over the bear. A close examination 
showed a sticky substance upon his nose and paws. 

“What’s that?” asked Archie. 

“Honey!” came the triumphant response. 


212 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 


CHAPTER XVII. 

GIANT FIREFLIES IN THE PINE WOODS. 

Archie felt his mouth water, for, if there was one 
thing he was fond of above another, that was honey. 

“Don’t I wish we knew where he got it !” 

“I mean to find out,” said Ned, quietly. 

“You do?” 

“Yes. If not that particular honey tree, one that 
will answer just as well.” 

“Count me in.” 

“Good. Get your high boots on. We may have 
to do some wading.” 

Archie and Ned soon set out, the former carrying 
his gun and a pail, the latter an ax. 

Presently Ned stopped to make an observation. 
Then he placed a little dish containing some sugar- 
water on the ground near where a honeybee was 
working in a modest flower that peeped up through 
the leaves. 

The bee was soon at work. When he had loaded 
himself down he suddenly took wings and flew away. 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 


213 


Ned put his hand over his eyes and strained his 
vision to see the little insect as long as was possible. 

Of course it made a “bee-line” for home when 
laden with honey, as is customary. 

“Come along, Archie,” cried the bee hunter with 
alacrity. 

When they had gone about a quarter of a mile in 
the direct line set by the honey-packer, Ned dared 
not trust to his judgment longer. 

Again he sought a working bee, and placed the 
honey dish temptingly near. This time the insect 
led them slightly to the left of what they had thought 
to be a straight line. 

Ned did not go much beyond the point where he 
lost sight of the bee. He was just about to set the 
honey dish down again, when suddenly he raised his 
head eagerly. 

“What is it, Ned?” 

“Listen !” 

Archie did so. 

“What do you hear?” asked Ned. 

“Only the humming of insects.” 

“You mean the buzzing of bees.” 

“What!” 


214 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

‘‘We are near the hive. It will be found in some 
great hollow tree. The opening being small and 
the swarm large, there is always trouble in their 
passing in and out. Consequently, thousands fly- 
ing about in a swarm make that noise.” 

“Yes, I have heard the hum when our Italian bees 
were swarming at home.” 

“It is something like that. Come, let’s look upon 
our good fortune.” 

They advanced, and presently Archie clutched- his 
companion by the arm. 

“What’s that yonder — that gray thing skulking 
off among the trees?” 

Ned uttered an exclamation and clutched his ax 
nervously. 

“By Jove! a panther!” 

“Ah! the fellow we heard giving tongue in the 
swamp last night.” 

“Very probably.” 

“Shall I shoot?” said Archie, with a distinct recol- 
lection of the success attending his shot<at the bear 
only an hour before. 

“No, no. He’s too far away to make sure work. 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 215 

and deliver me from a hand-to-hand encounter with 
a wounded panther. Let him off this time, Archie.’' 

They laughed together over the anxious manner 
in which this last was put. 

“Panther, depart in peace!” said Archie, with a 
mock-tragic gesture. 

They soon sighted the bee tree, which gave pros- 
pects of a big yield. 

Ned took his ax and began vigorous operations. 
The onslaught made no commotion above, for, even 
if the bees had been alarmed, they could not have 
made away with the honey, as often occurs in a small 
hive. 

“Will you cut it all down?” 

“Yes; you can go back to camp and get the other 
axes with all the tin pails. We’ll pick out the best of 
the honey and leave the balance for the bears, since 
one of ’em gave us the hint.” 

“Where is the camp?” 

“Take your compass. North lies yonder, you see. 
The camp is southeast, or a little sou’ southeast, to 
be particular. When you get beyond that line of 
trees you can see the black smoke from the pine 
fire.” 


2i6 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 


‘"All right. Look for us soon.’^ 

Archie kept his eyes open for the panther as he 
made his way back to camp, but the sleek, gray form 
was not to be seen. 

The captain had come in with a small deer, which 
he had shot a mile to the south of the camp and 
packed there on his shoulders. Tired as he was, 
when he heard that Ned had been left chopping 
down a honey tree he was ready for the fun. 

They put on gloves and arranged a piece of mos- 
quito netting around the hat in such a manner that 
by tucking it into the coat it made a veil, prevent- 
ing undue familiarity on the part of any indignant 
bees. 

All was now ready. 

Taking what pans they could spare they set off 
through the woods. Archie clung to his gun, and 
Dick carried the Winchester, secretly hoping to get 
a glimpse of the panther, but in this both were dis- 
appointed. 

As they neared the spot the blows of Ned’s ax 
were heard, and then came a crackling sound, fol- 
lowed by a crash. 

"‘Hurrah ! the bee tree is down !” cried Archie. 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 217 

They hurried forward. Ned had retreated and 
was busily engaged in fastening on his mosquito-bar 
helmet. 

The air was alive with honeybees. They seemed 
stunned at the misfortune that had overtaken their 
home, but had already commenced to remove the 
honey. 

In its fall the tree had split open, revealing untold 
treasures within. While the bees worked at one 
end, loading themselves up with the sweets, our 
friends tackled another part, where the honey was 
clearest and best. 

Soon their pails were filled. They had no means 
of carrying more, and could not have used it even 
had they taken it. Still, there was ten times the 
quantity left behind. 

“This will draw the bears to-night. They can 
smell it for miles, I believe,” said the captain. 

“Yes, if it was full moon I’ve no doubt you could 
sit in yonder tree with your rifle and kill from three 
to six before dawn.” 

“I won’t bother with them. We’ve got plenty of 
bear meat in camp, and I never go in for the butcher 
act.” 


2 i 8 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

“Good for you, captain,’’ said Archie. 

There are many men who sail under the name of 
sportsmen who are little better than hogs. They 
kill ten times as much as they can use, and never 
put a fish back in the water when he has afforded 
them fine sport. 

Such men deplete the forests and streams of the 
whole country. They are butchers. Our friends 
did not belong to this class. They experienced all 
the love of nature that is a part of a true sports- 
man’s being, and never slaughtered for the sake of 
killing. 

When they returned to camp they were pleased to 
find it had not been disturbed during their absence. 

The honey was packed away in odd jars and screw- 
topped cans, emptied for this purpose. It lasted 
them almost through the entire cruise, and they had 
reason on many an occasion to feel grateful to Ned 
for his work in discovering the bee tree. 

However, if Archie had not shot the bear the 
subject of honey would perhaps never have come up. 

The others helped Archie skin his prize, for the 
animal was sleek and black, unlike many of his kind 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 219 

at this time of the year, and Archie was determined 
to have his hide for a memento of that exciting day. 

They fared well now. 

What with fresh venison and bear meat, together 
with black bass — which, when skinned, they found 
very good — ^their tables were fully supplied with the 
best the market afforded. 

Paddling down the river in the afternoon, Archie 
managed to gather in a few shore birds, two of which 
were yellow legs, another a krieker, the fourth a 
robin snipe. 

They proved nice picking, but only a taste for a 
quartette of hungry cruisers. 

Another night was passed in their camp. 

The sounds of the swamp away off to leeward and 
of the nearer pine woods kept Archie awake for a 
time. Finally he fell off into a sleep. 

It must have been about midnight when the camp 
was aroused by a shrill yell, and every soul sprang 
to his feet. 

‘What is it?’^ 

“The panther has been here at our venison. I 


220 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

saw him as I awoke and gave a yell on the moment,” 
said Ned. 

‘‘And he?^’ 

“Sprang into the bush like a flash. If I thought 
twice Fd have put out my hand and got the Win- 
chester here, but you know very often a fellow acts 
from impulse.” 

“Exactly,” returned the captain. 

An examination proved that Ned had not been 
dreaming. 

There were marks to prove that the panther, or 
some animal, at least, had gotten away with part of 
their venison. 

Through the remainder of the night they heard 
his shrieks in the woods. The meat was now hung 
from the limb of a tree, and they took turns in 
watching, but there was no further alarm. 

Once or twice the panther seemed to come near, 
but the fire, now blazing well, kept him at bay — a 
fact Archie had cause to remember in the future. 

With the coming of dawn they arose, and break- 
fast was soon but a memory, many hands and will- 
ing hearts making light work. 

Then they prepared to start. 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 221 

Their intended journey took them down toward 
the inlet, and they were thus enabled to get an ob- 
servation. 

The sea still ran too high for the launching of the 
canoes, though could they have passed through the 
surf it would have been easy enough outside. 

All of them concluded that they had better stick 
to their plan. Perhaps ten miles could be made in 
that way, and this was a good point. So they pad- 
died along. 

Ned had the map given him by a friend, and he 
acted as courier in the advance. 

Their progress was so slow that it was noon ere 
they reached the point where the stream came near- 
est the ocean. 

Archie made a discovery that was apt to prove of 
value. At one place there was just about ten or 
fifteen yards between the water and an inlet of the 
ocean, filled at high tide. 

This was their opportunity. 

They began to pack their dunnage and oats over, 
and this task, done without any hurry, used up the 
balance of the afternoon. 

All were glad they had stuck to this plan. 


222 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

They could not have left the inlet until three in 
the afternoon, and, to tell the truth, would not have 
dared do so at that hour. 

Now, should the morning prove favorable, they 
would already be some ten miles more or less upon 
their journey. They set about making a camp. By 
this time they had grown so accustomed to such a 
duty that it was soon accomplished. 

Archie took the rifle, crossed the little stream, 
and started out for a hunt, though he did not intend 
going far. As is often the case, however, he saw 
signs of deer and began to get excited. 

In the end he had gone some miles from camp, 
when he finally sighted a small deer and got a shot 
at it. 

He was a fair marksman. 

The deer dropped and Archie bled it. Then he 
proceeded to pack it in the lightest possible manner 
for carrying, as he meant to lug it into camp at all 
hazards. 

Just as he finished this he was amazed to find the 
pine forests growing dusky. 

Night was coming on. 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 22} 

The camp he knew to be several miles away, and 
even its direction was vague enough to him. 

As the proper wrinkle he took out his compass. 
Thus he quickly got his bearings, and discovered the 
direction in which the camp must lie, after which he 
started. 

There was no time to lose. He must depend 
upon himself entirely, for soon the gray dusk had 
given place to the blackness of night. 

He stumbled on, but it was sore work. Obstacles 
seemed to multiply in his path. At times he fell 
over logs, or ran into patches of ugly Spanish bay- 
onet, which stuck like so many keen-pointed needles. 

Minor troubles, such as mosquitoes, he did not 
mind, now that he had more serious business in 
hand, though at another time they would have given 
him much worry. 

He had made some headway, and thought he must 
be half-way to camp, when he heard the cry of that 
panther again. It came from a point not a hundred 
yards away, and directly in his path. 

Archie stopped short. 

The situation was anything but pleasant. 

What should he do? 


224 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

To go on meant a possible encounter with the 
savage beast. Perhaps the animal was lying in wait 
ahead for him. 

He would not turn back, and to camp here meant 
continued danger. 

Ah ! an idea — he would get a torch. 

The animal had been afraid of fire on the preced- 
ing night, and would no doubt feel timid in the pres- 
ence of a torch now. 

The idea was a good one; why not try it? 

It was easy to find some inflammable stuff, as the 
leaves of the palmetto when dry burn like tinder. 
When he had made a little fire out of several leaves, 
he found some pieces of pine that would serve him 
in lieu of better torches. 

These he made a bundle of and thrust into the 
flames. 

In a few minutes they were burning at a lively 
rate. 

Then Archie proceeded on his journey. 

In one hand he held the rifle ready for instant use ; 
the other grasped the torch and raised it above his 
head. 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 225 

His progress was faster now, for he could see 
where to go and clear the obstacles in his path. 

The cry of the panther sounded again, this time on 
his left, and very close. 

It did not require a great amount of imagination 
to believe the animal was following after him. 

Archie cast many an anxious glance around. 
Was he heading aright? 

The thought startled him. 

Was there no way in which he could find out the 
truth? 

He raised his gun and sent three shots into the 
top of the nearest tree. 

Then he listened anxiously. 

To his infinite relief, answering shots came from a 
point apparently no more than half a mile away. 

Under new encouragement he again took up his 
burden and began to stride forward. 

Presently he saw what appeared to be two giant 
fireflies bobbing about in the forest ahead of him. 

It flashed upon him that these were nothing less 
than torches held in the hands of his companions, 
who had come forth, thus equipped, to search for 
him. 


226 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

He shouted; a glad reply came back, and in five 
minutes Dick was at his side. Then Archie felt 
proud of what he had done. 

They soon gained the camp, and the story of his 
adventures was told. 

A portion of the venison was cooked, and Archie 
thought he had never tasted any so sweet. That 
was the result of his labor and peril in packing it 
through the woods. 

He was glad to be able to sleep that night in the 
camp. Archie had been alone in the woods of a 
night before now, but he did not altogether fancy 
the idea of that hungry panther hovering around. 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 


227 


CHAPTER XVIIL 

HOW THE CRUISERS WENT NIGHT-HUNTING. 

Everything was favorable for their outside pas- 
sage in the morning, and they had prepared things 
so that as little time as possible might be lost. 

The fire had been kept up, so that the coffee was 
soon boiling, and a fragrant cup refreshed them. 
Breakfast was over as the sun peeped above the sea, 
now wonderfully quiet. 

They paddled down the little estuary, and 
launched upon the heaving bosom of the great At- 
lantic. It was no trouble to pass through the surf, 
for it amounted to very little. Then each skipper 
sprang into his craft and away they sped. 

All went well; the wind continued fair, and their 
progress, although not rapid, was steady. 

At a quarter to three that afternoon they passed 
into the inlet at the mouth of New River. 

All of them were glad at the success attending 
their journey thus far. 

One more outside voyage would see them to Bis- 


228 


Paddling Under Palmettos, 


cayne Bay, and from that on their journey, though 
just as venturesome, would be inside work. 

New River they found an admirable harbor. It 
was broad at the mouth and afforded a fine refuge 
could vessels cross the inevita^e bar at the inlet. 

At high tide, or when the flood tide was making, 
the waters fairly boiled with the multitude of fish 
that came in from the sea to seek for food. A stout 
hook and line thrown out, even with a giece of white 
or red flannel attached, would be eagerly seized. 

Cavallia were thus taken, and afforded some sport. 
The only disagreeable feature of the fun was the 
great readiness with which sharks snapped off the 
captured fish. Sometimes half of it would be gone 
when drawn in, and then again, fish, hook, and sev- 
eral feet of line vanished together down the maw of 
a monster. 

As evening drew near, the cruisers set to work 
capturing some of these sharks, and soon had three 
separate species hauled out on the beach. 

A tremendous sting ray was also secured, the boys 
being careful to avoid his business end, as it is even 
more dangerous than the kicking quarters of a mule. 

After supper they prowled around with the lighted 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 229 

lantern and fish-spear and in half an hour secured 
as many channel bass, sheepshead, mullet, and pom- 
pano as they could possibly use. 

Ned was especially expert with the spear, and sent 
it home with accuracy almost every time. 

The breeze kept in the west during the night, and 
by morning it had become quite puffy, and when 
Archie awoke at dawn and found that it was still 
from about the same quarter he believed they would 
go on, their main object just now being to reach the 
bay. 

Ned, however, shook his head. 

‘'We’re in for a norther. Ask the captain.” 

The latter corroborated his words, and said it 
would be howling down the coast before an hour had 
passed by. 

As they could not tell what would accompany it, 
they believed it foolhardy to pass out from the in- 
let under such circumstances, and, hence, concluded 
to stay. 

The prophecy was fulfilled, for down came the 
norther, and it proved to be a severe one, although 
not at all cold. 

Outside it looked wild and stormy, but under the 


230 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

trees one felt comfortable enough, for they served 
as a wind-break. 

“What’s that?” asked Dick, as they sat about the 
fire after supper, talking. 

“I’d say it was the bark of a dog, if I didn’t know 
better,” replied Archie. 

“That’s just what it is, though.” 

Listening, they could hear the dogs approaching 
the camp. Presently a man advanced with several 
curs at his heels. He was a gaunt-looking specimen 
of humanity, evidently a “Cracker.” 

Upon greeting him cordially they learned that 
he was a resident, having a palmetto shanty but 
half a mile away. 

“I seen you’uns come into the river, an’ thort as 
how I’d run over an’ see if ye wouldn’t like to take 
a run with me to-night.” 

“What’re.you hunting, Tom?” asked Ned, who 
had heard of the man above. 

“I’m out after ’coons and ’possums, though we 
might run ag’in’ higher game.” 

Archie forgot his fatigue. Even his thrilling ex- 
perience of the preceding night passed out of his 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 231 

mind. He looked at Dick. Would you care to go, 
Archie?’’ 

‘‘Yes, if you went along.” 

“All right, unless Ned here will go. I don’t care 
to leave the captain alone.” 

Ned, however, declared his intention to hug the 
camp-fire, and nurse a sore knee. So Archie and 
Dick donned their “waders,” as they termed their 
long boots, took a few things along, and then an- 
nounced themselves ready to accompany Tom. 

Dick shouldered the faithful Winchester now, 
while Archie had his little double-barrel, as they 
struck off into the woods. At first it was difficult to 
make progress, for the woods were close, and, but 
for Tom’s knowledge of the neighborhood, the 
others could have done nothing. Soon, however, 
the country became more open. 

“Now for fun,” said the “Cracker.” 

He spoke to his dogs. 

They seemed to know just what was wanted, and 
began the hunt with animation, so that before long 
their barks announced that some animal had been 
treed. 

Upon hastening to the spot they found that it was 


2}2 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

a ’coon. The animal sat upon a limb looking down 
with complacency at his foes upon the ground. 

Now Tom’s ax came into play, and the tree, be- 
ing a small one, soon came crashing to the ground. 

Then the dogs sprang in among the branches; 
there was a short but fierce struggle, and poor 
“ ’coony” was tossed to the feet of the dogs’ master, 
void of life, while the intelligent animals looked up 
at him expectantly, as though waiting for further 
orders. 

The hunt was resumed. 

Before long there came once more the signal 
barks from the dogs. A little light upon the sub- 
ject showed that a queer combination existed. The 
dogs had scared a ’coon up one tree, while an op- 
possum occupied another. 

Here was fun. 

‘'Keep your eyes on Mr. ’Coon, Archie,” cried 
Dick, as he seized the ax. 

“What are you going to do?” 

“Cut down the ’possum first.” 

The sturdy blows of the ax resounded through 
the dark forest. Soon the tree upon which the 
opossum had taken refuge came crashing down. 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 233 

Again the dogs pounced into the branches, when 
an unexpected event occurred. 

Out came an animal which Archie recognized as 
an opossum, though the dogs seemed to be fully en- 
gaged in the tree-top. 

He took in the situation in a flash, and, throwing 
up his Parker, tumbled the escaping animal over in a 
trice. When the melee was over and the spoils col- 
lected, it was found that they had three ’possums. 
The tree had been a regular nest. 

Where was Mr. ’Coon all this while? 

He had vanished, but was soon discovered up in 
another tree. 

As chopping had become a trifle monotonous by 
this time, Dick proposed bringing him down by the 
aid of a little lead, and his first shot did the business. 

The ’coon fell with a thump, and, though the dogs 
leaped upon him, there was no life left to be shaken 
out. 

‘‘Hurrah!” cried Archie. 

They had now experienced all the fun they 
yearned for on this night, and, with their load of 
’possums and ’coons, took up the road to the camp. 

It was reached in due time without any mishap. 


234 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

and those who had remained behind had to hear the 
story of the hunt. 

Tom consented to lay down with them before the 
fire and spend the night. 

In the morning two of them went in their canoes 
— Tom paddling the dinghy, with his dogs squatted 
around him — over to his cabin, where he had a very 
good well, at which they filled their water cans. 

Some time was spent on New River in fishing and 
hunting, while waiting for a favorable spell of 
weather in which to continue their outside journey. 

At length the long-looked-for opportunity came, 
and they said good-by to New River. 

Their good fortune on the last trip gave them 
hope for this one, but is was doomed to disappoint- 
ment, for they had made but half the distance when 
the breeze whipped around in a most unprecedented 
fashion, and came out of the southeast. 

Nothing could have been worse. 

Although sailing close-hauled and still making fair 
progress, in a short time they were battling against 
a heavy sea. 

Archie feared trouble was about to come, and that 
they would have to beach their little craft again, for 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 235 

it was worse than before — the billows were heavier, 
and they arose and fell upon mountains or in valleys. 

Still, the wind being strong, they managed to keep 
well together, which, under the circumstances, was 
fortunate, for they had different tactics to pursue 
now than on the former occasion. 

Archie realized this in the persistent manner in 
which they pushed on, instead of trying to beach 
the boats. 

He was thrilled with the excitement, and every 
nerve seemed on the qui vive as he clung to the 
windward gunwale of the Sea Waif and kept his eyes 
on the alert. 

They could see the shore when out of the trough 
of the sea. Ned was watching it carefully and look- 
ing for the opening marked upon his chart, and 
which must be near at hand. 

Biscayne Bay is really inclosed on the east by a line 
of islands or exposed bars, beginning at a point near 
its northern end. Here it is the Florida Keys really 
begin. 

It was through the passage between the first key 
and the mainland that the cruisers hoped to escape 
from the increasing fury of the Atlantic. 


2)6 Paddling Under Palmettos. 


They could not stand it much farther, as both 
wind and sea were becoming so extremely violent 
that the mosquito fleet threatened to succumb. 

Archie was clinging to his boat literally with tooth 
and nail. Every moment he had new difficulties to 
meet and overcome. 

He believed that as long as the others held out he 
would be able to do so, but, deep down in his soul, 
he was really disturbed by the violent aspect of their 
surroundings. 

Were they doomed to go under? 

He shut his teeth hard and kept his eyes upon his 
companions as well as the flying scud would allow. 
They pitched and tossed at times as though com- 
pletely at the mercy of the wind and wave. 

Archie had only his mainsail up, and with a double 
reef in that; and yet even then there were times 
when he thought it would be his destruction. 

So they plowed along, making headway, and yet 
in momentary danger of capsizing. 

Such a thing, under the existing circumstances, 
would not have been a frolic — the chances were in 
favor of its meaning something more serious — even 
death. 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 237 

Archie's ears were suddenly saluted with the glad 
sound of a blast from Ned's horn. 

This was a signal for which they had long been 
waiting. 

It signified that the passage through which Ned 
meant to lead them was in sight. 

A little more of wild tossing upon that heaving 
sea, during which all of them took observations as 
far as lay in their power to do so. Then came two 
sharp -blasts, which signified that it was time to 
change their course, and, taking the breeze fairly 
over their port quarter, make the run in. 

Away they went. 

Oh! but it was a wild chase upon the great bil- 
lows, and one that made Archie hold his very breath 
with suspense. 


238 Paddling Under Palmettos. 


CHAPTER XIX. 

ALLIGATOR CAMP. 

They passed the jaws of land, seen dimly through 
the blinding spray. 

Should the boats head upon any rock or sand spit 
now, they were lost. 

No wonder the cruisers were wrapped in suspense 
during that speedy passage. 

They rushed past the tongue of land and no mis- 
hap followed. 

^‘Hurrah r 

Every one of them joined in the glad shout as they 
found themselves upon the broad surface of the bay, 
for their escape from all mishaps had been little 
short of a miracle. 

The bay was smooth when compared with the tu- 
multuous heavings of the ocean without. 

Even the little dinghy of the captain had weath- 
ered the trial, hardly shipping a pint of sea water. 

When they had in a measure recovered from the 
effect of their unpleasant experience they picked out 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 239 

their course and were soon bowling along merrily 
toward the point where it was decided to camp. 

From this place they hoped to reach the Ever- 
glades, and, as this water-covered section of the 
country was unusually high for this season of the 
year. Lake Okeechobee might be finally sighted. 
Sailing across this dreary stretch of solitary water, 
they hoped to strike the western shore about the vi- 
cinity of the place where the great Disston Canal 
begins. 

This would in turn take them through Lake Flirt 
and another lake, eventually bringing them to the 
Caloosahatchee River, down which they could pad- 
dle, or sail, past Fort Meyers, to where it joins the 
gulf at a point called Punta Rassa. 

The wind became fresher as the bay opened be- 
fore them, and at length the little fleet came-to near 
the shore. 

Sails were stowed and spruce blades brought into 
requisition as they made their way slowly along, 
looking for a good camping spot. 

Archie led, and sighted a small stream that led 
into the bay at this point. They ran up this, finding 


240 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 


a nice dry spot under some palmetto trees, and here, 
then, the camp was pitched. 

Never did cruisers enjoy rest more than the four 
who gathered around the fire on that evening. 

They had no ambition to do anything but lie 
around after supper was over and smoke as they 
compared experiences. 

During the evening they were visited by a couple 
of settlers who had seen the fleet, and knew where 
their camp was pitched. These gentlemen kindly 
brought some yams, cocoanuts, and fruit. 

Ned showed Archie how to cook a green cocoa- 
nut so that when sweetened in its shell it was a de- 
licious blanc mange. 

That night all slept so soundly that they knew not 
of the presence of an unwelcome visitor until morn- 
ing, when a haunch of venison was found missing, 
and they discovered the tracks of a wildcat. 

Oysters were struck nearby — great fellows in 
shells five inches and more in length, and clinging to 
bushes at low tide. 

Upon these they feasted. 

Crabs were plenty, and in half an hour, with a 
landing-net and a piece of meat tied to the end of 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 241 

a string, Archie landed a couple of dozen large fel- 
lows. 

Upon the shores tens of thousands of little fiddler 
crabs could be seen. They retreated to their holes 
with surprising celerity upon being approached, and 
could only be captured by cunning, or else vigorous 
(digging. 

With these as bait, sheepshead could always be 
secured in certain places, readily found by any one 
at all versed in the ways of this fish that feeds almost 
entirely upon mollusks, which fact is what gives the 
flesh of the sheepshead and pompano such sweetness 
and delicacy. 

During the day succeeding their arrival at the bay 
they were visited by a well-known canoeist who was 
spending the winter in that section. From this gen- 
tleman they obtained much valuable information. 

He did not fancy the trip they had before them, 
and possibly had our friends seen as much expe- 
rience in the swamps of the Pelican State as he, they 
might have ended their cruise by a passage behind 
the Keys to Key West instead; but their course was 
set, and no amount of friendly advice could turn 
them from it. 


242 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

The second day came. 

It saw them on their way to the mouth of the 
Miami. Here they took advantage of an opportu- 
nity that might not occur again for a long time — to 
lay in full stocks of water and provisions. 

Sunday was spent in the society of these kind 
friends who had come to wish them Godspeed upon 
their journey. 

The air was beautiful. Down here they need fear 
the cold breath of the norther no longer. 

They no longer wore a coat over their red flannel 
shirts except at night, when the air became cool, and 
extra covering comfortable. 

On Monday they took a last fond look out upon 
the bay and the ocean beyond, as seen through 
Bear's Cut, and then, with the light wind favoring 
them from the east, set sail. 

They were not enabled to make use of their sails 
for any great length of time, for the circumstances 
did not remain favorable. 

Double blades then came into play, and lunch was 
eaten while resting under some shady live-oak trees 
that overhung the water. 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 243 

How beautiful and bright everything seemed 
around them. 

Their spirits were high, and Ned sang his favorite 
songs from time to time. As he paddled along 
some distance in the advance, he being the pilot and 
navigator of the expedition, they could hear his clear 
voice chanting: 

“But the ship will tack, and the tar come back 
To the first love of his heart.” 

At four o’clock they discovered a fine spot for a 
camp. Here was an invitation impossible to resist. 

Canoes were drawn up on the shore, or secured 
in other ways, and then the usual preparations went 
on. 

They had eaten supper and were lying about the 
roaring fire taking their ease as well as the myriads 
of mosquitoes would allow, when a tremulous sound 
arose on the air, gradually deepening into a bellow, 
at which Dick gave a dismal groan. 

“We’re in for a serenade,” he said. 

“A bull!” cried Archie, looking up. 

“Exactly,” said Dick, dryly. 

‘Where do you suppose he is?” 


244 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

“Out there in the water — ^perhaps astride of an 
old log.’’ 

“What!” 

“An alligator bull, Archie.” 

“Oh!” 

Archie, you see, had had little experience among 
the alligators. 

With the coming of dawn they had finished their 
breakfast and were on the way. 

Archie’s experience had been considerably aug- 
mented during the night. He was very apt to know 
the plaintive whine or bull bellow of an alligator 
after this. 

Their progress was satisfactory during the morn- 
ing, and they found it better to move thus while the 
day was cool and rest at noon. 

“What in the world is that?” asked Archie, point- 
ing toward the shore. 

“Hallo ! an alligator trap, as I live,” replied Dick. 

“An alligator trap?” 

“Yes. That object hoisted in the air as you see 
is an alligator. What raises his head and the fore 
part of his body from the ground? Paddle over 
with me and see.” 



“ Archie found that the allij 
legs by a loop of rope, the en( 
See page 245. 


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Paddling Under Palmettos. 245 

Archie found that the alligator was inclosed just 
back of the forelegs by a loop of rope, the end of 
which was fastened to a stout sapling. 

It was a snare such as rabbits are caught in. 
Archie had known of wolves being trapped in the 
same way, and here he found it made use of by some 
ingenious alligator-skin hunter. 

The reptile was alive, but helpless, and awaited 
the coming of the hunter, who might set the snare 
afresh by bending the straight sapling again. 

They were now making their way along what ap- 
peared to be a creek, the water of which was no lon- 
ger salty; but they only used it for boiling potatoes 
or washing up tin platters and kettles. 


246 Paddling Under Palmettos. 


CHAPTER XX. 

THE RED JACKETS IN THE EVERGLADES. 

Ned pointed out a number of trees with names 
that were new to his companions. 

Generally speaking, their course lay through 
swampy lands. Here the funeral moss hung from 
the limbs of the trees, giving a weird look to the 
whole scene. 

Ned made sure work of it, and was on his guard 
continually, for he had found certain little errors in 
his map, though on the whole it was correct. 

That night they had to camp in their boats, but 
this was nothing out of the way. The canoes were 
drawn close together, and they talked together after 
supper while enjoying the usual solace, a pipe. 

Somehow the conversation came around to 
a point where wild hogs were mentioned. 

This caused a laugh. 

The joke was on Archie, for while in camp up on 
the Halifax they had been troubled by the depreda- 
tions of an old sow, followed by a half-grown colony 
of young swine. 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 247 

These rascals had been very daring, and rooted 
around the camp at all hours of the night. Their 
depredations had especially annoyed Archie, and 
during the early part of the evening he had waged 
warfare on them. 

In the middle of the night the camp had been 
aroused by a tremendous clatter of pans. 

^‘The Greek! the Greek!” yelled Dick. 

Archie took in the situation at a glance as he 
bounded from the tent lightly clad. The old sow 
with the numerous progeny had started in to get a 
pot of hominy left over from the previous supper, 
and to reach it she had to tumble among the assem- 
bled platters and kettles. 

When Archie appeared upon the scene the whole 
troop was rattling the tins about in the greatest dis- 
order, until it really sounded as might the alarm on 
that night long ago when the Turk awoke to find 
noble Bozzaris and his band of Greek heroes in the 
camp. 

Archie was a man for an emergency. He 
snatched up the first thing that came to hand, which 
happened to be a great pine knot, and made a dash 
upon the enemy. 


248 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

They wisely retreated, deeming discretion the bet- 
ter part of valor, when the enemy made such an ad- 
vance upon them. 

Then began a wild chase. 

Archie was fully aroused, and he followed the 
troop hither and thither, dealing them blows that 
sounded through the grove, and at each resounding 
thwack his companions went into fresh convulsions 
of laughter. 

Finally Archie came in, the perspiration streaming 
from his forehead, but he smiled grimly with the air 
of a conqueror, since he had dispersed the enemy — 
for one hour. 

The hogs run wild in the woods, but all are 
claimed by owners, and it is a dangerous thing to 
kill one at any time. 

This was only one of the humorous memories of 
the long cruise that would haunt them in the years 
to come. 

They were now far away from the coast, and 
really in the heart of Southern Florida. 

Birds of beautiful plumage were seen on every 
hand, for the fiend had, apparently, not yet pene- 
trated this spot. 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 249 

Archie obtained a scarlet ibis, which he meant to 
have stuffed later on. 

“Boys,” said Ned, suddenly, “I see by the map 
that we are within a short distance of a bird’s nest- 
ing place. What say, shall we visit it ?” 

“As for me,” returned Dick, firmly, “I’m comfort- 
able, thank you. Sooner shall this rock fly from its 
base than I” 

“What rock?” 

“Oh, that’s figurative, to carry out the expression 
of Roderic Dhu.” 

“I take it that the sentiment of the crowd, then, is 
averse to my proposition. All in favor of it say 
aye.” 

No one answered. 

Ned laughed. 

“Just as well, boys. We can see all we want of 
the place in the morning.” 

“Yes, our tents are up, and I for one don’t pro- 
pose taking them down until morning. We’re 
sporting for sport, you know.” 

Then there was another laugh. 

While they were launching the canoes at New 
Smyrna, and working like pack horses to get their 


250 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

goods down out of the camp, they had been ob- 
served by a boy who had just come from the North 
to be a resident — a Jimmy Branagan by name. 

He seemed puzzled to understand how any one 
bent on pleasure could work so hard, and at last pro- 
pounded the amazing conundrum : 

“Say, be you fellows a sporting for sport?*’ 

The canoeists looked into each other’s faces, and 
as the ridiculous nature of their labor, under the 
guise of fun, broke upon them they laughed wildly. 

It was a standard joke after that, and when any 
one of them seemed to be enduring more than the 
ordinary share of hard luck he was sure to hear a 
companion cruiser add to his misery by shouting 
out: 

“Say, be you sporting for sport ?” 

The interrogation was sure to bring a smile to the 
face of the weary paddler. 

As the mosquitoes were very troublesome, the 
Ciuisers found good use for their bars, and it was 
sweet to lie there safe from assault while the droning 
song went on outside. 

There was hardly a night but what they were 
lulled to slumber by the chorus of the swamp. Alii- 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 251 

gators, snakes, fresh-water turtles, crawlers of all 
kinds, and birds innumerable — these were their con- 
stant companions. 

They were off soon after sunrise, and Ned led the 
way up a narrow creek to the ‘'egg farm,” as he 
called it. Of course, it was in the swamp. A more 
fearful-looking place Archie never gazed upon. 

Here all manner of plume birds nested, and the 
presence of thousands of eggs brought to the spot 
animals and reptiles that were fond of delicate mor- 
sels. 

Feathers covered the ground, while the odor was 
simply fearful. Snakes gathered by scores, some of 
them hideous monsters. Archie was fearful lest one 
should fall from a tree upon his canoe and chase him 
overboard. 

The noise, too, was awful; the chattering and 
shrieking of birds, old and young, making the welkin 
ring, so that a few minutes gave the canoeists quite 
enough. 

“Whew ! Let^s get out of this,” said Ned. 

“Ditto!” 

“Isn’t it awful?” from Archie. 


252 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

They turned and fled from the spot, their curiosity 
fully satisfied — no more “egg farm” for them. 

“To-day we ought to strike the Everglades,” Ned 
announced. 

At three o’clock they rounded a bend and came 
to a halt. 

Before them they saw the historic region of 
Southern Florida — the Everglades. 

A popular impression of this region seems to be 
that of a swamp, but this is entirely erroneous. It is 
reached through swamps, but the Everglades them- 
selves consist of vast tracts of water from one to ten 
feet in depth, and dotted thickly with islands. 

It is a beautiful sight in February, when myriads 
of flowers dot the grasses growing upon the shores. 

A gentle easterly breeze dimpled the surface of 
the water. This stirred the hearts of our friends as 
even the beauty of the scene failed to do. They 
gave a shout as they tackled the long-disused sails 
and prepared to throw them to the breeze. 

In five minutes the canoes were in line, moving 
along like snowy birds. 

“This is living,” grunted Ned, stretching himself 
out on deck, and looking contented. 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 25'? 

All were agreed to that. 

It had been quite a time since they had made 
progress unaided by muscular effort, and a sense of 
quiet content pervaded them as they lay back and 
watched the ripples break away from the sharp bows 
of their craft. 

At about four o’clock they reached their intended 
destination, having had a delightful sail of several 
miles. 

“Hurrah for a bully camp !” said Ned. 

• There was every indication of it. 

Soon the tent was up and supper preparing. The 
atmosphere was redolent with the odors of a 
million flowers. They were not troubled by the alli- 
gators now, for the saurians seemed to stick to the 
swamps, generally. 

One pest alone remained — the mosquitoes. They 
descended upon the camp in countless myriads, 
doubtless attracted by the fire, and made life a bur- 
den until the cruisers, owning themselves defeated, 
wisely withdrew within the shelter of the tent. 

Dick wickedly suggested that Archie rout them 
with a pine knot, as he had the wild hogs up at New 
Smyrna. 


254 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 


“I’d probably afford a vast amount of sport to you 
fellows, prancing around here chasing a villainous 
mosquito with a pine knot as big as a house, and 
achieve glory, too, but I’m inclined to be humble, so 
I respectfully beg to be excused,” replied Archie, 
tersely. 

“Come Dick, give us that old shanty of yours,” 
said the captain. 

“Which?” evasively. 

“You call it ‘Roll a Man Down.’ ” 

“It can’t be sung alone. Every second line is a 
chorus.” 

“All right. We’ll join in.” 

“You won’t like it.” 

“Humbug! I heard it before you were born, I 
reckon. Avast heaving. Tune up.” 

“Well, if you must, you must. Here goes.” 

There is little in the words, but a great deal in the 
singing. Dick drawled it out in a way highly enter- 
taining, and the others boomed the second and last 
lines as a chorus with great effect. For the benefit 
of those who may have heard Dr. Neide sing it 
around the camp-fire at some old-time canoe meet 


Paddling Under Palmettos, 255 

at Grindstone Island or Lake George, and who may 
wish to have the words, we give them room : 

ROLL A MAN DOWN. 

As I was going down Tennyson Street, 

Now, away, oh ! roll a man down ! 

As I was going down Tennyson Street, 

Oh ! give us some time to roll a man down, 

A pretty young girl I chanced to meet. 

Now, away, oh! roll a man down! 

A pretty young girl I chanced to meet. 

Now, give us some time to roll a man down. 

Said she to me, “Oh, where d’ye come from?” 

Now, away, oh ! roll a man down ! 

Said she to me, “Oh, where d’ye come from ?” 

Now, give us some time to roll a man down. 

A flying fish-catcher from old Hong Kong, 

Now, away, oh! roll a man down! 

A flying fish-catcher from old Hong Kong, ' 

Now, give us some time to roll a man down. 

Said she to me, “Oh, won’t you stand treat?” 

Now, away, oh ! roll a man down ! 

Said she to me, “Oh, won’t you stand treat?” 

Now, give us some time to roll a man down. 

Said I, “Old girl, you’re on the dead-beat,” 

Now, away, oh ! roll a man down ! 

Said I, “Old girl, you’re on the dead-beat,” 

Now, give us some time to roll a man down. 

From larboard to starboard away we go, 

Now, away, oh ! roll a man down ! 

From larboard to starboard away we go, 

Now, give us some time to roll a man down. 

Belay! 

Ned followed with a favorite of all, a song as old 


256 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

as the hills, and yet ever fresh — ‘‘The Arrow and the 
Song/’ 

Thus they passed their first evening in the famous, 
mysterious Everglades, which years before had rung 
with the war cries of the fierce Seminoles, but per- 
haps never before echoed with the spirit of senti- 
mental song. 

Just after they left the island and started upon 
their way, Dick drew their attention to an object 
that had rounded the end of the land, and was fol- 
lowing them. 

“An Indian!” 

Sure enough, it was a Seminole in his dugout 
canoe. His sail was large and square. He seemed 
to use it entirely to manipulate the boat instead of 
having a rudder. 

As the wind came from the south, and over the 
port quarter, they could see him hanging out to 
windward, so they allowed him to come up. 

He was a stoical fellow, wearing the usual turban 
headdress of his tribe, a colored handkerchief wrap- 
ped round and round the head as a protection 
against the sun. Besides, it has become the em- 
blem of their race, just as a Chinaman’s queue is. 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 257 

He could speak but little English, though he 
seemed to understand all they said, and manifested 
intense interest in their boats. Archie hoisted all 
his sail to show him how easily the Sea Waif could 
leave him in the lurch, and the fellow actually 
laughed. 

He invited them to visit the camp. Ned engaged 
him in conversation, as he knew a few words of the 
Seminole tongue. 

“What say, fellows, shall we go?” 

“How far is it?” 

“Two hours’ journey beyond that island yonder.” 

“I say so,” declared Dick. 

“We will never have another chance, boys.” 

“Count me in. We can afford to give a day to 
seeing these strange people in their homes,” put in 
Archie. 

That settled it. 

The Seminole seemed pleased to know that they 
had decided to go with him, for he was evidently 
anxious to show his people the beautiful little 
canoes. 

They saw nothing warlike about him. 


258 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

True, he had a gun in his boat, and some game, 
but his looks were docile enough. 

They remembered what th*' ‘'pineapple man of 
Eden’’ had said about them, and could believe he 
knew whereof he spoke. 

So the voyage was continued, and having rounded 
the island, beating up into the wind for a time, they 
drew near the home of the Seminoles. 

Here they were greeted by the rest of the camp. 

Half a dozen men, twice as many squaws, and a 
host of papooses constituted the whole settlement. 

They were a harmless lot, subsisting by hunting 
and fishing. Back on the island they had quite a 
garden, and the boys soon found that, as of yore, 
among the noble North American Indians, the 
lordly warriors made the squaws do all the manual 
labor therein. 

They spent this night at the camp, but slept each 
in his boat, not that they feared thievery, but be- 
cause it promised a more comfortable bed than the 
shore, and they smiled when they saw that the In- 
dians used mosquito nets. 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 


259 


CHAPTER XXL 

A LOST CANOE CLUB. 

During'the evening some flights of oratory were 
indulged in. Ned covered himself with glory, and 
even the famous old Indian orator of the Six 
Nations, Red Jacket, after whom they had named 
their canoe club, might have been envious had he 
listened. 

They slept well. 

In the morning they parted from their friends, the 
Seminoles, taking souvenirs with them and leaving 
others behind. Ned had spent nearly an hour in 
trying to get some information out of the head man 
of the tribe, and did not believe he had succeeded, 
because it failed to agree with his map. 

The Indians had lived in the Everglades all their 
lives, and undoubtedly knew about the intricate pas- 
sages, but they possibly lacked the power of giving 
this information to others, so Ned thought. 

A fair breeze was given them from the start, but 
it died out after a while, to come up, just as they 


26 o Paddling Under Palmettos. 

expected, a stiff head wind. Against this they 
bucked for five mortal hours, making wet progress. 
It was hard work, but anything was better than 
paddling, so they kept it up until three in the after- 
noon. 

As the wind was still rising and clouds gathering 
beyond threatened a wild night, they looked around 
for some place of shelter. 

For once it was lacking. Night was coming on, 
a night that threatened storm, and the only islands 
within the range of their vision were small patches 
covered with bushes. 

“We’re in for it,” said Ned, grimly. 

It seemed so, and again did they realize a truth 
they had learned upon the Indian River — that in the 
end it does not pay to beat against a head wind. 

They were not to be daunted by trifles, however, 
and made the most of a bad bargain. Since they 
could not have what they wanted, they took what 
they could get, and did the best with it. 

Working to the lee side of the largest island, they 
tied up to the stoutest bushes with cables, and then 
threw out a stern anchor — the same tactics so often 
carried out on the Halifax and Indian Rivers, only 


Paddling Under Palmettos 261 

there was no pier to the windward now to break the 
force of the gale. 

Tents were put up. 

Extra care was taken with each fastening, for the 
coming storm looked ugly. 

When everything had been carefully examined a 
second time and pronounced perfect, they set about 
making themselves as comfortable as possible inside. 

Jocular remarks were bandied from one to an- 
other as they prepared supper. 

Hardly had this duty been completed when a dull 
roaring was heard. It sounded like a railroad train 
a mile away. 

‘‘Here she comes, boys !” cried the captain. 

Nearer and nearer it sounded. Each one awaited 
the first strain, knowing that in all probability it 
would be the most savage of all. 

Archie looked out. 

Beyond the low island, half a mile away, was the 
storm, sweeping down on them with great rapidity. 

There was a deafening roar, and then the gale 
struck the canoes. Partly shielded by the low 
island, they only tugged and strained at their 
anchorage, bobbing up and down like corks. 


262 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

For hours the wind shrieked about their ears, 
actually lifting up the spray at the weather side of 
the island and dashing it up against the tents like 
rain. 

The lightning and thunder had made lively work 
in the beginning of the night, but, believing they 
had seen the worst of it, the cruisers lay down to 
sleep. 

In the morning the storm had disappeared, and 
they had a fair breeze to push on. Sail was at once 
made, and the scene of their dismal night’s anchor- 
age left behind. 

Soon they were traversing the passages in be- 
tween the numerous islands, and here Ned could be 
observed studying his map closely, for he knew what 
tremendous trouble a blunder would make. 

It was monotonous work. 

They had reason to believe that it would end in 
their taking to a creek again, where the paddle 
would be their only propelling power. 

Indeed, more than once already they had to get 
out their blades and dip them deeply, for the breeze 
was very light and captious, at times favorable, and 
then again contrary. 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 263 

Their progress was slow, but toward evening it 
came out strong, and they sprang up from their 
indolent attitude to take advantage of it. 

For a time they bowled away merrily, and all 
seemed well, but Archie was watching Ned, and he 
thought the latter looked troubled. 

“What’s the matter, Ned?” 

“The map’s kind of mixed here.” 

Archie laughed, remembering how the poor 
Indian who was found almost starved indignantly 
denied being lost, and striking himself on the chest 
cried magnificently: 

“Indian no lost — wigwam lost; Indian here.” 

Somehow none of them slept very well that night. 
A feeling as of some impending evil was hanging 
over them. 

In the morning, however, they were bright and 
full of spirits, for with the rising of the sun their 
doubts and fears took wings and flew away. 

They began to move on. 

When certain bends were made Ned marked them 
upon his map, and they endeavored to fix them on 
their minds, so that they might recognize them 
again. 


264 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

By noon so many twists and turns had been made 
that this endeavor was utterly out of the question. 

Then Ned’s words came up, and they realized that 
it would be just as hard to retreat as to go forward. 
In a word, they were already lost. 

One satisfaction lay in the fact that they kept 
making progress. 

This lasted until three o’clock, and then came 
their first rebuff, when the estuary they were follow- 
ing up appeared no longer navigable. 

Its width was still the same, but the branches of 
trees came so low that even without their masts 
stepped, it was utterly impossible to make forward 
progress. 

There was nothing to do but to turn back, for the 
map had been proven faulty. 

They held a consultation. 

‘The route the Indians told me must lie far to the 
left. Let us work that way as we grope along. 
Then we will have the satisfaction of knowing that 
we are going farther away all the while, but drawing 
gradually nearer.’^ 

Ned’s words were deemed wise, and their very 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 265 

first move was to work off in a southwestern direc- 
tion. 

The first line of open water running to the left, 
they entered. This soon brought them to another 
ectuary that ran in a general direction the same way 
as that they had been following when they were 
brought to a halt. 

When it came time to camp they had not found 
any impediment here, but their hopes were not al- 
lowed to run away with reason. 

Around the fire they told stories and cracked 
jokes as usual. 

The ground not being suitable for sleeping, they 
determined to spend the night aboard their craft, 
where they could be sure of comfortable beds, at 
least. 

What would the morrow bring forth? This was 
the question each asked himself as he climbed into 
his canoe and settled down under the blankets. 

It was all very well to be cheerful, but they ought 
to look the difficulty squarely in the face. 

To be lost in a labyrinthine Florida swamp was no 
child’s play. One could wander about here in a 


266 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

boat for weeks and find no means of reaching civili- 
zation. 

Breakfast again. 

The canoes were made in readiness for a start, 
and at eight o’clock exactly the paddles again dipped 
in the brown swamp water. At nine the cruisers 
were clustered together looking gloomily at each 
other. Further progress was stopped, for the trees 
again prevented a passage. 

They might have attempted to cut through, but 
Ned pointed to the fact that there seemed to be no 
passage, as he could not detect any current, try as 
^ might. 

All that could be done was to turn back and try 
afresh. They had to return almost to their camp 
before finding a passage to the south. 

After much groping about, with time lost and 
very little progress made, they came to another one 
of the main ‘‘canals,” as they called those running 
northwest. 

It was now three o’clock. 

The oassage was wide, so that they could even 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 267 

Step their masts and sail along it, the breeze being 
favorable. 

Every hour they expected to see the wide passage 
open into the lake, but evening came without such 
a thing occurring, and they had to camp with uncer- 
tainty still ahead. 


268 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 


CHAPTER XXII. 

OKEECHOBEE, THE LONELY LAKE. 

‘‘I have learned that there is positively no current 
to this arm or passage,” said Ned that evening. 

“What does that imply ?” 

“That it is merely a lagoon, and not a passage 
running from the Everglades over to Lake Okee- 
chobee.” 

“How do you know this?” 

“Very easily. I understand that through this ar- 
tery the water is always flowing one way or another. 
If Okeechobee is higher than the Everglades, in the 
dry season it flows into the latter, while during the 
wet months the current is reversed.” 

“I understand. And at no time, then, is this pas- 
sage stationary?” 

“No. I find there is not the slightest current 
here, or if so it is imperceptible.” 

“Then it seems positive that we are on the wrong 
tack. What is the use of going further?” 

“I see none.” 

“We passed an opening a mile back that led 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 269 

south. It might be well for us to go back and take 
it.” 

“I believe so. We will talk it over around the 
camp-fire to-night.” 

“How about the chief of the Seminoles now?” 

“He was right and the map wrong. If we had 
followed his directions, I believe we would ere this 
have been on Okeechobee.” 

Archie said no more. The brightness of the day 
had fled, and their future still seemed like the com- 
ing night. 

He noticed fish gliding about the water-grasses 
as he paddled in the dinghy, and resolved to make 
use of the spear after supper while the others were 
discussing the situation, that is if he could avoid 
being murdered by the mosquitoes. 

The lantern was rigged and the dinghy made use 
of to convey the fish-spearer to his point. At first 
he miscalculated his aim badly, but upon experi- 
menting found out what was wrong. From that 
time on he improved until he was able to send the 
barb with as much skill as any of his more expe- 
rienced companions. 

Of course the variety of fish was nothing as com- 


270 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

pared to the Indian River, Lake Worth, and Bis- 
cayne Bay, where in the salt water a dozen different 
kinds could be secured in an evening, and of the 
most edible species; but they felt fish-hungry, and 
black bass, perch, and fish of that calibre made good 
eating. 

There is certainly no danger of a man starving in 
Florida. Plenty surrounds him, and only needs an 
outstretched hand to seize it. 

The dangers that lurk there are wholly in the line 
of a possible snake bite and disease; the water is 
generally to be avoided, as it will bring on some 
terrible fever quicker than anything else. 

Dick was something of a doctor, and had prepared 
their systems against any inception of malaria, and 
they were also careful about their drinking-water. 

Whenever it was at all possible they had a camp- 
fire, which is a good safeguard against this insidious 
disease. 

Altogether they had no fear. Dick’s trouble had 
probably arisen in part from certain food he had 
eaten, and which had not agreed with him. 

He was in fine health now, and in better spirits 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 271 

than any of the others, seeing only the ridiculous 
side of their trouble. 

All agreed that there was no use in following this 
passage further, but it would be policy to strike at 
once for the next one on the left. 

Then they might take time by the forelock and 
try to discover whether there was any current to the 
next canal before embarking their fortunes on it. 

It was Archie who proposed this, and the others 
fell in with the idea, pronouncing it good. 

So they passed the night, keeping up a roaring 
fire to “warm the whole out-doors,’’ as the captain 
declared. 

The usual chorus was to be heard around them 
during the livelong hours of the night, but by this 
time they had become so accustomed to hearing it 
that they would really have been uneasy had a sol- 
emn silence rested upon the scene, believing that it 
presaged some coming storm. 

A cool breeze was blowing when Archie opened 
his eyes in the morning. Looking out he saw that 
it was broad daylight, and the sun was about rising. 

The scene was charming indeed. Birds caroled 
in the trees, while others hovered over the water. 


272 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

looking for a breakfast. Cranes and herons stalked 
along the edges of the lagoon, solemn and dignified. 
Some ducks floated about near the other shore, and 
a couple of queer old pelicans that had found their 
way inland were sailing along with outstretched 
wings close to the water line, ready to settle where 
the prospect seemed inviting. 

The surface of the lagoon was dancing with the 
cool north breeze, and the little wavelets lapped the 
sides of the canoes as they rocked upon the bosom 
of the water. 

Archie loved to sit in the boat and look out upon 
the dimpled surface of the water, either with the sun 
or moon shining upon it. He was passionately fond 
of the water in its more peaceful shades. 

“Fleet ahoy, here!” he called out. 

“Overslept ourselves for once,” said Dick as his 
head came into view. 

The captain had been up once with the fire, and 
all it needed was a little wood thrown among the em- 
bers, when the flames sprung up again. 

Soon the coffee was boiling, the fish frying, and 
the bacon done to a turn. 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 273 

‘‘All hands on deck to jettison cargo/’ called the 
captain, who was master of ceremonies. 

They found their appetites still held good, and 
after each day their united cargo really did show an 
appreciable loss in bulk. 

The course was now back for a mile, with the wind 
about over the larboard rail. Then the cross-pas- 
sage was entered with a fair wind at first. 

After a time it grew so tortuous that they were 
unable to sail at all, and presently even the masts 
had to be unstepped and stowed away, so low hung 
the gnarled branches of the trees forming the 
islands. 

By noon they were having a tough time, for the 
creek had become so shallow, though wide, that they 
even stuck upon the mud at times and had hard 
work getting on. 

At a quarter-past three Archie, who chanced at 
the time to be in the lead — they had all held that 
position half a dozen times during the day as one or 
the other got stuck in the mud and fell behind — gave 
utterance to a whoop and waved his paddle. 

This excited the others, and a scramble was the 
result to join him. 


274 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 


They found that his discovery was of the utmost 
importance, for he had come to where the shallow 
passage which they had been following debouched 
into another running in the true direction. 

This latter was deep, and Ned thrilled with the 
declaration that it had a positive current coming 
from the northwest. 

When they lay to for the night they felt that the 
right stream had been struck at last, and that they 
were on the way to the lake now without a doubt. 

This cheered them. 

That night the green islands about them echoed 
with their songs. They had left the Everglades, 
and the water was no longer green with the grass 
that grew beneath. 

Never would they forget that sight — it was like 
looking out upon some great savannah or prairie, 
and yet all of the grass, dotted with flowers, grew in 
several feet of water with narrow passages between. 
Then there was the islands, some of them timbered, 
with birds singing in the trees, and beyond perhaps 
a stretch of open water like a lake, dimpled in the 
gentle breeze. 

This was the home of the Seminoles. 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 275 

On the following morning the cruisers were once 
more en route. 

They had done much ‘^tracking,” but had made 
no portage since they were a few miles up the 
Miami River at a rapids known as the Falls, where 
it had been deemed expedient to carry around, 
though, had they been coming down, they would 
have possibly shot the rapids. 

All eyes were now on the watch for signs of the 
great lake ahead. 

At four o’clock they were breasting quite a cur- 
rent, and from the indications around them believed 
their destination could not be far away. 

*‘The lake lies beyond that point, boys,” an- 
nounced the captain, shortly. 

The others said nothing, but a short time later a 
cheer broke from them as they realized that this was 
so. 

Rounding the point they discovered a vast, soli- 
tary sheet of water that stretched away as far as the 
eye could rest. 

Okeechobee was before them ! 

It appeared a strange body of water. Seen as the 
sun was about sinking put of sight, there was some- 


276 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

thing so solemn and desolate about it that the cruis- 
ers were appalled. 

Few signs of life appeared here. 

They missed the rush of the mullet, the roar of the 
surf, and all the accompaniments of their trip down 
the Indian River. 

A fishhawk circled in the blue ether above — or 
perhaps an eagle — a crane standing like a sentry in 
the shallow water near by — perhaps an alligator 
sunning himself on a log near the brink — these were 
all the signs of life around. 

The trees overhanging the water were draped 
with great festoons of Spanish moss, giving a weird 
aspect to the scene. 

‘‘Alabama — here we rest,” said Ned. 

“Yes, it would never do to venture out on that 
sheet of water at this time. We may have to pass 
around it yet. That is a question to be decided to- 
night,” put in Dick. 

They paddled along until they came to a place 
where a fire could be started, and there halted for 
the night. 

At the consultation after supper it was decided to 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 277 

wait until morning before settling their course. 
Much would depend upon how the day turned out. 

If it was squally or the wind against them, they 
could not dream of heading for the west, but would 
begin their trip up the shore of the lake, hoping to 
reach the mouth of the Kissimee River by the end 
of the second day. 

Then changing their course to southwest, they 
would coast along until they found the beginning of 
the great Disston Canal, that had lowered the waters 
of Okeechobee perceptibly and drained millions of 
acres of land that at one time had always been over- 
flowed during the wet season of the year. 

If the lake looked solitary and grewsome with the 
shades of night settling upon it, the woods toward 
the east were lively enough. 

They heard more than the usual chorus of sounds 
proceeding thence. Panther cries were wafted to 
their ears at intervals, and what, with the hooting of 
owls, screams of foraging wildcats, and all the other 
sounds incident to a night in the wilds, there was no 
sense of loneliness there. 

Archie did not sleep well. 

He was glad that they were no longer lost in the 


278 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

Everglades, but there was also an uncertainty about 
their future course that broke him up. 

As usual, he was the first to awaken, and soon had 
the others up. 

'‘Wind from the west and squally !’’ 

That settled it. 

They must head for the mouth of the Kissimee 
River, and keep within a reasonable distance of the 
shore. 

There was quite a little sea, and the boats had a 
wet time of it, but they made progress, and through- 
out the livelong day kept on for the north. 

When evening drew near they looked for a camp- 
ing spot. 

One and all of the cruisers were weary of the day’s 
work, and glad of a chance to stretch their limbs. 
Good progress had been made, and Ned declared 
that another day like this would take them to the 
Kissimee. 

They cooked supper around the camp-fire, and 
enjoyed it just as much as on the first night out. 

On the following morning the wind was from the 
south, but having started upon the trip around, they 
wanted to keep it up now. 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 279 

This fair wind wafted them on with fine success, 
the sails doing great execution. That night they 
were at the mouth of the Kissimee River, but slept 
aboard their boats, deeming it more advisable. 

Here they met an old fellow upon a peculiar flat- 
boat. He was a hunter. Alligator Ferguson by 
name, and had a great many saurian skins on board 
the home-made craft, which he was about to take up 
to Kissimee City. 

They had a good deal of fun with him during the 
evening, as he was a comical old genius. Archie 
had anchored beyond him, but the south wind 
wafted such a strong scent to his nostrils, coming 
from the alligator-hunter’s boat, that he was obliged 
to change his anchorage and haul around more to 
windward. 

Lying there in his canoe and smoking his pipe, 
Archie allowed his mind to run back over the whole 
trip, beginning with the launch upon Tomoka Creek. 

His mind lingered more fondly upon certain 
points than others. The brightest feature was of 
Eden and its genial proprietor. Captain Richards, 
with his smiling face and joking ways. 

From one point to another his thoughts flitted, 


28 o Paddling Under Palmettos. 

like a bee passing from one flower to the next, sup- 
ping the sweets. Gradually there came confusion, 
and Archie had fallen asleep. 

He awoke at midnight and, as usual, took an ob- 
servation. The sky was clear and the wind balmy 
from the south. 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 


281 


CHAPTER XXIII. 

GOOD-BY TO THE CRUISERS. 

Merrily they pushed on during the early part of 
the day, but it did not come so nicely later, when the 
strong south breeze slapped the water against their 
bows, and sprinkled them generously with the spray. 

They were veterans at this work, and kept on with 
long and short legs until three in the afternoon, 
when Ned blew a blast upon his fog horn to indicate 
that he had discovered a suitable spot for camping. 

In half an hour all of them had gathered in the 
little cove, where they were sheltered from the south 
breeze. 

The wind died down during the night, so that when 
morning came they found the lake in a dead calm. 
Accordingly they rolled up the sleeves of their flan- 
nel shirts, opened the collars to bare their chests, 
and then seizing the double blades began to cleave 
the waters of Okeechobee for the last time. 

Up to noon they had seen nothing of the opening. 


282 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

when they halted to brew a pot of coffee and rest for 
a while. 

“Fellows, as I live I believe there’s a breeze coni' 
ing,” said Archie. 

“West?” asked Dick, anxiously. 

“Yes.” 

“I thought as much. Clouds have been hanging 
in that quarter for some time.” 

Sure enough, in ten minutes the water was dim- 
pled with a fresh breeze from the land. Close up it 
seemed still, but a hundred yards from shore the 
tiny wavelets began. 

“Aboard with you! There’s a storm coming by 
night, and we had better be safe in camp at that 
time.” 

Ned’s words struck them all favorably, and soon 
the white wings of the mosquito fleet were spread to 
the gentle breeze. 

At last they sighted the mouth of the canal. It 
was a welcome sight. They ran in and came to an- 
chor close to the bank. 

The storm was a delusion and a snare. It passed 
off with but little rain, and left the wind in the north. 

The canoeists sp it their last night on Okeechobee 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 283 

peacefully. They were only aroused once, and this 
by Archie, who vowed an alligator was trying to 
climb into his boat, but the others laughed at him, 
declaring that he must have been dreaming. 

In the morning they were ready to start into the 
canal. 

Paddles now came into play. This would last 
about all the time until they reached the ’Hatchee 
River above Fort Myers, when once more the sails 
might be rendered available. 

They had to camp in the canal, something that 
was particularly unsatisfactory, for it was alive with 
yellow water-moccasins, and had disagreeable 
swampy borders. 

Ned’s voice rang out through the cut and amid 
the dim aisles of the swamp as he told of “the tar 
who had sailed away.” 

The captain, too, related some of his experiences 
in the of adventure by field and flood, so that, 
taken all in all, the evening passed pleasantly 
enough, despite the fact that they missed the cheery 
glow of a camp-fire. 

Tents were buttoned down very closely that night, 
for there was a haunting fear lest some of the nu- 


284 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

merous moccasins might try to force an entrance, 
and such unwelcome visitors were not to be toler- 
ated. 

All of them were glad when morning came, so that 
they might proceed. 

An early start was made, and they were glad when 
a little lake opened before their eyes. 

Upon this body of water they ate lunch and 
camped at the farther side, in order to avoid spend- 
ing another night in the canal. 

During the next day they made the second lake, 
and again found a camping spot upon the shore. 

They were now ready to descend from the head- 
waters of the Caloosahatchee River to the gulf, hav- 
ing met some men with a dredge in the canal, and 
learned all that was necessary from them. 

'‘Here’s our last camp-fire in the heart of Flor- 
ida,” said Ned, a little dejected, as they sat around 
the cheery blaze that night. 

“Then you think we will reach Fort Myers to- 
morrow?” asked Archie. 

“We’ll make a big try for it.” 

“That means an early start ?” 

“Yes.” 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 285 

‘^All right, ril wake you up.’’ 

Archie was as good as his word, for while the gray 
dawn was still battling with the shadows of the flee- 
ing night the camp was aroused by a terrific and un- 
earthly noise, as if Gabriel and his trump of doom 
had suddenly come upon the scene. It was only 
Archie leaning out of his boat and tooting upon his 
old fish horn. 

All was soon astir, and the grateful incense of 
coffee ascended from the fire. When it had boiled 
up twice and been dashed with a little cold water, it 
was set aside to settle. 

Having started, they paddled for some time until 
the stream became wider. Then the sails went up 
with a hurrah, the wind being fair. 

How grateful it was to glide along without mus- 
cular exertion. The breeze became stronger, and 
soon they were speeding on toward their goal. 

The scenery for a time was just about what they 
had been expecting for days past, as the river was 
narrow and the banks inclined to be marshy. 

Further down it would open wide and present a 
grander view. 


286 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

They passed Fort Thompson on the run, and were 
saluted with handkerchiefs. 

At another time they might have enjoyed stop- 
ping and spending some time at this historical spot, 
famous during Osceola’s time, but just now they 
were anxious to reach Myers. 

Some miles below they met a miniature steamer, 
the Spitfire, ascending the river to Fort Thompson. 

There was a party of excursionists aboard, and 
they cheered the canoe fleet as long as the boats 
could be seen. A tongue of land shut them out of 
sight, but the cruisers were feeling good at thus 
meeting their fellow men again. Strange, indeed, 
how glad we are to see mankind after rushing off for 
a pilgrimage to the forest in order to be away from 
the world. 

Late in the afternoon the river widened until it 
presented a majestic breadth indeed, being some 
miles from shore to shore. 

This was an indication that they were nearing the 
beautiful little settlement of which they had heard 
and read so much. 

Presently they sighted it. 

The sun was low in the west, and only for th6 


Paddling Under Palmettos. 287 

breeze favoring them so, they would never have been 
able to have made their port. 

At Fort Myers they landed and were joyfully re- 
ceived by friends who had long awaited their com- 
ing. 

The great cruise from the Halifax River to the 
gulf had now become an accomplished fact, for they 
were once more upon tide water, although still 
twenty miles from the gulf itself. 

Fort Myers was at that time a pleasant little vil- 
lage, and boasted of stores and churches such as 
were then to be found in no other South Florida 
town. 

It had not a thousand souls in its borders, all told, 
but being the winter home of a number of wealthy 
men, such as the cattle-kings of the Florida savan- 
nahs, Thomas Edison, the inventor, and others, the 
place seemed like an oasis in the desert to our weary 
cruisers. 

Green grass was to be seen here, pretty gardens 
abounded, and all manner of tropical fruit trees 
could be found. 

Our friends made themselves at home at once, for 
they intended spending a week here at any rate, en- 


288 Paddling Under Palmettos. 

joying themselves. During that time they could 
make up their minds as to their future course. 

A steamer would take themselves and their boats 
to Tampa or Cedar Keys in case they decided so to 
travel, while on the other hand, if the votes counted 
in favor of keeping on, a wonderful cruise in these 
small boats lay before them. 

At any rate, be the decision what it might, we 
have accompanied them safely down the east coast 
and across the heart of Florida, making a trip that 
would stand alone in the annals of Florida canoeing, 
and bring them honor among their fellows of the 
A. C. A. 

Their long cruise had been filled with stirring in- 
cidents that would never be forgotten, and many a 
time while seated around the glowing fire up North, 
Archie and his fellow canoeists would, in imagina- 
tion, live over again the scenes through which they 
had passed while paddling under the palmettos. 


THE END. 

















